MetalCloak GameChanger 2.5” lift installation questions

[JWAustinVTX]

I can't answer the control arm question, but Cloakworks used 2 pucks, front and rear, when they did mine for 37s. I have 0 offset wheels and have no rubbing at full turn. I did end up cutting out that common spot in the rear fender liner that most either cut out of reshape.

Can you provide details on this spot you cut or reshape? having issues with rear and remove them completely while wheeling until I find a solution

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[Thinman]

Can you provide details on this spot you cut or reshape? having issues with rear and remove them completely while wheeling until I find a solution

Here you go....

I chopped mine out. Some take a heat gun to it and flatten it

 

[Sgt Beavis]

They seem to be shipping a little quicker than they estimate lately.

Works for me.
My wife and I will just play in the Raptor on the day’s they’re getting the Wrangler squared away.

 

[Headbarcode]

I'm getting used to it all, just took me a bit of time. Everything seems fine though especially after the alignment. I definitely want to get a bit more caster though at some point. When i hit pot holes on the road i'm getting a wheel shimmy now that I didnt get before, so i wonder if that is related. Otherwise its just getting used to the new feel. I feel the stiffness people talk about with the rocksport shocks and i'm fine with it, but its a much different ride than the stock shocks. Just have to get used to the feel. Its funny while installing the shocks didnt feel super hard to compress. Is that normal?

Now if I want 35s, i need a solution for the tailgate.... 1 purchase leads to the next with these Jeeps lol.

It's the springs that make it feel stiffer, not the shocks.

 

[ModMike]

Hi,
Any chance you can estimate the ideal spacer size and or maybe post a photo?

Are you speaking of the spacer shown in this image of in the Outboard Shock Mount bracket?

Thank you.

I just installed mine and had the same issue. I just kept tightening until the bracket compressed but that is not ideal. If you had 2 of those thick washers supplied in the kit, it would fit perfect. In fact, that's what I initially thought they were for.

I'd measure with callipers but unfortunately I already compressed my bracket.

MT

 

[ModMike]

They do recommend using a zip tie to secure the existing brake like bracket to the spring perch. I did that but getting it tight is not really feasible, and it doesn't have the security of the second bracket that you have to pry/cut off.

I also got the Terraflex brackets but am not enthused with them or zip tying the back of the bracket to the inboard side of the spring perch.

I ended up using a dremel and fibre disk to cut off the nut welded to the back of the perch mounted brake line bracket. I then drilled out the hole to fit the bolt they supplied. Now it goes back together like factory. The one potential issue is that the supplied bolt is a little short because of the added thickness of the bracket. I was about 2 threads short so I used a lot of Loctite until I can get a longer bolt. Also, be sure to paint the bracket when reassembling to prevent rust.

Important note: When drilling the hole larger, the drill will grab and spin it, potentially injuring you and damaging the line. To avoid this, insert the inboard bracket tab into the inboard perch slot where it originally mounted. Now swing the bracket rearward while making sure it stays in the tab slot. Keep pressure on it so it doesn't move and drill carefully.

For the second bracket that was originally bolted to the lower control arm, I am currently using zip ties to approximately the same location on the lower MC control arm. Not sure if this is ok or not, need to do a droop test to be sure

I tried to remove the bracket but was afraid to damage the brake line, otherwise I would just ditch it. Another reason for keeping is it so I can easily put back to stock if my son ever sells it. No way I am leaving that kit in if I trade it in.

 

[ModMike]

Aha, I only read the Metalcloak description that explains the drop brackets are for muffler clearance with the 6-pak shocks. I did not understand that they could make the use of the Jeep OEM sway bar links possible. It did not occur to me that users would opt for a $79 drop bracket to use stock length links when the links sized for the lift only cost $89.

Thank you for explaining.

I bought their rear link kit because I thought they made a mistake in my kit. Problem is, the link ends will rub the stock wheel. I reinstalled the drop brakes and used OEM links, no rubbing.

 

[ModMike]

I have some bow in my springs and would like to know the best way to measure the exact distance to get the bow out of the spring.

With the vehicle sitting on its weight, is the spring perch centre supposed to be directly beneath the top spring mount? In other words, is the front bump stop supposed to be directly above the centre of the spring perch below it?

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

I just installed mine and had the same issue. I just kept tightening until the bracket compressed but that is not ideal.

My kit has been installed for a few weeks now. While I was waiting on the GC kit to arrive, I ordered some raw aluminum stock and turned two spacers on the lathe, which fit the brackets on my axle very closely. When the kit arrived I saw the spacers supplied were too short to seem useful and I was glad to have the made to measure spacers ready to go.

I appreciated reading the comments here and having the chance to anticipate the need.

Thank you.

 

[Sgt Beavis]

Me waiting for my 3.5" gamechanger...

 

[Headbarcode]

Me waiting for my 3.5" gamechanger...

Me enjoying my 3.5" Gamechanger.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

Me enjoying my 3.5" Gamechanger.

You got it all installed already??!!

 

[Headbarcode]

You got it all installed already??!!

Most of it now. Just recently pulled all 8 Synergy control arms and dialed in the Metalcloak arms. I've also been sitting on the mc front track bar all winter, which will replace the SteerSmarts one. And I'll be replacing the rear Synergy track bar with some more gold very soon. I used Synergy parts to complete my original Dynatrac lift, but their parts can't keep up with Metalcloak flex. The front and rear lower arms were over flexed and the threaded bushing was spinning under the torqued pinch bolts. They were loose and freespinning when I recently pulled them. I knew I'd find something up with them because the ride wasn't feeling as tight as it was.

I've been using the Metalcloak 6-packs, coils, rear sway links, bump stop spacers, and microcellar bump stops since September. My installs get done outside, so the winter slowed me down. I'm starting to push forward again. Knuckles, ball joints, and axle shafts are next. I'm still debating whether or not to pull the SteerSmarts tie rod and drag link for a set of 2" aluminum links. Next is rear driveahaft and axle shafts. I'm also getting some contact between thebrear sway bar and the frame at full stuff, so I have a feeling that I'll be doing the Anti Rocks front and rear, because they work best when paired together.

Apologies for being so long winded for a simple question. Lol

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

Most of it now. Just recently pulled all 8 Synergy control arms and dialed in the Metalcloak arms. I've also been sitting on the mc front track bar all winter, which will replace the SteerSmarts one. And I'll be replacing the rear Synergy track bar with some more gold very soon. I used Synergy parts to complete my original Dynatrac lift, but their parts can't keep up with Metalcloak flex. The front and rear lower arms were over flexed and the threaded bushing was spinning under the torqued pinch bolts. They were loose and freespinning when I recently pulled them. I knew I'd find something up with them because the ride wasn't feeling as tight as it was.

I've been using the Metalcloak 6-packs, coils, rear sway links, bump stop spacers, and microcellar bump stops since September. My installs get done outside, so the winter slowed me down. I'm starting to push forward again. Knuckles, ball joints, and axle shafts are next. I'm still debating whether or not to pull the SteerSmarts tie rod and drag link for a set of 2" aluminum links. Next is rear driveahaft and axle shafts. I'm also getting some contact between thebrear sway bar and the frame at full stuff, so I have a feeling that I'll be doing the Anti Rocks front and rear, because they work best when paired together.

Apologies for being so long winded for a simple question. Lol

Got it. Your replacing some components, not a complete replacement of all the lift kit components. Since you’re replacing arms that are already dialed in it’s not that hard to take one out, set the new arm to the exact same length as the one it’s replacing and bolt it in.

 

[Roky]

Most of it now. Just recently pulled all 8 Synergy control arms and dialed in the Metalcloak arms. I've also been sitting on the mc front track bar all winter, which will replace the SteerSmarts one. And I'll be replacing the rear Synergy track bar with some more gold very soon. I used Synergy parts to complete my original Dynatrac lift, but their parts can't keep up with Metalcloak flex. The front and rear lower arms were over flexed and the threaded bushing was spinning under the torqued pinch bolts. They were loose and freespinning when I recently pulled them. I knew I'd find something up with them because the ride wasn't feeling as tight as it was.

I've been using the Metalcloak 6-packs, coils, rear sway links, bump stop spacers, and microcellar bump stops since September. My installs get done outside, so the winter slowed me down. I'm starting to push forward again. Knuckles, ball joints, and axle shafts are next. I'm still debating whether or not to pull the SteerSmarts tie rod and drag link for a set of 2" aluminum links. Next is rear driveahaft and axle shafts. I'm also getting some contact between thebrear sway bar and the frame at full stuff, so I have a feeling that I'll be doing the Anti Rocks front and rear, because they work best when paired together.

Apologies for being so long winded for a simple question. Lol

I’ve decided to let mine hit the frame for now, it’s not constricting flex. I’m not sure that anti rocks are that great for DD. Mottos got one on the rear, he says it’s not bad, but he’s also on a 12” lift, so not really apples to apples......I look forward to your feedback if you go that route. .....

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