Mopar LCA swap

[Jeep&dogs]

What was caster before and after please?

No clue, never measured it.

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[Yellafella]

Have been reading this older thread, but not all of it. Looking at putting the 2020 Rubicon suspension on a 2018 JL sport with 2020 Gladiator Rubicon wheels and tires. Will the Mopar lift LCA’s fit with no issues?

 

[blnewt]

Have been reading this older thread, but not all of it. Looking at putting the 2020 Rubicon suspension on a 2018 JL sport with 2020 Gladiator Rubicon wheels and tires. Will the Mopar lift LCA’s fit with no issues?

Yes, fits just fine, no issues

 

[Yellafella]

Yes, fits just fine, no issues

Thank you! Already ordered.

 

[Amaruq]

Ok serious question, as I’m about to do this swap today.
do I need to go rent some ramps from Walmart or can I do without? I’m of the lean, athletic build variety, so no giant beer belly to worry about getting stuck on a crossmember. I also have a breaker bar.
no jack stands needed, right?

 

[Htfan]

Ok serious question, as I’m about to do this swap today.
do I need to go rent some ramps from Walmart or can I do without? I’m of the lean, athletic build variety, so no giant beer belly to worry about getting stuck on a crossmember. I also have a breaker bar.
no jack stands needed, right?

Couple additional things to consider before you start.

1) The new Mopar LCA's are 0.25" longer so you need something to help move the axle forward (ratchet straps etc.)

2) the bolts for the new LCA's require 190lbs of torque. So think about what you need - torque wrench, room to get leverage for that much torque etc.

 

[blnewt]

Ok serious question, as I’m about to do this swap today.
do I need to go rent some ramps from Walmart or can I do without? I’m of the lean, athletic build variety, so no giant beer belly to worry about getting stuck on a crossmember. I also have a breaker bar.
no jack stands needed, right?

Here's my install post. I would recommend ramps, and w/ the ramps it seemed to load the suspension just right, I didn't need to do any moving of the axles or other parts, the new LCAs just slid right in.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-suspension-on-2-door-sport.40700/#post-919317

 

[Htfan]

Here's my install post. I would recommend ramps, and w/ the ramps it seemed to load the suspension just right, I didn't need to do any moving of the axles or other parts, the new LCAs just slid right in.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-suspension-on-2-door-sport.40700/#post-919317

I didn't use ramps so probably why I needed something else to move the axle forward. The ramps also helped you with the additional room you needed for getting the bolts torqued.

 

[Amaruq]

Here's my install post. I would recommend ramps, and w/ the ramps it seemed to load the suspension just right, I didn't need to do any moving of the axles or other parts, the new LCAs just slid right in.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-suspension-on-2-door-sport.40700/#post-919317

I’ve been reading over this a few times before I begin. It was also suggest elsewhere to loosen and tighten at ride height - so before pulling up the ramps? Or just back down to the ground when tightening? Thanks!

 

[blnewt]

I’ve been reading over this a few times before I begin. It was also suggest elsewhere to loosen and tighten at ride height - so before pulling up the ramps? Or just back down to the ground when tightening? Thanks!

You just want to be sure to tighten to spec with the suspension loaded, I just torqued them down on the ramps. Just don't want to have the Jeep suspension decompressed when torquing down.

 

[eck]

Ok serious question, as I’m about to do this swap today.
do I need to go rent some ramps from Walmart or can I do without? I’m of the lean, athletic build variety, so no giant beer belly to worry about getting stuck on a crossmember. I also have a breaker bar.
no jack stands needed, right?

I did mine on flat ground with the stock 32" tires, and it was really damn difficult to get enough leverage with the torque wrench. I actually used the floor jack on the end of the torque wrench at one point to finish torquing, and that did the job quite well.

Later after adding 35s I went around and re-torqued everything. I had no problem just doing it by hand with the 35s. The extra space made a huge difference.

 

[Swagger]

I just did this swap on a stock 2018 jlur. Definitely the ramps helped with making room to work with breaker bars and torque wrenches. Also needed a floor jack to lift the frame away from the axle to line up the holes with the new LCAs to get the bolts through. Most frustrating was the rear bolt on the drivers side. Exhaust gets in the way so only a box wrench could get on the nut. Could not break it loose with all my strength. Resorted to buying a high torque impact wrench and using it on the bolt side. After about a minute of hammering, the box wrench on the nut side finally started moving and I knew I got it. Highly recommend the impact wrench. Would not have got it loose without it.

 

[Friday2322]

I just did this swap on mine and after a short drive I can say I can feel a difference. It's worth the hour of time to do the install and the $60.

 

[Amaruq]

Just got done. Took about an hour an half taking my time and looking for a ratchet strap from a neighbor. Used ramps, still wasn’t lined up. Oh well.
Loosening was harder than I thought. Torquing wasn’t too bad once you got the right leverage. Thanks for the write ups @blnewt

 

[limeade]

Instead of using a ratchet strap to line up the new arms with the mounts, use a floor jack under the axle on the side you're working on. Usually it takes a little bit of lowering the jack to get the holes to align. I start the LCA removal process by having the axle on jack stands (for tire/wheel removal) and then removing the stand on the side I'm working on and replace it with my floor jack so I can manipulate the axle for LCA installation.

Since the upper arms are still attached, the axle will move in an arc (up and down) and the movement of the floor jack allows the axle to move naturally for easy hole alignment. Typically, as you let the jack down so the (axle moves downward), this lengthens the distance between the control arm and axle mount, which is what you want when installing longer LCA's. When you use a ratchet strap, you're fighting against the bushings and track bar in a linear fashion and the axle doesn't want to move like that since the TB is still attached.

Now when you do track bar replacements, a ratchet strap is the perfect device to use to get the TB aligned with the axle mount (assuming you attach the TB at the frame end first). This is due the TB being use to locate the axle laterally (side to side) and you aren't fighting against the suspension.

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