Metalcloak Front Trackbar or Bracket Clearance?

[jlewissystem]

That will definitely do the trick. Just keep the bit moving along the length of the edge you're working. Don't let it sit in one spot. Also, if you use a paint pen to mark the amount of material to remove, it will serve as a reference to know when to stop and end up with a clean and symmetrical window.

Yep - agree with all this. Just go slow.....you can take away, you cant put back Just pay attention to your pressure. Dont go Rambo on it and you'll be all good. Paint pen is a good idea!

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[Halstem1]

Yep - agree with all this. Just go slow.....you can take away, you cant put back Just pay attention to your pressure. Dont go Rambo on it and you'll be all good. Paint pen is a good idea!

So I was looking at it last night. Swapped out by rear TB because that was easy. But the front I’ll probably do Saturday. When you guys marked with a paint pen... did you just hold the TB up to the bottom side of the mount and trace it? I need to get the current TB out so I can see what room I have on each side. I saw in the MC instructions they had marked it with a paint pen too. Just wasn’t sure how they came up with what to mark.

 

[Headbarcode]

So I was looking at it last night. Swapped out by rear TB because that was easy. But the front I’ll probably do Saturday. When you guys marked with a paint pen... did you just hold the TB up to the bottom side of the mount and trace it? I need to get the current TB out so I can see what room I have on each side. I saw in the MC instructions they had marked it with a paint pen too. Just wasn’t sure how they came up with what to mark.

I haven't installed mine yet, so I'm not familiar with how much fat needs to be trimmed for both fit and clearance. Also looking to do the deed after work this Saturday.

That reminds me, I have to find a place that sells paint pens and also pick up some black primer to dress the bare steel.

 

[Halstem1]

I haven't installed mine yet, so I'm not familiar with how much fat needs to be trimmed for both fit and clearance. Also looking to do the deed after work this Saturday.

That reminds me, I have to find a place that sells paint pens and also pick up some black primer to dress the bare steel.

So this is a fun process. Used a burr grinder in my demel. First, it’s not easy to tell exactly how much needs removed. I kind of trial and error removed bits. Not a big deal except my bushing is super tight to get in and out. Bretts recommendation to 45 the grind was huge. Appears to have made good clearance but leaves more of the mount.

Worst part... METAL SHAVINGS EVERYWHERE! I feel like I rolled in glass. I have slivers stuck in my everywhere.

Trying to figure out how to torque jam nut without completely removing. Can’t access the jam not on the Jeep.

 

[Headbarcode]

So this is a fun process. Used a burr grinder in my demel. First, it’s not easy to tell exactly how much needs removed. I kind of trial and error removed bits. Not a big deal except my bushing is super tight to get in and out. Bretts recommendation to 45 the grind was huge. Appears to have made good clearance but leaves more of the mount.

Worst part... METAL SHAVINGS EVERYWHERE! I feel like I rolled in glass. I have slivers stuck in my everywhere.

Trying to figure out how to torque jam nut without completely removing. Can’t access the jam not on the Jeep.

They usually recommend tightening of the jamb nut outside of the mounting point, if there's not enough space to do so in the bracket. You may just need to hold the bushing end from turning during final torque. Like a cars jack handle through the bushings mounting hole or a large enough adjustable wrench to hold outside of the bushing housing.

 

[Halstem1]

They usually recommend tightening of the jamb nut outside of the mounting point, if there's not enough space to do so in the bracket. You may just need to hold the bushing end from turning during final torque. Like a cars jack handle through the bushings mounting hole or a large enough adjustable wrench to hold outside of the bushing housing.

Makes sense. I was afraid of the adjustable end bushing not being in line (strait) with the fixed end. The rancho track bar I used to have had a flat spot on the bar to put a second wrench.

 

[D60]

I'm sorry but if you A) can't or B) won't do a simple mod like this you shouldn't be modding your vehicle at all.

Stop stressing, get out to the garage and pick up some tools and your man card and get it done.

 

[Cthehentz]

I'm sorry but if you A) can't or B) won't do a simple mod like this you shouldn't be modding your vehicle at all.

Stop stressing, get out to the garage and pick up some tools and your man card and get it done.

This cracks me up, in 89' I got all my welding cert's, the instructor told us to toss the book and start welding as he mumbled ( you ain't gonna learn shit from a book). Point is just do it.....

 

[Headbarcode]

Makes sense. I was afraid of the adjustable end bushing not being in line (strait) with the fixed end. The rancho track bar I used to have had a flat spot on the bar to put a second wrench.

Yeah, I'm new to the Jeep world but I've been neck deep in the heavy equipment and truck repair industry starting at 6 years old. I didn't have the typical childhood. The high majority of my friends back then have been dying of old age over the last 30+ years. Was like having 3 or 4 dozen grandfather's, moray of which were very well reputed in their respective trade. It was quite an education. Forgive the babbling. Lol

Reason I mention that is to back up this statement. That the reality of doing one's own repairs, that go beyond basic under hood bolt-ons, is the amount of tools you'll quickly find a need for. It could easily get more expensive to properly tool yourself up, than to pay a shop that already is.

Don't take this as me dissuading you from doing your own work. I actually applaud those who are that interested in their person vehicles. It's just hard to walk someone through the how-to, without it turning into an impromptu tool run.

After work, I'll be running to the shop 50 miles away to trim my rear pinch seam, trim off my rear axle shock mounts, and install the Metalcloak front track bar. I could've asked my brother to bring home a laundry list of necessities, and done it on the driveway that's only a few miles away. But, there's always those little things that pop up. It's well worth the added miles to be within a couple hundred feet of anything that could be needed.

Metalcloak sells their own version of a "crows foot". Think of cutting the open end off a combination wrench, than broaching a 1/2" square hole in it like the bottom of a 1/2" drive socket. It aids in getting into tight spots, by being able to clock it at different angles in relation to a ratchet with or without an extension.

Please forgive all this rambling, that isn't helping. Part of me wants to delete all this, but the rest doesn't want to not respond to you Mike. I'm hoping you get this tightened up, before I spend your paycheck on tools. Lol

 

[Halstem1]

Yeah, I'm new to the Jeep world but I've been neck deep in the heavy equipment and truck repair industry starting at 6 years old. I didn't have the typical childhood. The high majority of my friends back then have been dying of old age over the last 30+ years. Was like having 3 or 4 dozen grandfather's, moray of which were very well reputed in their respective trade. It was quite an education. Forgive the babbling. Lol

Reason I mention that is to back up this statement. That the reality of doing one's own repairs, that go beyond basic under hood bolt-ons, is the amount of tools you'll quickly find a need for. It could easily get more expensive to properly tool yourself up, than to pay a shop that already is.

Don't take this as me dissuading you from doing your own work. I actually applaud those who are that interested in their person vehicles. It's just hard to walk someone through the how-to, without it turning into an impromptu tool run.

After work, I'll be running to the shop 50 miles away to trim my rear pinch seam, trim off my rear axle shock mounts, and install the Metalcloak front track bar. I could've asked my brother to bring home a laundry list of necessities, and done it on the driveway that's only a few miles away. But, there's always those little things that pop up. It's well worth the added miles to be within a couple hundred feet of anything that could be needed.

Metalcloak sells their own version of a "crows foot". Think of cutting the open end off a combination wrench, than broaching a 1/2" square hole in it like the bottom of a 1/2" drive socket. It aids in getting into tight spots, by being able to clock it at different angles in relation to a ratchet with or without an extension.

Please forgive all this rambling, that isn't helping. Part of me wants to delete all this, but the rest doesn't want to not respond to you Mike. I'm hoping you get this tightened up, before I spend your paycheck on tools. Lol

Haha. Maybe I came off wrong in my post this morning based on your response and the guy above I think telling me I need to find my “man card”. Haha

I have plenty of tools. Actually haven’t had a single issue with not having a tool. I’ve worked on vehicles for 20+ years. I replaced a motor in a YJ when I was 17. But I am NOT a mechanic. I’m an accountant. I don’t know all the tips and tricks or maybe don’t know what is the best tool for the job.

This particular jam nut is not easily accessible in my opinion. It’s slightly blocked by the axle mount itself. Then when you get a wrench or any kind on it, there is about 1/8th of a turn before you hit steering linkage.

All good I think. Tightened the best I could off the vehicle. Then was able to tighten a little more while installed. Couldn’t get a crows foot on mine so just used a crescent wrench. When I’m sure everything is good, I might drop the axle to get more room and tighten more and paint mark.

 

[Headbarcode]

Haha. Maybe I came off wrong in my post this morning based on your response and the guy above I think telling me I need to find my “man card”. Haha

I have plenty of tools. Actually haven’t had a single issue with not having a tool. I’ve worked on vehicles for 20+ years. I replaced a motor in a YJ when I was 17. But I am NOT a mechanic. I’m an accountant. I don’t know all the tips and tricks or maybe don’t know what is the best tool for the job.

This particular jam nut is not easily accessible in my opinion. It’s slightly blocked by the axle mount itself. Then when you get a wrench or any kind on it, there is about 1/8th of a turn before you hit steering linkage.

All good I think. Tightened the best I could off the vehicle. Then was able to tighten a little more while installed. Couldn’t get a crows foot on mine so just used a crescent wrench. When I’m sure everything is good, I might drop the axle to get more room and tighten more and paint mark.

No, your post was pretty straight forward to me. Glad to hear it worked out, and good to know a bit of your background and tooling. There's a lot of grey area involved because we usually never know who each other are, what we've done our not, and what we have or don't have.

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