BigMaCro

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Time to save up. About $3800 with the drive shaft.
Don't forget your tires, wheels, tire carrier, jack.... once you go big, the money really starts hitting the fan.

I'm making a spreadsheet. It's not pretty. Things are so much more expensive since I built my XJ 20 years ago.
 

Panda Mafia

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Don't forget your tires, wheels, tire carrier, jack.... once you go big, the money really starts hitting the fan.

I'm making a spreadsheet. It's not pretty. Things are so much more expensive since I built my XJ 20 years ago.
Yeah no kidding, im finding all these out first hand. Have my Jeep for three weeks. Jaw dropping prices. The worse part is, me liking the look of 37s so damn much. As much as I would want to make the jump to 37s right away, the suspension kit, steps/rocksliders, tire carrier not to mention the install labor will be too much for me.
With 35s i can get away not buying those items right away. Im also having a thought at the back of my head, saying as soon as youll see your 35s on, you will say should of went for 37s. (I guess its a good problems to have)

With all that said, I'm almost set to go with 35s. Got the wheels already. Just having a hard time deciding between KO2s vs Baja Boss Ats. I can drive away with new setup and KO2s tomorrow. Or wait god knows how long till 4wp get Mickeys.
 
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GATORB8

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Time to save up. About $3800 with the drive shaft.
Don't forget your tires, wheels, tire carrier, jack.... once you go big, the money really starts hitting the fan.

I'm making a spreadsheet. It's not pretty. Things are so much more expensive since I built my XJ 20 years ago.
Yeah no kidding, im finding all these out first hand. Have my Jeep for three weeks. Jaw dropping prices. The worse part is, me liking the look of 37s so damn much. As much as I would want to make the jump to 37s right away, the suspension kit, steps/rocksliders, tire carrier not to mention the install labor will be too much for me.
With 35s i can get away not buying those items right away. Im also having a thought at the back of my head, saying as soon as youll see your 35s on, you will say should of went for 37s. (I guess its a good problems to have)

With all that said, I'm almost set to go with 35s. Got the wheels already. Just having a hard time deciding between KO2s vs Baja Boss Ats. I can drive away with new setup and KO2s tomorrow. Or wait god knows how long till 4wp get Mickeys.
The whole suspension is extremely modular, you do not have to drop all the coin at once.

I'm happy to be the Guinea pig for you guys, I had both 35s and 37s on before the 4xe lifts specifically came out. The 35s lasted about 3 months / 4k miles, if you even slightly think you'll make the jump, go straight to 37s.

I'll make some recommendations in a post a little later, and touch on the items you guys have brought up.
 
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GATORB8

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@Panda Mafia @BigMaCro

So here are some items to think about, some will be exclusive to MC:
1. The Gamechanger is just a True Dual Rate with six extra adjustable control arms. The control arms are available separately, so you can upgrade down the road.
2. MC lifts will work with stock wheels, the differences are in the rear sway bar links vs drop and the front shock mounts. If you change to aftermarket wheels down the road, those parts are available separately. The 6-packs require aftermarket wheels.
3. The reason MC requires an aftermarket driveshaft is because both of their shock options are 29"+ extended in front. If you choose other shocks less than that, you can get away without it. (Note the 29" number comes from Rock Krawler, and my 28.43" Bilsteins just work). I can't guarantee longevity, but if anything we should be better off than a non 4xe at the same height and extension since the driveshaft is longer.
4. With an rear aftermarket bumper, you can run 37s on the stock carrier. Rough Country has an extremely reasonable relocation and hinge reinforcement should you want either.
5. Both Mopar and ARB have jack pads that allow the stock scissor to work with the larger tires.
 


Panda Mafia

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Everything is pretty simple aside from suspension.
that’s a rocket science to me right now that part I still have to learn.
I saw you mention this stuff in another thread. Of course when I read it and tried to understand it… good luck.
I’ll probably go back to your original post and read it again. Least with pictures I’ll have better understanding.
To most here it’s as simple as 2+2. I still need to catch up.
thank you tho. Appreciate the break down. I’ll pm you later if you don’t mind.
 
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GATORB8

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Everything is pretty simple aside from suspension.
that’s a rocket science to me right now that part I still have to learn.
I saw you mention this stuff in another thread. Of course when I read it and tried to understand it… good luck.
I’ll probably go back to your original post and read it again. Least with pictures I’ll have better understanding.
To most here it’s as simple as 2+2. I still need to catch up.
thank you tho. Appreciate the break down. I’ll pm you later if you don’t mind.
This is a part of an old post of mine, may help you understand what each part does:

Springs/Spacers - Establish Ride Height (lift) and ride quality (spring rate). Spacers don't impact spring rate, so a spacer on a stock spring will not impact the ride. You want enough spring extension to not have it fall out at full droop. Spacers will get you the exact advertised change, springs can be hit or miss, and give you more or less.

Bumpstops - Establish tire clearance at full stuff, and the max amount of uptravel. You want the bump stop to hit before your chosen shock "tops" out. Stock, the rubicon has 3.75" of uptravel, I would recommend not going under this, and getting closer to 5" if possible for balanced trail riding (Accutune's Recommendation).

Shocks - The extended length of your shocks establish your max downtravel/droop. Shocks over 29" full extension require aftermarket replacement front driveshaft per Rock Krawler.

Swaybar End Links - With the electronic disconnect in the Rubicon, you don't need aftermarket disconnects. You want the sway bar to be relatively level at ride height, so it's good to extend them by the amount you lift.

Caster Correction - The lift will place the front axle further down in the travel arch, decreasing caster. You'll want to correct the caster one of two ways, extended/adjustable front LCAs or UCAs, a full set of adjustable CAs, or Geometry correction brackets (or some combination)

Axle Location (left/right) - The lift will place the axles further down in the travel arch, moving the axle in one direction. Adjustable track bars or track bar brackets allow you to recenter your axle. Track bar brackets should only be used in the rear because they can cause bump steer if the drag link is a different length than the track bar.
 

lishmac

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finally finished installation after whole weekend doing all kind of gymnastics under the jeep, thanks for the help from OP @GATORB8 . I have to say their instructions have rooms for improvement, I need to read other manufacturers' for torque spec kind of stuff.

2.5 dual rate kit (not game changer)
liftInstall1.jpg


liftInstall2.jpg
 

Panda Mafia

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Just reread everything.
I could go with 2.5 Mc kit without shocks and driveshaft. Use my oem driveshaft and buy Bilstein 5100 shocks.
If need be can always upgrade driveshaft shocks and control arms down the road.
 


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Panda Mafia

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how is the ride in comparison?
looks great btw. the lift compliments your wide 37s now.
 

JR HANK

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Looks awesome my friend, got the same lift and very pleased all the way around. That Mopar 2" lift is a joke...
 

LJ_3M121318

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how is the ride in comparison?
looks great btw. the lift compliments your wide 37s now.
Thanks man. So far ride is great. Honestly though I haven’t noticed much of a difference compared to the mopar lift. But to be fair I am still using the same fox shocks from the mopar lift since metal cloak didn’t come with shocks so that’s probably a big reason why the ride is similar

 

Superchips TrailDash 3
 
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