MetalCloak GameChanger 2.5” lift installation questions

[D60]

So for mine, the culprit was the caster and not the perches. My caster was at 9.5 (no idea how I got it that wrong) and that was causing one spring to just about vertical at ride height, with the other waaaaaay out of whack. Took it to a second alignment shop and they showed my caster at the way off number. I had them do the adjustments to make it 5.5 and that brought the spring bow back under control with both of them showing a little bit of bow that mirrored on either side.

Before I diagnosed the caster issue, I reached out to metal cloak and told me that numerous things can cause spring bow and that their correction pads could help, but with the pictures I sent them, they thought it was a different issue and they were correct.

Copy, thank you for the follow-up!

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[FasEddy]

I am in the process of installing the MC 2.5" Gamechanger RockSport on my 2019 JLUR. This thread has been very helpful - thanks to all the contributors.

I am having a bit of trouble with the front shock relocation brackets. First, the "ears" on the bottom shock mounts were way too wide for the bracket to fit over. I had to use the bolt to bring the ears in enough to get the bracket to clear (I still needed to use a rubber mallet to get the bracket on).

My real issue relates to the upper hole on the spring perch. I drilled the hole to 3/8" and, as you can see in the pictures below, the hole and the bracket do not line up. While it looks like the bracket can just be pushed a bit further back, that does not work. The bracket just pivots on the lower shock bolt and gets worse. If I get the upper hole to line up first, the lower shock bolt holes will not line up. The lower bolt has not been tightened yet.

The pictures are of the passenger side. I am having the same issue on the driver side (but not as bad).

I can obviously just drill out the upper hole further. Before doing that, I thought I would check here to see if anyone sees any problems with my install or has another idea.

Thanks!



T

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

I had a hard time with that hole too, I couldn’t get the drill bit to line up square to the surface because the “C” is in the way. I ended up drilling the hole at a slight angle and finessing the bolt to go in and tighten up.

I say drill it out a little more and let the washer compensate for the hole being a little wallowed out.

 

[FasEddy]

Thanks for the response. Drilling more sounds like the way to go!

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

What size did the mounting hole in the brake line bracket and the coil perch start out as?

In other words when you drilled it to 3/8" as per the shock mount relocation instructions, how much did you have to up size the hole?

I think When we do my install I may try a grinder which may have a better chance of aligning the edges of the holes more closely.

I turned some bright shiny exact fit spacers to replace the shock knuckles in the original shock mount location. It will be shame to have to go kludging with a drill bit to locate a hole effectively.

 

[FasEddy]

JeepScares - I am not sure what the original hole size was but it did not take much to get it to 3/8. Just a couple steps on my step bit.

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

JeepScares - I am not sure what the original hole size was but it did not take much to get it to 3/8. Just a couple steps on my step bit.

Thanks for the info, I am wondering if the edge of the original hole fell within, or at least near, the perimeter of the hole on the bracket.

Thank you for the heads up. I will be sure to inspect the hole locations before following the instructions to drill the hole out. It looks like a grinder, used to enlarge the hole off the existing center, may be the better tool to use in this instance. It is helpful to get the chance to make the choice. Thank you!

 

[FasEddy]

Thanks for the info, I am wondering if the edge of the original hole fell within, or at least near, the perimeter of the hole on the bracket.

Thank you for the heads up. I will be sure to inspect the hole locations before following the instructions to drill the hole out. It looks like a grinder, used to enlarge the hole off the existing center, may be the better tool to use in this instance. It is helpful to get the chance to make the choice. Thank you!

I do think the edge of the original hole was within the range of the bracket hole. My driver’s side is much closer and there is a good amount of overlap between the two holes.

 

[FasEddy]

Finished my install about a week ago (pictures below). This thread was very helpful! Thanks to everyone.

Based on my measurements, my caster looks to be right around 5 or slightly less. I want to add a bit more caster by shortening the uppers a turn or two.

I have already torqued everything. I am trying to figure out if I can make the adjustments by just removing the upper front bolts (one side at a time) without loosening the upper rear bolts or the lower control arm bolts. Put another way, if I change the uppers, should I loosen all front control arm bolts and retighten after setting the caster?

Hoping to avoid torquing everything again but don't want any binding, etc.

Thanks!

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

Finished my install about a week ago (pictures below). This thread was very helpful! Thanks to everyone.

Based on my measurements, my caster looks to be right around 5 or slightly less. I want to add a bit more caster by shortening the uppers a turn or two.

I have already torqued everything. I am trying to figure out if I can make the adjustments by just removing the upper front bolts (one side at a time) without loosening the upper rear bolts or the lower control arm bolts. Put another way, if I change the uppers, should I loosen all front control arm bolts and retighten after setting the caster?

Hoping to avoid torquing everything again but don't want any binding, etc.

Thanks!

Yes, you can remove just the axle side upper arm bolt, shorten the arm a few turns, then reconnect and torque it. Do one side at a time.

 

[FasEddy]

Yes, you can remove just the axle side upper arm bolt, shorten the arm a few turns, then reconnect and torque it. Do one side at a time.

Thank you!

 

[oceanblue2019]

The Rubicon electronic disconnect could possibly allow for the flop, where as a solid bar might prevent the sway bar from rotating into a full extension position.

I made a quick drawing showing the possible implication of a too short link, but increased sway bar arm rotation made possible by the electronic disconnection could allow a similar event to occur.

The link may not seem too short while the electronic disconnect sway bar is connected as a solid torsion tension spring assembly, but the link may seem too short when each of the sway bar arms can rotate more freely.

The MC front sway links are a bit on the short side if you run shocks that get you more droop.

You can rotate too far and fold them back which is what has happened here. Excellent diagram by the way - will keep it to explain this.

I've seen this happen a couple times on the trail and not fun to get them off without a high jack to get the load off.

 

[oceanblue2019]

What size did the mounting hole in the brake line bracket and the coil perch start out as?

In other words when you drilled it to 3/8" as per the shock mount relocation instructions, how much did you have to up size the hole?

I think When we do my install I may try a grinder which may have a better chance of aligning the edges of the holes more closely.

I turned some bright shiny exact fit spacers to replace the shock knuckles in the original shock mount location. It will be shame to have to go kludging with a drill bit to locate a hole effectively.

It's a 10mm bolt from the factory that goes into a captive nut in the brake line retaining bracket that goes on the perch.

MC says to zip-tie the bracket in place which is a bit janky so many use the Teraflex brake link mounts and cut the factory bracket off.

 

[Jeepsk8]

The MC front sway links are a bit on the short side if you run shocks that get you more droop.

You can rotate too far and fold them back which is what has happened here. Excellent diagram by the way - will keep it to explain this.

I've seen this happen a couple times on the trail and not fun to get them off without a high jack to get the load off.

Mine are 12" long, I seriously doubt they are too short. I had this happen on my 2013 JKR with a RK lift. They call them pins btw, anywayI had them send me ones for the next size up in lift, I think they were 9" long.

 

[Marman]

Really like the color, I finished mine up last weekend with a lot of help from this thread..

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