MetalCloak GameChanger 2.5” lift installation questions

[JJSix]

You can fine tune your caster to your liking from there , but that should be just a little over 6 degrees set to those numbers. That looks normal , you’ll have a little off center look to it while drooped, but as you compress to ride height it will center up.

Thanks for the help with the arm lengths, no idea what got me so far off, probably just can't math. Everything looks good so far for day 1, she's back on the ground, just need to center and torque and then get ready to tackle the rear tomorrow!

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[Roky]

Thanks for the help with the arm lengths, no idea what got me so far off, probably just can't math. Everything looks good so far for day 1, she's back on the ground, just need to center and torque and then get ready to tackle the rear tomorrow!

Sure man, no problem, post up some pics when she’s done.

 

[JJSix]

Sure man, no problem, post up some pics when she’s done.

Heck yeah! Can't wait to get it all dialed in, beats driving the minivan!

 

[JJSix]

Got the front half of my MetalCloak lift in today, hoping to get the back knocked out tomorrow and get her all centered and torqued down.

 

[JJSix]

Got her on the ground and torqued up, back was much easier than the front was so pretty quick day getting everything in. Only real hang-ups were the flag nut by the gas tank (took me a solid 15 minutes to get it finally to catch) and I installed the trackbar upside down, no idea how I did that but pretty self-correcting after I sat back and looked at it. Real pain was that my axle went back to off center by almost an inch when flipping it around.

For my first attempt at a lift and working by myself, this wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it could be. Having 2 sets of jack stands also helped a lot, one taller set for the frame and a short set for the axle itself. Also, having a hydraulic jack helped a ton, mine is a cheap one I've had for about a decade but it does the job to help line everything up.

Thanks for everyone's help with the spring issue yesterday and all the comments in this thread, it helped a ton so I didn't feel lost on minute one!

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

So I had a couple of hours and the weather was great (finally) so I got most of the front axle done today. All 4 arms, passenger shock and spring. All that’s really left Is driver shock and spring, bump stop, and track bar plus dropping it and adjusting/torquing everything on the ground.

@rustyshakelford are you going to be available for alignment this weekend or next week?

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

As I removed the front driver side spring I remembered that I have a 1/2” spacer in the front. I left it on the passenger side. Should I go back and remove it or leave them in? I don’t want to squat or rake. OEM steel bumper and winch in front.

 

[MarkY3130]

As I removed the front driver side spring I remembered that I have a 1/2” spacer in the front. I left it on the passenger side. Should I go back and remove it or leave them in? I don’t want to squat or rake. OEM steel bumper and winch in front.

I have felt that without spacers mine has balanced pretty well. I have OEM steel bumper + winch. You’ll have to make the call but I don’t think it needs it.

I usually do the drivers side first, it’s harder to get the spring in because the diff is closer to that side (unless you disconnect the front driveshaft, then it wouldn’t matter). Might not matter on a 2.5”. Sometimes the 3.5” + springs make things harder.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

I have felt that without spacers mine has balanced pretty well. I have OEM steel bumper + winch. You’ll have to make the call but I don’t think it needs it.

I usually do the drivers side first, it’s harder to get the spring in because the diff is closer to that side (unless you disconnect the front driveshaft, then it wouldn’t matter). Might not matter on a 2.5”. Sometimes the 3.5” + springs make things harder.

That’s kind of what I was thinking, thanks. It won’t be that much more work to go back and take out the passenger side one.

 

[SmoothJeepOperator]

My install got pushed back. Went Friday morning to open all my boxes and get things sorted out for the Saturday install. No front coils! Trying to work with metalcloak to get the tracking number on the 5th box. I hope they just didn't ship it by mistake or something. I was taking the boxes in as the FedEx guy was leaving and even waved to him, so nobody stole the box. Only other option is the FedEx guy just forgot my last box. If that's what happened I wonder if I'll ever find it. Either way sadly I have no idea when I'll get to the install now.

Just to update this... I talked to someone at metalcloak And they were able to provide me with the tracking number for my missing box. I filed a claim with FedEx and they tracked it to another address. MC in the meantime went ahead and shipped me replacements. Glad they took care of me in this situation. Great customer service!

Looking forward to getting the lift on, but it's going to be sometime in mid to late January now based on when me and my friend have the time. In the meantime I convinced myself to get the lower control arms and I continue to follow this thread for tips and tricks for the Install!

 

[Roky]

That’s kind of what I was thinking, thanks. It won’t be that much more work to go back and take out the passenger side one.

I would leave it in passenger side for now and see how it looks side to side. MC springs aren’t side specific to help with fuel tank weight. They were coming out with some kind of shim system , don’t know if they did yet. Just a thought, I know you don’t need RK guy chiming in.haha.

 

[Jeepsk8]

I would leave it in passenger side for now and see how it looks side to side. MC springs aren’t side specific to help with fuel tank weight. They were coming out with some kind of shim system , don’t know if they did yet. Just a thought, I know you don’t need RK guy chiming in.haha.

Hahaha, that's was perfect! Anyway, mine ended up leaning to the passenger side. It was 3/4" difference from one side to the other. I contacted MC and they said they have a shim kit available. He asked me to take some measurements and when I did it had settled in a bit more and was only about 1/4" difference. This was after 2 wheeling days, btw. I opted not to pursue it because it is barely perceptible. I think getting her to full flex a few times helped it out quite a bit.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

I would leave it in passenger side for now and see how it looks side to side. MC springs aren’t side specific to help with fuel tank weight. They were coming out with some kind of shim system , don’t know if they did yet. Just a thought, I know you don’t need RK guy chiming in.haha.

Thanks. All good information is welcome, even from RK guys. Typically a side to side lean would tend to be in the rear not the front, right? I haven’t noticed any side unevenness when it was stock or with he Dynatrac lift, but I didn’t measure anything. Just the eyeball test.

 

[Roky]

Thanks. All good information is welcome, even from RK guys. Typically a side to side lean would tend to be in the rear not the front, right? I haven’t noticed any side unevenness when it was stock or with he Dynatrac lift, but I didn’t measure anything. Just the eyeball test.

All good.... yes it is usually corrected in the rear, the rk rear isolators are a 1/2” taller in passenger side, but on mine , I still needed to do the front as well. Hopefully your all good. Seems no 2 are the same , lol.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

All good.... yes it is usually corrected in the rear, the rk rear isolators are a 1/2” taller in passenger side, but on mine , I still needed to do the front as well. Hopefully your all good. Seems no 2 are the same , lol.

I’ll try it and see. What’s the best way to measure small height differences side to side? I see guys measuring from the ground to a point on the fender but that seems pretty imprecise to me. A level across the bumper or maybe the cowl at the base of the hood that’s flat?

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