MetalCloak GameChanger 2.5” lift installation questions

[Yellow Cake Kid]

...the bolt is M12, which is .472”. Get a 1/2” ID spacer. 5/16” is way too small. 1 5/8” length will be a tight fit. It’s .275mm too long, should be easy to force it in there with a few hammer taps.

Thanks for the heads up about the M12 bolt. Yes, 0.275mm is 0.0108" shorter than 1.625". I was thinking of ordering the spacer because I have time to wait on the arrival and it is easier to do it from my warm couch than centering up stock on the lathe in my cold garage.

Thank you!

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[Col_Sanders]

I installed the rear half of my lift yesterday and used the torque specs from the Mopar lift posted elsewhere. The rear is sitting >4" higher than stock. I sure hope it settles down because its a good bit taller than I want. Up front I have a steel bumper and winch. Out back I have a Motobilt tire carrier and spare.

Removing the parking brake cables was easily done with a 13mm box wrench. Just slide it over the flared fitting and pull the cable from the other side. I ran into the same problem Bleepin Jeep did when doing his lift. The parking brake cable popped out of the bracket under the center console. Working blind in that tight space was fun. The other annoying thing was the rubber pads on top of the coil springs. I did manage to get them to stay in place finally by adding a bit of grease between it and the body. I've seen others use RTV.

I'm going to do the front either tomorrow or Monday. I was hoping to postpone the front driveshaft for a month or two but if its as high as the rear, I'll be dropping it off at Adams right after the alignment.

 

[SmoothJeepOperator]

I installed the rear half of my lift yesterday and used the torque specs from the Mopar lift posted elsewhere. The rear is sitting >4" higher than stock. I sure hope it settles down because its a good bit taller than I want. Up front I have a steel bumper and winch. Out back I have a Motobilt tire carrier and spare.

Removing the parking brake cables was easily done with a 13mm box wrench. Just slide it over the flared fitting and pull the cable from the other side. I ran into the same problem Bleepin Jeep did when doing his lift. The parking brake cable popped out of the bracket under the center console. Working blind in that tight space was fun. The other annoying thing was the rubber pads on top of the coil springs. I did manage to get them to stay in place finally by adding a bit of grease between it and the body. I've seen others use RTV.

I'm going to do the front either tomorrow or Monday. I was hoping to postpone the front driveshaft for a month or two but if its as high as the rear, I'll be dropping it off at Adams right after the alignment.

I'm hesitant to do the brake relocation thing because of what you are describing. Good to hear tips like using rtv for the rubber isolator in the rear. I may have to do that.

 

[Col_Sanders]

I was just glad I watched BleepinJeep's lift video so I knew what had happened when the parking brake lever was so easy to move. Getting the cable back on the bracket wasnt difficult, but you cant really see what youre doing while you're doing it.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

So I’m at the point where I’m installing the MetalCloak front upper arms. Instructions call to shorten them about 1/2” shorter than stock. What’s the best way to pull the axle backward into a position to where the holes align?

 

[jlewissystem]

Ratchet strap - ARE YOU DONE YET?

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

Ratchet strap - ARE YOU DONE YET?

Haven’t really worked on it but about 6 or 7 hours altogether. And doing other things mixed in like installing Mopar tailgate reinforcement and adjusting Teraflex tire carrier for new wheels and tires. Plus work and weather haven’t been cooperating.

Ratchet strap is what I’ve seen mentioned. Be specific- where to attach it to pull the axle backward a half inch on one side with the lower arm still connected?

 

[MarkY3130]

So I’m at the point where I’m installing the MetalCloak front upper arms. Instructions call to shorten them about 1/2” shorter than stock. What’s the best way to pull the axle backward into a position to where the holes align?

You take a jack and lift up on the front of the diff or the back of it depending on what direction you need to rotate.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

You take a jack and lift up on the front of the diff or the back of it depending on what direction you need to rotate.

I’ll try that.

 

[JJSix]

Hey y'all! So I started today and have had good progress buy quick question. Is.my spring supposed to have this bow? Looks like it's right up against the top bumpstop.

 

[MarkY3130]

Hey y'all! So I started today and have had good progress buy quick question. Is.my spring supposed to have this bow? Looks like it's right up against the top bumpstop.

Something isn't right. Maybe not seated corectly but looks like the axle needs rotated

 

[Roky]

Hey y'all! So I started today and have had good progress buy quick question. Is.my spring supposed to have this bow? Looks like it's right up against the top bumpstop.

Looks like control arms aren’t set right. Try 20” center to center on uppers and 24-3/8” center to center on lowers.

 

[JJSix]

Looking much better now, those numbers were much better looking than the starting MC ones

 

[SmoothJeepOperator]

Yikes makes me feel like I need to get the front lower control arms now?

 

[Roky]

Looking much better now, those numbers were much better looking than the starting MC ones

You can fine tune your caster to your liking from there , but that should be just a little over 6 degrees set to those numbers. That looks normal , you’ll have a little off center look to it while drooped, but as you compress to ride height it will center up.

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