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Milestar Patagonia M/T 37s vs. 38s

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After running my ‘19 Rubicon stock for almost 10k miles, I’m ready to do a lift, wheels and
tires.

I’m considering doing the following:
• Mopar 2” performance lift
• Method 701s
• Milestar Patagonia M/T 37s or 38s

From reading reviews and comments on here, the biggest difference in those tires is the load range rating (D vs C). Any insight on which way I should go? Are the above wheels/tires a good budget-friendly combination for solid on and off-road performance?
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Carlton

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After running my ‘19 Rubicon stock for almost 10k miles, I’m ready to do a lift, wheels and
tires.

I’m considering doing the following:
• Mopar 2” performance lift
• Method 701s
• Milestar Patagonia M/T 37s or 38s

From reading reviews and comments on here, the biggest difference in those tires is the load range rating (D vs C). Any insight on which way I should go? Are the above wheels/tires a good budget-friendly combination for solid on and off-road performance?
I've have the Patagonia in both C (38s) and D (40s) rated. The C rated tire does ride nicer on road.

The Patagonia is a road friendly tire. They are quiet and smooth. Both the 37 and 38 will fit fine with the Mopar lift. I currently have the 38s with Fuel Zephyr wheels (4.5 backspacing).
 
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a-lam

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I've have the Pataginia in both C (38s) and D (40s) rated. The C rated tire does ride nicer on road.

The Patagonia is a road friendly tire. They are quiet and smooth. Both the 37 and 38 will fit fine with the Mopar lift. I currently have the 38s with Fuel Zephyr wheels (4.5 backspacing).
Thanks for the insight! Did you have to re-gear for the 38s?
 

4LOWYO

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I have run both, on my Jeep with about 3” of lift. The wheels were different, but within about 1/4” of backspace. The 37” fit better for sure, had to do some trimming on the rear, and aftermarket inner fender liners to make the 38” clear.
 
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a-lam

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I have run both, on my Jeep with about 3” of lift. The wheels were different, but within about 1/4” of backspace. The 37” fit better for sure, had to do some trimming on the rear, and aftermarket inner fender liners to make the 38” clear.
Makes sense. Would you recommend the 37s over the 38s then?
 

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4LOWYO

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I would say on a 2” lift yes. The 37 on the left has about 8k miles 38 is new. That 1” height and width is a big difference.

67F95005-2842-481D-846A-1C9F004E1A8C.jpeg
 

Carlton

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Thanks for the insight! Did you have to re-gear for the 38s?
I did not have to regear. The only time that I feel a difference is driving 70MPH+. Not bad, but do notice it a bit. I rarely drive this fast, so not an issue for me.

With the JK having less gears, a regear was much more necessary. You would feel it at every stage. With the JL, that is not the case.
 

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Makes sense. Would you recommend the 37s over the 38s then?
I have to disagree with Carlton. I also have a 19 Rubicon. I first got 35” Patagonias. It was fine without regearing. I just went from 35 to 37 and I feel that it definitely needs a regear. I feel it at every speed. Acceleration is sluggish, the transmission holds gears for far too long, highway cruising is mostly 6th gear and sometimes 7th but never 8th. It’s not undriveable, but driving it is very different and not at all in a good way.
Here’s 35 vs 37.

6BF7224C-7C9C-4993-B91C-0069AA785CF7.jpeg


F180BE1F-FD9B-4E0E-A4BC-7E24E26321DE.jpeg
 

Carlton

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I have to disagree with Carlton. I also have a 19 Rubicon. I first got 35” Patagonias. It was fine without regearing. I just went from 35 to 37 and I feel that it definitely needs a regear. I feel it at every speed. Acceleration is sluggish, the transmission holds gears for far too long, highway cruising is mostly 6th gear and sometimes 7th but never 8th. It’s not undriveable, but driving it is very different and not at all in a good way.
Here’s 35 vs 37.

Jeep Wrangler JL Milestar Patagonia M/T 37s vs. 38s F180BE1F-FD9B-4E0E-A4BC-7E24E26321DE


Jeep Wrangler JL Milestar Patagonia M/T 37s vs. 38s F180BE1F-FD9B-4E0E-A4BC-7E24E26321DE
Did you reprogram with a Taser? Once programmed, my jeep drives fine. This is a Rubicon with the 3.6 for reference.
 

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I have to disagree with Carlton. I also have a 19 Rubicon. I first got 35” Patagonias. It was fine without regearing. I just went from 35 to 37 and I feel that it definitely needs a regear. I feel it at every speed. Acceleration is sluggish, the transmission holds gears for far too long, highway cruising is mostly 6th gear and sometimes 7th but never 8th. It’s not undriveable, but driving it is very different and not at all in a good way.
Here’s 35 vs 37.

Jeep Wrangler JL Milestar Patagonia M/T 37s vs. 38s F180BE1F-FD9B-4E0E-A4BC-7E24E26321DE


Jeep Wrangler JL Milestar Patagonia M/T 37s vs. 38s F180BE1F-FD9B-4E0E-A4BC-7E24E26321DE
Do you have a Tazer, or similar unit to change the tire sizes? What you described is exactly what I felt before readjusting my Tazer Mini. I'm on 38x13.5 pat's, over 4" of lift, and haven't felt any need to regear. It might take a bit longer to settle into 8th and it's quicker to pull a downshift to maintain up a grade, but it still feels peppy at all speeds. Maybe the 2.0's higher torque down low is helping things. Sorta like the 8-speed resisting a regear better than the manual, all else the same.
 

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Did you reprogram with a Taser? Once programmed, my jeep drives fine. This is a Rubicon with the 3.6 for reference.
Do you have a Tazer, or similar unit to change the tire sizes? What you described is exactly what I felt before readjusting my Tazer Mini. I'm on 38x13.5 pat's, over 4" of lift, and haven't felt any need to regear. It might take a bit longer to settle into 8th and it's quicker to pull a downshift to maintain up a grade, but it still feels peppy at all speeds. Maybe the 2.0's higher torque down low is helping things. Sorta like the 8-speed resisting a regear better than the manual, all else the same.
Well I’m an idiot I guess. :facepalm: I do have a Tazer but I’d removed it a while back before the lift and tires to take it in to the dealership. Forgot to put it back. I’ll reinstall it and report back.
 

Carlton

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Well I’m an idiot I guess. :facepalm: I do have a Tazer but I’d removed it a while back before the lift and tires to take it in to the dealership. Forgot to put it back. I’ll reinstall it and report back.
I'm sure that is it. I drove mine home from Discount Tire after having the wheels/tires installed without reprogramming. I experienced exactly what you described. The Taser should help.
 

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Well I’m an idiot I guess. :facepalm: I do have a Tazer but I’d removed it a while back before the lift and tires to take it in to the dealership. Forgot to put it back. I’ll reinstall it and report back.
Hahaha! Idiocy has nothing to do with it. You've been quite busy as of late, so it's one of those out of sight out of mind kind of things. I'm confident that it'll bring you back, the majority of the way, from feeling like it needs a regear.

From your past comments, it sounds like you're driving style is similar to mine. Not hammering it around and not holding up the works, but a nice happy medium. It's only on the rare occasion, when I'm leaning harder into it, that it comes to mind what a regear would do to improve the snappiness.

If I happen to come across as anti regear, it's only to avoid that particular rabbits hole. I'd want to add air lockers and rcv axles while it's open, but as others have suggested, it's better money spent to invest in a set of 60's that are worth pouring into. I'll definitely be treating the 44's to a set of Dynatrac ball joints, and I'm still on the fence with rcv axles since the knuckles would be off, but that would be the farthest I'd go.

Ha, now I'm babbling. Back to regularly scheduled programming. Pun intended. 😆

Happy New Year, CT!
 

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Alright, I reinstalled my Tazer and set tire size to 36.98. It’s not perfect and still needs to be regeared, but it definitely helped with shifting at the proper point, acceleration, and I can occasionally see 8th gear briefly under the perfect circumstances if I say pretty please.
 

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Alright, I reinstalled my Tazer and set tire size to 36.98. It’s not perfect and still needs to be regeared, but it definitely helped with shifting at the proper point, acceleration, and I can occasionally see 8th gear briefly under the perfect circumstances if I say pretty please.
Just bump it to manual mode at 70 or so on the freeway and it will hold 7th without issue and even 8th if flat enough. Just because the computer thinks it needs 6th doesn’t mean it does. Mine will hold 7th most of the time if I’m in cruise and even 8th if it’s flat enough.
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