MetalCloak GameChanger 2.5” lift installation questions

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Chocolate Thunder

Chocolate Thunder

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Mine are currently zip tied just like yours.


I don't know why I didn't think of that spot... I even stood there in the garage looking at it while at lunch and that spot didn't even register.. I'll give it a shot. Can I leave the brake line on the front side of the shock or does it need to be routed around to the back side of the shock? I wasn't sure if the front side was too close to the springs for the line.

Thanks for the responses!
Behind the shock, May not be long enough to route around the front.
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swozey

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I've returned! And it's done. Have a few things to fix but it drives so much better, can't believe how much better I take some sharp turns around my area.

If you compare it to my profile pic I'm just running 38s on stock suspension and some cutting of the rear plastics but couldn't go offroading or anything until I did the lift. Drove fine around town stock susp.

This is the GC 3.5 rocksport w/ Patagonia 38x13.5

lift1.jpg
 

SmoothJeepOperator

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I went with zip trying the brake bracket under the spring perch in the front, but now it's clinking and clanking around when I turn left or brake on the driver's side. Gotta get under their again tomorrow and see if I can situate it better.
 

MarkY3130

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Has anyone dealt with creaking springs?
I haven’t noticed mine creaking. Do you feel like it’s coming from the stacked portion of the coil up top rubbing on itself or from something else?
 

SmoothJeepOperator

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I haven’t noticed mine creaking. Do you feel like it’s coming from the stacked portion of the coil up top rubbing on itself or from something else?
Can't figure it out. Think it's just coming from the driver's side. Any time I accelerate, on low speed turns (parking) or with slow articulation ( on road, like leaving a driveway), I hear it. Not sure if I should be concerned about it or if something needs to be adjusted...
 

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I've returned! And it's done. Have a few things to fix but it drives so much better, can't believe how much better I take some sharp turns around my area.

If you compare it to my profile pic I'm just running 38s on stock suspension and some cutting of the rear plastics but couldn't go offroading or anything until I did the lift. Drove fine around town stock susp.

This is the GC 3.5 rocksport w/ Patagonia 38x13.5

lift1.jpg
A little off topic, but how tall is your Jeep exactly now? Im lifting soon and really need to still fit in garage.
 
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Question: with this 2.5” MC lift and 37” tires, there’s no need or benefit of running a flipped drag link, is there?
 

MarkY3130

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Question: with this 2.5” MC lift and 37” tires, there’s no need or benefit of running a flipped drag link, is there?
I wouldn’t think it would be worth the effort/expense. Obviously the intent is to align the drag link and the trackbar so if by doing the flip they ended up more aligned than they are currently there would be benefit. I don’t think it would end up more aligned than your current setup and there may not be enough clearance anyway (or too much bump stop required).

I’m on the 3.5” and I’ve decided I’m content without a flip. I can get a little better suspension travel without it and I don’t really notice any bump steer.
 

SilverRubi

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Question: with this 2.5” MC lift and 37” tires, there’s no need or benefit of running a flipped drag link, is there?
Metalcloak doesn't recommend it even with their 3.5 kit. I'm pretty sure with Steersmart's kit and a Metalcloak lift you have to run 4" of bumpstops to keep it from hitting the frame. I'm not sure what Synergy requires.
 

falcon241073

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Metalcloak doesn't recommend it even with their 3.5 kit. I'm pretty sure with Steersmart's kit and a Metalcloak lift you have to run 4" of bumpstops to keep it from hitting the frame. I'm not sure what Synergy requires.

I just installed the 3.5” lift on my 2021 JLUR this past weekend. My drag link and trackbar are perfectly inline with each other. I double checked today while I installed my Adams drive shaft.

Remeasured the the front arms. Uggg lower right is 1/8” shorter than the left. Not sure how that happened. Unless one of the guys helping me rolled the end over while we were installing it. Might explain why my jeep has a slight pull to the right.

And I need to readjust my front uppers. If I’m reading my digital angle finder correctly and did it right then I am just slightly over 8°. Lol. Well that ain’t right. I couldn’t tell until I put in the new drive shaft but the pinion and drive shaft aren’t inline. But that should be fixed when I adjust the uppers. Thankfully it doesn’t turn since we have the FAD.

Well more work to do this coming weekend. Lol. Oh well.
 

falcon241073

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Ok went to Firestone today for an alignment and make adjustments on my control arms. A friend is the manager so me and him did the adjustments. I forgot to get him to make a print out lol. But I mostly remember. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Left caster was 8.1 right was 7.7. Corrected to 6.8 on both. Reason was it drives fine (except the pull to the right, more on that in a few) and it should lower some as the springs settle. Only been a week since install. Got an Offroad trip in a couple weeks and the springs will be getting a work out then. I’ll take the Jeep back up to the shop and do a final adjustment the next weekend. Lower the caster some. Adjusted the toe a little. Needed to come in slightly. Thrust was off a little in the rear when we started but was good when we finished the front. Axles were centered. He remeasured to make sure my measurements were right on that.

On to the slight drift to the right. It wasn’t just road crown. But I adjusted my tires from 28 up to 32 and it helped a lot. Went to the local mall parking lot and found an empty area in the lot. I’d get the Jeep up to 35mph and it barely had any pull after that. If any. So I think it’s the wider mid tires wanting to track the road and follow the crown now. Adjusting the caster did help a lot though.

I know my caster is to high but the steering isn’t heavy and I don’t hear the pump straining. Again, I will adjust down some more but wanted to work the springs some. Hopefully get it all to settle.
 

Kev84

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You can fine tune your caster to your liking from there , but that should be just a little over 6 degrees set to those numbers. That looks normal , you’ll have a little off center look to it while drooped, but as you compress to ride height it will center up.
I know this is an old thread but I have the exact same issue as this. My lowers are already at 24 1/2" and Uppers are at 19 3/4". I know that my pinion angle is down about 2 degrees already.
But my biggest thing is I am at ride height and doesn't really look to be centering up on the bumps tops. Is this normal?
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