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Mopar 2” lift or something else?

OnlyOne

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Avoid the factory rear steel bumper like the plague. It is complete garbage and will damage your tub.
100% truth. I don’t even run one anymore.
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WAOLIFE

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Well right now on eBay I can get the mopar kit for about $1000 to $1100
FYI, If you buy a Mopar Lift from Ebay, even if it is from a dealership, Mopar will NOT honor the warranty.
 
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xtimesofgrace

xtimesofgrace

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Here’s a pic of mopar lift on 4 doors so not apples to apples comparison but gray Jeep is running factory 33s for now (waiting on wheels and tires to ship) and mine (orange) has 37s. Gladiator is a sport with 2 inch spacer lift and 35s.

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What spacer lift is on the gladiator? I also considered doing a spacer lift that had the factory shock relocation brackets but I was told to avoid those.
 
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xtimesofgrace

xtimesofgrace

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Updating the driveshaft really depends on how you're going to use the vehicle. While we always suggest upgrading your driveshaft with any lift, it really becomes necessary when you get to about 3.5" of lift or more, or even 2.5" if you're going to be wheeling it a lot and flexing the springs out. The factory driveshaft really takes a beating while at max articulation on any size lift, however if you're really not going to be doing anything hardcore with your Jeep, and plan on running under 3" of lift, you can probably get away with holding off on upgrading your driveshaft for a while. The Mopar springs are great btw, of course because they are Mopar, but the one thing you see time and time again even on this forum is that a lot of people lose that factory feel of the vehicle due to the lack of adjustable control arms and track bars in their kits. In our opinion, no matter what size life you go with you always want high quality adjustable control arms and track bars in order to re-set your angles and geometry especially if you want to keep that factory feel.
I’ll be doing easy to medium off-roading. I don’t see myself doing any kind of super crazy trails or rock crawling. I don’t mind the occasional tough spot on a trail but it won’t be max flexing all the time lol
 

Jerrybizzle

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What spacer lift is on the gladiator? I also considered doing a spacer lift that had the factory shock relocation brackets but I was told to avoid those.
Just a basic spacer kit from les Schwab. Literally any spacer kit with shock extensions and sway bar end links would do. He’s happy with it and he hammers the shit out of it. No extreme rock crawling but he uses it that’s for sure. If you like the ride now it’s the same with the spacer kit.
As you can see his is by far the dirtiest as I don’t like cleaning mud. I love off roading but cleaning mud sucks. I’ll still go where the trail takes me but don’t seek out mud.

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Jerrybizzle

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What spacer lift is on the gladiator? I also considered doing a spacer lift that had the factory shock relocation brackets but I was told to avoid those.
I had the rough country spacer lift for 3000 miles and it worked great. Even went to Moab with it on. Just wanted a “real” lift so upgraded to the mopar lift. I would recommend it, I did add front adjustable track bar.
 
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xtimesofgrace

xtimesofgrace

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Just a basic spacer kit from les Schwab. Literally any spacer kit with shock extensions and sway bar end links would do. He’s happy with it and he hammers the shit out of it. No extreme rock crawling but he uses it that’s for sure. If you like the ride now it’s the same with the spacer kit.
As you can see his is by far the dirtiest as I don’t like cleaning mud. I love off roading but cleaning mud sucks. I’ll still go where the trail takes me but don’t seek out mud.

002CA209-2232-439B-A952-11674FD79CD9.jpeg


DB6FAA28-45F6-4A7E-A527-57A3777D329F.jpeg


D1654B28-2373-4A21-B22B-0927F6E47292.jpeg
Yea you sound a loooot like me. Nothing too crazy. I was definitely considering the rough country spacer lift especially for their price.
 

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I had the rough country spacer lift for 3000 miles and it worked great. Even went to Moab with it on. Just wanted a “real” lift so upgraded to the mopar lift. I would recommend it, I did add front adjustable track bar.
I have the Rough country 2.5" spacer lift with the N3 shocks also and it works very well. Last time out I was doing blacks at Rausch Creek. I also wanted a "real" lift lol. so this weekend I am installing a Metalcloak lift. I would be running the spacer lift longer but metalcloak kept having sales recently that I didn't want to pass up.
 
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xtimesofgrace

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Do you guys think the mopar 2” lift is worth $1,495? Dealership just quoted me that price. I’ll instal it myself.
 

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If you are going to do yourself, could even start off with rubi take off suspension on the cheap and see it fits your need
 

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AnnDee4444

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You won’t have any problem with driveshaft, usually 3.5” and higher is when you think about changing driveshaft. It depends on the the extended length of the shocks. The only 2.5” lift that you might want to change driveshaft is metal cloak, as they use the same length shock for 2.5 and 3.5” lifts, and have the longest extended length shocks out there.
From what I have read, a front driveshaft is needed when the extended shock length is around 28"-29" or more.
 
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xtimesofgrace

xtimesofgrace

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If you are going to do yourself, could even start off with rubi take off suspension on the cheap and see it fits your need
I thought about that for sure. I have the rubicon shocks I just don’t have the springs, control armor, or sway bar links. I was also wondering if I could leave my stock springs on, get the rough country 2.5” lift kit and instead of using the shock relocation brackets I could use the rubicon shocks I have. I’d just be adding the spacers from the kit as well as the sway bar links. I’m not sure how that would work out tho.
 

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I thought about that for sure. I have the rubicon shocks I just don’t have the springs, control armor, or sway bar links. I was also wondering if I could leave my stock springs on, get the rough country 2.5” lift kit and instead of using the shock relocation brackets I could use the rubicon shocks I have. I’d just be adding the spacers from the kit as well as the sway bar links. I’m not sure how that would work out tho.
If you’re going to do the work, might as well buy what you want. If you already have the Rubi shocks, I would start with the synergy stage one kit or the RC spacer kit.
 
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xtimesofgrace

xtimesofgrace

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If you’re going to do the work, might as well buy what you want. If you already have the Rubi shocks, I would start with the synergy stage one kit or the RC spacer kit.
I forgot to mention I have the rubicon shocks but they’re not installed because I didn’t get the rest of the parts with them. Just the shocks alone.
 

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I thought about that for sure. I have the rubicon shocks I just don’t have the springs, control armor, or sway bar links. I was also wondering if I could leave my stock springs on, get the rough country 2.5” lift kit and instead of using the shock relocation brackets I could use the rubicon shocks I have. I’d just be adding the spacers from the kit as well as the sway bar links. I’m not sure how that would work out tho.
I know for sure that the rubicon control arms are the same length as your control arms. From what I have read on here the sway bar links are the same length also.
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