Thank you! Modern 4-cyl turbo engines are definitely capable of putting down some power. I'm interested to see how the Hurricane internals fair once people start tuning and heavily modifying them. I actually had an 02 WRX that was making about half of what yours makes and it was pretty fun; wish I would have kept it and built it up a bit moreYour team is amazing. Picking up our new 2019 JLU Rubicon tomorrow afternoon. Cant wait for the intake to be released and let that motor breath that much better. I think the 2.0L motor will be able to put down more power than the aftermarket turbo system for the 3.6L. I also have a 2005 Subaru STI with mods putting 402hp and 404tq to the wheels. I know it can be done.......
Thank you! More updates will be coming soon!Following. Thanks for all the hard work!
Yes it will! We'll be going over how in the next postWill this intake keep the water-fording capabilities of the stock intake?
Most boost gauges including the one I installed in my turbo diesel, come right off the intake manifold.Since you guys are pretty good with the turbos maybe you can help me out since I’m new to them. @Mishimoto
I really wanna add a boost guage but have no idea where to hook it up. Have you guys added one yet or know where to add one?
Can you elaborate on what these two vacuum ports are responsible for? I had a CEL pop up at ~500 miles, and found these two lines had been disconnected. I connected them after pulling the codes/resetting the codes, and everything seems fine. I'm hoping this resulted in nothing more than a little more pollution due to the EVAP tie-in and not actual problems with the vehicle. I'm guessing these two lines hadn't been properly connected, as they snapped firmly in place once I attached them. The Jeep had been running fine as far as I could tell, mileage hadn't been the best but it's a Jeep. I'm wondering if things will change a bit with those now firmly in place. They were completely removed and adjacent to the ports when I opened the hood.In the case of the Hurricane’s airbox, the upper lid includes vacuum ports for the turbo and fuel systems. No matter what we do with the airbox, we’ll have to incorporate these fittings.
We have not added a boost gauge yet, partly because there isn't a simple place to add one. We've been using the OBD data for boost pressure readings. With everything on this engine being electronically controlled, there aren't any boost reference hoses that can be easily teed into. Probably the easiest way on the stock system would be to drill and tap the intercooler pipe that goes from the turbo to the charge-air-cooler/intake manifold. It's pretty easy to remove; just two couplers on either end, so you could get in and make sure it's free from plastic shavings if you do drill and tap it. We'll also be working on something to make this easier in the future Unfortunately there are no obvious ports on the intake manifold, turbocharger or intercooler pipe that you can simply slip a boost gauge hose onto.Since you guys are pretty good with the turbos maybe you can help me out since I’m new to them. @Mishimoto
I really wanna add a boost guage but have no idea where to hook it up. Have you guys added one yet or know where to add one?
After going back and looking at the factory data again, I was actually mistaken about what one of the ports is for. Both are vacuum ports, but one is a vacuum source for the brake booster (wrong kind of boost ) and the other is for the EVAP system. I'll have to go back and fix that in my post Were your brakes very stiff until you connected the hose?Can you elaborate on what these two vacuum ports are responsible for? I had a CEL pop up at ~500 miles, and found these two lines had been disconnected. I connected them after pulling the codes/resetting the codes, and everything seems fine. I'm hoping this resulted in nothing more than a little more pollution due to the EVAP tie-in and not actual problems with the vehicle. I'm guessing these two lines hadn't been properly connected, as they snapped firmly in place once I attached them. The Jeep had been running fine as far as I could tell, mileage hadn't been the best but it's a Jeep. I'm wondering if things will change a bit with those now firmly in place. They were completely removed and adjacent to the ports when I opened the hood.
Fault codes:
B21E3 (Can't find any info on this code)
P1CEA (Best I can tell this is 'JEEP Boost Side EVAP Purge System Performance')
Here's a closer picture for those wondering what I'm referring to.
I'm looking very forward to your future intake development, it's exciting to see the detail you're going into on this thread - it's going to be useful for everyone, even those keeping the stock intake system. I very much appreciate your contribution to the community, and am excited to see how your intake turns out. A little intake noise would add something special to the 2.0!
No problem! The stock intercooler pipe wall is probably about 3mm thick - when we test on stock components, we often drill a little undersized and tap with an NPT. The NPT threads are self-sealing so they sort of tap themselves. There's a flat spot on the passenger side of the intercooler pipe that Alfa uses for a sensor, that spot is probably a little thicker and might work best.Thanks for the reply. I’m hoping someone comes out with a solution soon. I wouldn’t mind drilling and tapping but how thick is the plastic? The last thing I wanna do is screw something up on this brand new Jeep lol.
Well as soon as we get some warm weather I’m gonna have to take a look and see what I can do. I hate winter!!!No problem! The stock intercooler pipe wall is probably about 3mm thick - when we test on stock components, we often drill a little undersized and tap with an NPT. The NPT threads are self-sealing so they sort of tap themselves. There's a flat spot on the passenger side of the intercooler pipe that Alfa uses for a sensor, that spot is probably a little thicker and might work best.
Thanks,
-Steve
Kinda off topic but are you guys working a blow off valve for the 2.0? ThanksNo problem! The stock intercooler pipe wall is probably about 3mm thick - when we test on stock components, we often drill a little undersized and tap with an NPT. The NPT threads are self-sealing so they sort of tap themselves. There's a flat spot on the passenger side of the intercooler pipe that Alfa uses for a sensor, that spot is probably a little thicker and might work best.
Thanks,
-Steve
Thank you! We should have updates soon!Great tutorial, you guys are awesome -- I don't know why I hadn't seen this thread earlier.
I'm watching/subscribed!
I can't wait to see what you guys come up with!