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MOPAR Hood Lock Kit Assembly Notes and Photos

Mad Hatter

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I started the thread
"***Mopar Hood Lock Kit Update*** - SHIPPING NOTICE!!!!!!!!!! (Good News/Bad News Update Page 4)"

in General Discussions. However, due to their more technical nature, I will post my Assembly Notes and Photos here in DIY Write-Ups and Videos.



Photos of various stages of assembly
Installation Notes for MOPAR Hood Lock

  • Quadratec’s video for the JL Ignition Key Locking Gas Cap was absolutely invaluable; I’m so impressed I’m going to buy one to replace my separate-key-locking gas cap. From them, too, in thanks!

  • The MOPAR Hood Lock Kit lock cylinder has 7 tumblers vs. the 4 in the gas cap, 4 on top and 3 on the bottom. This means more care to not drop the tumblers underneath when “filling” the top set.

  • For simplicity, I identified the correct tumbler insert, one tumbler at a time, then filled the cylinder when done. For safety from sneezing, etc., I kept only one of each tumbler and one spring out of its bag during this identification process. Per Quadratec’s advice, I wrote the code down on my work surface sheet of paper.

  • MOPAR does supply extras—there are 10 springs for 7 tumblers, and 5 tumbler inserts of each of the 8 types—maximum needed is 4, in the upper bank of 4 inserts. A, B, C, D, each in Left and Right. When removing one spring with needle-point tweezers, it sprung/leapt onto the floor. It is so tiny and so light, a small—really small—spiderweb caught it before hitting the floor!

  • There is a top and a bottom to the lock cylinder. It will fit flush in the lock cylinder housing only one way. The Lock cylinder housing also has a top and a bottom. The open set of tumblers will be on the bottom, presumably for drainage of water.
  • You have to crimp the stainless steel lock cylinder cover on to the cylinder by bending 4 tabs over the rim. I realized quickly that you have to put a magazine or catalog or similar under your pliers' jaws on the exposed side to avoid marring the polished surface. I'll add a picture of the cylinder lock front in the stream below. (This paragraph was added after the original post.)
  • There was dried red Loctite in both the lock cylinder nut and the nut that attaches to the end of the lock cylinder. As a result, it was a b-b-b-bear (now talk nicely, son) to start the threads, especially on the end nut. That pot metal threading of the lock cylinder cross-threads oh so easy!
  • Regrettably I didn't take any pictures last evening of the unassembled lock mechanism before I riveted it shut, but the lighting wasn't great. But you can get the gist from the detailed Installation Instructions, attached at the bottom of this post.
  • The push pins at the top of the grill appear to be intended for one-use only. The instructions say to discard the old push pins, and the new ones seem identical. (Why are these so @#$%& expensive, regardless of the auto maker?)

  • The grill took much more force pulling out of its catches than I anticipated. Even Rob in the Quadratec Grill Removal video jumped at release. At least, the grill snapped back into place much easier during final reinstallation.

  • The other difficulty was in unhooking the six catches that hold the center grill insert to the outer grill housing. They were another b-b-b-bear (again, talk nicely, son) to open until I figured it out. The solution: Taking a panel removal tool, push down on the rectangular keeper behind the “hook” that protrudes from the outer grill through the grill insert. It flexes enough to push the hook back. But a real b-b-b-bear (I really want to use another word!) to figure out. Pictures attached with the others.

  • I bought a new riveter, push pin pliers, and body panel removal tools for this project. Used all three.

  • The Mopar hood lock works properly, as described in the General Discussions thread.



I will note that I did not pay the current astronomical price shown on several websites. I ordered the MOPAR Hood Lock Kit in August, 2018. The distributor, MoparOnlineParts.com, charged my credit card at that time. While this isn’t the friendliest practice, my other order was shipped immediately, and I had no reason to believe I would have to wait 50 weeks. So I didn’t squawk. To their credit, MoparOnlineParts.com DID NOT RAISE THE PRICE to its current, significantly-higher level. So I am happy with the result!



Bolt’s FINALLY showing up on another distributor website may be a harbinger of some price adjusting on this type of product. I have a Bolt ignition key lock for my hitch receiver, and it was easy as pie to key the lock. The MOPAR Hood Lock wasn’t anywhere as easy, as I essentially had to factory assemble the lock itself. But at least I now understand the design of the newer-generation keys that have a shaped groove on one or both sides!



I hope this helps anyone considering a Hood Lock, regardless of manufacture!



MH



1 Lock Mechanism Front.jpg
2 Lock Mechanism Rear.jpg
3 Lock Mechanism Top Unlocked.jpg
4 Lock Mechanism Top Locked.jpg
5 Grill Insert Front.jpg
6 Grill Insert Back.jpg
7 Bear Tab Closeup.jpg
8 Bear Tab Solution.jpg
9 Bear Tab Solution 2.jpg
10 Finished Grill Off.jpg
11 Finished Closeup Grill Off.jpg
12 Top View Locked Grill Off.jpg
13 Top View Unlocked Grill Off.jpg
14 Top View Finished Grill On.jpg
15 Front Finished Closeup.jpg
15.5 Lock Cylinder Cover Open.jpg
16 Front Finished.jpg
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Hudson

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Why does the Mopar kit need to be manually keyed when the identical Bolt kit (Bolt also makes the OEM Mopar kit) doesn’t require you to manually key via monkeying with the tumblers? I just inserted my jeep key, twisted it to the right, then left, and voila. Instantly keyed.
 

Deke

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Why does the Mopar kit need to be manually keyed when the identical Bolt kit (Bolt also makes the OEM Mopar kit) doesn’t require you to manually key via monkeying with the tumblers? I just inserted my jeep key, twisted it to the right, then left, and voila. Instantly keyed.
Because FCA knows you won't pay a dealer an hour of shop time if you just have to twist a key.
 

DrewHaha

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Thank you for the detailed help! Just got the Mopar Hood Lock and your post was very helpful!
 

Robellion

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Not sure if anyone is still reading this thread, but I also started installing the lock set, and in step #5 when tightening the nut (K) to the cylinder assembly (A) with a torque wrench, the cylinder snapped in half! Upon further inspection I figured out that when tightening that nut, one should have the key inserted into the lock to add additional stability when torquing.
After taking it all apart to examine the break point, I can see there is very little metal mass there. It also destroyed three pins. In the end I contacted Quadratec to see if they can order me a new cylinder assembly. Just be aware of this critical step in the instructions, be easy on the tightening and insert the key to add additional pressure while tightening!
 

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Morrepe

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These instructions were super helpful. Just did the gas cap and the hood lock for my new 2023 JL. I skipped the torquing because my torque wrench is too big for these small numbers. I suspect I’ll be fine. If not, I’ll figure it out. I also suspect doing it right after delivery made taking the grill off easier since all the plastic fittings are still very supple. Could have reused them but didn’t. Thanks for all the info.
 

Garri

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I have a question, actually two.
In the instructions, I don't see the lock pin that I see in the Quadratec video (the pin that blocks all the push pins once positioned). Maybe it's unnecessary because they get blocked by inserting the lock cylinder into the housing. Can you clarify this for me?

Another question: Do you have to crimp the stainless steel lock cylinder cover onto the cylinder before installing the push pins? Or at last?
 

IntegraRC

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I have a question, actually two.
In the instructions, I don't see the lock pin that I see in the Quadratec video (the pin that blocks all the push pins once positioned). Maybe it's unnecessary because they get blocked by inserting the lock cylinder into the housing. Can you clarify this for me?

Another question: Do you have to crimp the stainless steel lock cylinder cover onto the cylinder before installing the push pins? Or at last?
I’m halfway through the install and I noticed the same thing you did. It doesn’t appear like it’s necessary because once you tighten the nut on the backside, it keeps the cylinder in place.
 

Garri

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It makes sense. What about the cylinder cover? Did you install it before proceeding with the pins?
 

IntegraRC

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Edit: I was wrong originally. I edited the post to be correct.

You can do the keyhole cover either way. It won’t interfere with the pin install. But you’ll need to wait to do the larger cylinder cover after inserting the the cylinder into the housing. Obviously, you’ll need to finish the pins before inserting into the housing.
 
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Garri

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Thank you, guys. I installed mine! Key coding was tricky but straightforward. I used the Quadratec video as a guide. You must note that the seven pins start from the side with 4. So when you have the cylinder with the three pins side up, that is the number two.

Jeep Wrangler JL MOPAR Hood Lock Kit Assembly Notes and Photos IMG_4583.JPG


Moreover, as you can see, the upper springs are on the opposite side regarding the instruction drawn.

Before coding the key, I installed his guide:

Jeep Wrangler JL MOPAR Hood Lock Kit Assembly Notes and Photos IMG_4581.JPG


I inserted the provided springs inside the holes and pushed the metal guide on site. So simple.

After the coding procedure, keeping the car key inserted, holding the pins flush, grease and inserting the cylinder in the housing is advisable. Fortunately, Mopar gives you two more springs in case of loss or damage.

To Keep the cylinder and the springs in site, it is necessary to crimp the cover. I used a screwdriver and a soft carpet. You have to press hard.

Jeep Wrangler JL MOPAR Hood Lock Kit Assembly Notes and Photos IMG_4592.JPG


Finally, I installed all the hardware. I bought a new rivet gun because the rivet is 6 mm, and it is necessary to have a professional pop rivet gun to do the right things.
In my kit, I found a plastic piece to cover the housing. I riveted it. That's the result:

Jeep Wrangler JL MOPAR Hood Lock Kit Assembly Notes and Photos IMG_4596.JPG


And that's all.
Thank you for your advice and tips. I hope I have helped to clear some more doubts about the installation process of this useful accessory. :like:

Jeep Wrangler JL MOPAR Hood Lock Kit Assembly Notes and Photos IMG_4598.JPG
 
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Dyolfknip74

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Not sure why anyone would buy the Mopar when the Bolt is so much easier to configure and is literally the exact same in every other way except ease of keying. It's probably cheaper as well.
 

Garri

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I am a lover of details. In the Mopar kit, the central part of the grille that needs to be replaced combines perfectly (I read that the Bolt colour is not precisely the same). Also, I wouldn't say I like the plastic lid of the Bolt. It may seem like a detail, but it's not in my eyes. I also like the challenges, and the key coding seemed rewarding.
From a price point of view, I can only agree with you.
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