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MetalCloak GameChanger 2.5” lift installation questions

Roky

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I know this is an old thread but I have the exact same issue as this. My lowers are already at 24 1/2" and Uppers are at 19 3/4". I know that my pinion angle is down about 2 degrees already.
But my biggest thing is I am at ride height and doesn't really look to be centering up on the bumps tops. Is this normal?
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That looks like your control arms are not adjusted the same side to side. I would double check to see if both sides are the same. What’s your caster set at ? When the bumps don’t line up, that’s usually a pinion angle thing. If you can, put tan angle finder on the flat of the diff like in picture, see what it says.

Jeep Wrangler JL MetalCloak GameChanger 2.5” lift installation questions D40F1CC9-A032-406B-B972-13920B3E0AB9
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Kev84

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That looks like your control arms are not adjusted the same side to side. I would double check to see if both sides are the same. What’s your caster set at ? When the bumps don’t line up, that’s usually a onion angle thing. If you can, put tan angle finder on the flat of the diff like in picture, see what it says.

Jeep Wrangler JL MetalCloak GameChanger 2.5” lift installation questions D40F1CC9-A032-406B-B972-13920B3E0AB9
using the app on my phone it says -2 degrees..
Thanks
 

Roky

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using the app on my phone it says -2 degrees..
Thanks
Yeah, I would extend your uppers to 20” and try that. See if we’re barking up the right tree. If so then we can adjust the lowers if need be to get pinion and caster in a good place.
 

Kev84

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Yeah, I would extend your uppers to 20” and try that. See if we’re barking up the right tree. If so then we can adjust the lowers if need be to get pinion and caster in a good place.
Okay thanks. I am guessing the entire axle needs to go forward still. (both upper and lower need to move forward)
My old Teraflex 2.5 in kit had lower control arms that measured 24 1/2" so that is where I ended up. The uppers are still at what metalcload says of 19 3/4.
 

Roky

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Okay thanks. I am guessing the entire axle needs to go forward still. (both upper and lower need to move forward)
My old Teraflex 2.5 in kit had lower control arms that measured 24 1/2" so that is where I ended up. The uppers are still at what metalcload says of 19 3/4.
Yeah.. just dial the uppers out to 20 first without doing anything to lowers, might not need to mess with lowers .
 

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Roky

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Okay thanks. I am guessing the entire axle needs to go forward still. (both upper and lower need to move forward)
My old Teraflex 2.5 in kit had lower control arms that measured 24 1/2" so that is where I ended up. The uppers are still at what metalcload says of 19 3/4.
I think that’s all that’s going on here, MCs upper measurement is basted on stock lowers, which are 24”, so if you’re 24.5, then you need to extend the uppers. Right now, you’re probably running 8 degrees caster which is a little too much for your lift height. So it should drive better also when you get them extended.
 

Kev84

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I think that’s all that’s going on here, MCs upper measurement is basted on stock lowers, which are 24”, so if you’re 24.5, then you need to extend the uppers. Right now, you’re probably running 8 degrees caster which is a little too much for your lift height. So it should drive better also when you get them extended.
Well I started at 24” and the bump stops were offset even worse than they are now. I took a measurement when I got done at 24 and 19 3/4 on top. The bump stops center to center were 1” apart from lining up straight.
I didn’t want to go a full 1” so I went 24 1/2”.
thanks
 

Roky

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Well I started at 24” and the bump stops were offset even worse than they are now. I took a measurement when I got done at 24 and 19 3/4 on top. The bump stops center to center were 1” apart from lining up straight.
I didn’t want to go a full 1” so I went 24 1/2”.
thanks
Ok….. let’s push uppers to 20” and see if there’s an improvement, then we’ll dial your lowers back an eighth if we need to go a little farther.
 

Kev84

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Well got it all done and taken to a known good jeep alignment shop.
I had 35s on for alignment. When I put 37s on it pulls a little to the right. Not a big deal I guess. I will rotate tires around and see if that gets better.
The next thing is hitting bumps and this with 37s compared to 35s man feels different. Not sure how to explain it but feels slightly like wheels “flopping” around.
I wonder if that is just because of stock drag link and tie rod not being strong enough.
Ok….. let’s push uppers to 20” and see if there’s an improvement, then we’ll dial your lowers back an eighth if we need to go a little farther.
jeep alignment shop. Eve
 

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Jeep Wrangler JL MetalCloak GameChanger 2.5” lift installation questions 1637035595395
 

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Well got it all done and taken to a known good jeep alignment shop.
I had 35s on for alignment. When I put 37s on it pulls a little to the right. Not a big deal I guess. I will rotate tires around and see if that gets better.
The next thing is hitting bumps and this with 37s compared to 35s man feels different. Not sure how to explain it but feels slightly like wheels “flopping” around.
I wonder if that is just because of stock drag link and tie rod not being strong enough.


jeep alignment shop. Eve
Increasing tire diameter will alter the amount of total toe. And yeah, the stock tie rod and drag link are barely sufficient for stock tire sizes. The added leverage and weight of larger tires will cause a loose and mushy steering feel, because they will flex under the increased forces.
 

Kev84

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Increasing tire diameter will alter the amount of total toe. And yeah, the stock tie rod and drag link are barely sufficient for stock tire sizes. The added leverage and weight of larger tires will cause a loose and mushy steering feel, because they will flex under the increased forces.
I told the alignment guy who is a jeeper that I was putting on 37s and he did say that will make a difference and will set the toe for 37s
 

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I told the alignment guy who is a jeeper that I was putting on 37s and he did say that will make a difference and will set the toe for 37s
37's vary in actual size, but not enough to throw it off by too much. The factory steering linkages, along with the track bars and control arms, are constructed out of thin-walled material. That'll result in the vague, sloppy, and easily influenced feel that you are now experiencing with the larger tires. Start with a quality set of steering linkages. They will go a long way towards reigning in those 37's. And if you haven't already, seriously think about do the same with the track bars and control arms. The more beef that you add to the connecting points between the frame/body and the axles, the better the overall ride and handling will feel. Those are all the main supporting parts to the increased forces that result from the larger tires and lift height.
 

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Skimming this old thread made me realize why my bumps stops aren't centered. Dang.

I have mixed feelings about that. I feel like my springs are a little off, too, and everything is slightly janky, but the Jeep rides and steers like a crown princess at a beauty pageant, and I have not been gentle on the suspension since I lifted it. I think I'm just going to whistle right past that cemetery and worry about it if something eventually breaks.
 

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To all you 2.5" gamechangers:

What shocks did you get with the 2.5" Rubicon lift?
How would you rate the ability of the suspension to absorb bumps on the road, specifically compared to the stock Rubicon, or name what model you have? I like the Gamechanger 2.5, but I want a setup that rides as smooth as a stock Rubicon, or slightly smoother. I have seen mixed comments, where some say it is firmer, and some say smooth.

Thanks.

I’ve been riding around on the lift for a wile and everything feels good. No wheeling yet. The wife drove it for the first time after the lift all day yesterday all over Houston, freeway driving. She liked it. Says it rides better than before.
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