Sorry, I thought you had 3.5” lift. That’s what some people say, but I really like to center the wheel then use lowers to increase caster, that’s just the way I’ve always done it. But then I’m old school too so.......lol.
please share what you figure out, i'm all confused with the arms. got the same exact kit as you, only i have 33s right now (going to go up to 35s in the next 6 months most likely). I went ahead and ordered the front lower control arms too, but it sounds like the measurements they give may be fine for the 3.5 inch lift but maybe not the 2.5. I needs to order an angle finder too i guess so i can check caster when I do this. Anything i can learn from your install is greatly appreciated!
Whether adjusting the uppers or lowers, both will have the same affect on pinion/caster angle. Metalcloak chooses the uppers versus the lowers in their base kit, because they are more cost efficient (1 bushing, not 2) and are easier to switch (lower torque numbers to deal with).
Maybe you read your tape wrong on one side? Also the measurements I gave you were for 3.5” lift, you can use them as a starting point but you may have to dial it in to get caster where you want it.So I'm back at it again as I'm not having a very similar problem to what @ChocolateThunder was having with stearing. I've had an alignment and thought I had the steering wheel centered but just when I thought it was awesome, it would be off to either direction, i.e. when I'm on the highway, it's a little pull to the right, but then i'll be driving later and it will be a little push to the left. First noticed it because my spring issue from before has returned (Pic 1). Spring definitely has a bow to the point where it is just about making contact with the top bumpstop. Oddly, lower and upper bumpstops looks pretty close to aligned front to back.
Next step I did was to measure the axle location and it turns out my front passenger side is 3/8" further forward than the drivers side. I measured from the frame in the rear of the wheel well to the top of the steering knuckle. The driver's side is 23 11/16s" and the passenger is 24 1/16". Before I start to break it down and re-check all my arms, is that the most likely culprit here? I mean is it possible that I could the arms that far off from each other and still install it? My starting measurements where what were suggested by Roky, 20” center to center on uppers and 24-3/8” center to center on lowers, at least as far as I know. Also, is it just me or is the spring perch on the passenger's side look like its already canted backwards a long ways compared to the one on the driver's side? (Pic 2)
Looks good man.I’m not really seeing that the axles are out of position the photos posted. We’re talking about changing arm lengths in increments of a quarter of an inch or so, I don’t see how you can see that in the tire’s position in the wheel opening. For what it’s worth, I took a few pictures of mine. Are the wheels positioned where they’re supposed to be?
For sure man I appreciate all the help, planned on dialing it in to make sure its good for my specific but since things looked a bit off, wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something way off normal.
So I'm back at it again as I'm not having a very similar problem to what @ChocolateThunder was having with stearing. I've had an alignment and thought I had the steering wheel centered but just when I thought it was awesome, it would be off to either direction, i.e. when I'm on the highway, it's a little pull to the right, but then i'll be driving later and it will be a little push to the left. First noticed it because my spring issue from before has returned (Pic 1). Spring definitely has a bow to the point where it is just about making contact with the top bumpstop. Oddly, lower and upper bumpstops looks pretty close to aligned front to back.
Next step I did was to measure the axle location and it turns out my front passenger side is 3/8" further forward than the drivers side. I measured from the frame in the rear of the wheel well to the top of the steering knuckle. The driver's side is 23 11/16s" and the passenger is 24 1/16". Before I start to break it down and re-check all my arms, is that the most likely culprit here? I mean is it possible that I could the arms that far off from each other and still install it? My starting measurements where what were suggested by Roky, 20” center to center on uppers and 24-3/8” center to center on lowers, at least as far as I know. Also, is it just me or is the spring perch on the passenger's side look like its already canted backwards a long ways compared to the one on the driver's side? (Pic 2)
If you still have a slight bow on the passenger side with the rk perches, its because the rk isolators are identical, the Mopar’s are side specific. The springs sit opposite each other with the Mopar’s and the springs sit facing the same direction with the RKs. The drivers side RK pad indexes the spring the same as Mopar, that’s why it’s always the passenger side that has the issue.
Fortunately all good now! That was like a year ago. Good information though. Certainly possible I had something seated not quite right and when I installed the pads I also corrected that.
I went with adjusting the lowers...I set the uppers to stock length and set the lowers to 24 1/2". From my rudimentary measurements with a digital angle finder it put my caster right at 5.7°, and measures 88° at the flats on the pumpkin. That doesn't exactly jibe with the built in 6° caster of the axle though. Granted, I'm not on a perfectly level surface when measuring. I steers just fine but I have a tire shimmy around 50 mph (stock tires and 37's).
If not the Rocksport or 6-pack shocks that were designed and tuned for the Metalcloak springs, I'd want a set of something that won't limit travel custom tuned from Accutune.
Do these work on JLs?Are there any other standoffs similar to the Teraflex available?
The Teraflex install video shows an onboard camera driving shot of the under carriage where it seems like these anchors hold the lines away from the shocks etc., but introduce a bending point and a folding action in the lines that seems less than ideal.
I am wondering if there are any other choices.
