Metalcloak Front Trackbar or Bracket Clearance?

[Fire Burns]

I recently purchased a used Metalcloak Front Trackbar. According to Metalcloak, installation requires enlarging the hole in the axle side (right side) trackback bracket, thus allowing fitment. From the Metalcloak instructions:

"MetalCloak uses an over-sized forged housing for additional strength; the factory window pocket may need additional clearance for optimal fitment. Use a die grinder and cutting bit to enlarge the existing window in the factory track bar bracket. It may help to grease the outside of the track bar bushings to make the install into the track bar brackets easier."

This was know to me when I purchased, but the idea is slightly bugging me. For others is been enough to go with another manufacturers product altogether. Still yet others decided to clearance the trackback DuroTrak bushing housing itself rather than the pocket, though I've not seen this mod in detail.

Rather than debate the merits of the Metalcloak trackbar itself, I'd love to hear opinions from people who have installed them. Did you clearance the bracket pocket? Did you clearance the bushing housing? Why did you decide to do one or the other? What mod would be easier? Pros/cons, etc.

One thing is that I got this trackbar for only $100 so I don't mind modding it if its prudent. On the other hand, I paid multiple thousands of $$$ for my JLUR and I'm a little more reluctant to mod a bracket when one of the whole points of adding a trackbar is to eliminate flex at this location. Wouldn't clearance the bracket create an opportunity for unwanted flex?

Thanks!
Fire

FYI: Metalcloak instructions for their front trackbar (to include pic of what I'm talking about) can be found here: https://www.armoredworks.com/metalc...NSION/II-7616-JL-Front-Durotrak-Track-Bar.pdf

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[Roky]

I recently purchased a used Metalcloak Front Trackbar. According to Metalcloak, installation requires enlarging the hole in the axle side (right side) trackback bracket, thus allowing fitment. From the Metalcloak instructions:

"MetalCloak uses an over-sized forged housing for additional strength; the factory window pocket may need additional clearance for optimal fitment. Use a die grinder and cutting bit to enlarge the existing window in the factory track bar bracket. It may help to grease the outside of the track bar bushings to make the install into the track bar brackets easier."

This was know to me when I purchased, but the idea is slightly bugging me. For others is been enough to go with another manufacturers product altogether. Still yet others decided to clearance the trackback DuroTrak bushing housing itself rather than the pocket, though I've not seen this mod in detail.

Rather than debate the merits of the Metalcloak trackbar itself, I'd love to hear opinions from people who have installed them. Did you clearance the bracket pocket? Did you clearance the bushing housing? Why did you decide to do one or the other? What mod would be easier? Pros/cons, etc.

One thing is that I got this trackbar for only $100 so I don't mind modding it if its prudent. On the other hand, I paid multiple thousands of $$$ for my JLUR and I'm a little more reluctant to mod a bracket when one of the whole points of adding a trackbar is to eliminate flex at this location. Wouldn't clearance the bracket create an opportunity for unwanted flex?

Thanks!
Fire

FYI: Metalcloak instructions for their front trackbar (to include pic of what I'm talking about) can be found here: https://www.armoredworks.com/metalc...NSION/II-7616-JL-Front-Durotrak-Track-Bar.pdf

I’ve installed a couple of MC lifts and both times I opened up the window pocket. IMO , this in no way has a negative impact on your rig.

It’s not uncommon for some lift companies to recommend slight alterations to optimize the performance of their products. RK has you notch out the lca bracket on the axle to clear the jam nut and better access the grease fitting. JKS has you cut off the outside tab of the sway bar link on the passenger side in order for the disconnect to clear.

I understand being hesitant to cut on your rig, but I haven’t seen anything negative come from it. @rustyshakelford installs these lifts all the time, he’s the one you should reach out to.

 

[rustyshakelford]

It sounds worse than it is. It’s not really the length that’s the issue but the width. I use a plasma and clean it up with a die grinder but we do a bunch of these. It’s realistically like a 10 min project. I use a crescent to pry open the bracket a hair to make it easier to put in and out while test fitting too. When you torque it back down it’s perfect

Brett

 

[Fire Burns]

It sounds worse than it is. It’s not really the length that’s the issue but the width. I use a plasma and clean it up with a die grinder but we do a bunch of these. It’s realistically like a 10 min project. I use a crescent to pry open the bracket a hair to make it easier to put in and out while test fitting too. When you torque it back down it’s perfect

Brett

@rustyshakelford and @Roky Thanks guys. I just having a hard time with the idea that the bracket wouldn't need as much strength as is absolutely possible. I mean, folks are absolutely obsessed with trackbar stiffness (see oversized Yeti Steersmarts bar) and frame strength (see Synergy, Rancho, and Rusty's trackbar frame braces), yet don't seem to have an issue with re-introducing the POTENTIAL for additional flex by modifying the bracket on the axle side of the trackbar.

Or does it not matter on the axle side?

Or are you saying the mod it so minimal as it won't make a difference?

-Fire

 

[Roky]

@rustyshakelford and @Roky Thanks guys. I just having a hard time with the idea that the bracket wouldn't need as much strength as is absolutely possible. I mean, folks are absolutely obsessed with trackbar stiffness (see oversized Yeti Steersmarts bar) and frame strength (see Synergy, Rancho, and Rusty's trackbar frame braces), yet don't seem to have an issue with re-introducing the POTENTIAL for additional flex by modifying the bracket on the axle (passenger side) of the trackbar.

Or does it not matter on the axle side?

Or are you saying the mod it so minimal as it won't make a difference?

-Fire

The mod is so minimal it won’t make a difference, and it’s non-structural.

 

[DOOKEY]

This was know to me when I purchased, but the idea is slightly bugging me.

From one over thinker to the next.... you're over thinking it.

 

[Fire Burns]

Yeah, I do overthink things, but you gotta admit its hard to reconcile how everyone seems so (overly?) obsessed with trackbar and trackbar bracketry stiffness in the frame side, but apparently no qualms on the axle side. There are at least 3 bolt-on frame side trackbar bracket stiffeners on the market. On the other hand we've all see endless debates on who has stiffest/best trackbar and there is probably close to a dozen premium aftermarket trackbars out there. I am honestly surprised nobody has come up with some sort of axle TB bracket overlay "for added strength, stiffness, and durability." Or maybe its just too hard to engineer.

I guess at the end of the day it will be my bracket that gets modded - especially since my wife wants Cloakworks to do the install. I'm guessing she doesn't trust me to do it right, haha. OK, twist my arm!

 

[DOOKEY]

Yeah, I do overthink things, but you gotta admit its hard to reconcile how everyone seems so (overly?) obsessed with trackbar and trackbar bracketry stiffness in the frame side, but apparently no qualms on the axle side. There are at least 3 bolt-on frame side trackbar bracket stiffeners on the market. On the other hand we've all see endless debates on who has stiffest/best trackbar and there is probably close to a dozen premium aftermarket trackbars out there. I am honestly surprised nobody has come up with some sort of axle TB bracket overlay "for added strength, stiffness, and durability." Or maybe its just too hard to engineer.

I guess at the end of the day it will be my bracket that gets modded - especially since my wife wants Cloakworks to do the install. I'm guessing she doesn't trust me to do it right, haha. OK, twist my arm!

The best track bar bracket is the one you install after cutting the stock POS off the frame.

Much like the news... people only know what they are being told. They want to seem smart so they regurgitate what other people post. This has been true for the entire 20 years I've owned Jeeps.

What I know to be true is that you will never learn anything by letting everyone else wrench for you. I say tell your wife to make you a sammich and get you a cold beer once the install is complete.

I have a couch if you need it.

 

[rustyshakelford]

The best track bar bracket is the one you install after cutting the stock POS off the frame.

Much like the news... people only know what they are being told. They want to seem smart so they regurgitate what other people post. This has been true for the entire 20 years I've owned Jeeps.

What I know to be true is that you will never learn anything by letting everyone else wrench for you. I say tell your wife to make you a sammich and get you a cold beer once the install is complete.

I have a couch if you need it.

I see you like to live dangerously as well

Brett

 

[oceanblue2019]

@rustyshakelford and @Roky Thanks guys. I just having a hard time with the idea that the bracket wouldn't need as much strength as is absolutely possible. I mean, folks are absolutely obsessed with trackbar stiffness (see oversized Yeti Steersmarts bar) and frame strength (see Synergy, Rancho, and Rusty's trackbar frame braces), yet don't seem to have an issue with re-introducing the POTENTIAL for additional flex by modifying the bracket on the axle side of the trackbar.

Or does it not matter on the axle side?

Or are you saying the mod it so minimal as it won't make a difference?

-Fire

The issue is the frame side is a known weak area. Jeep has had one recall over the welds in that area. So that side makes 100% sense to add a brace to mitigate any weld failure issues due to fatigue.

On the axle side we are talking about grinding out an existing window a bit. The track bar end is still held in double shear and is boxed in 4 of 6 sides, which of course 2 needs to be open for the shaft to fit in and be able to move.

This is zero issue to do.

 

[Halstem1]

Question for those that have widened this opening in the axle side track bar bracket... will a dremel be enough to widen the opening? Or do I need to purchase something more persuasive? Thanks.

 

[jlewissystem]

Question for those that have widened this opening in the axle side track bar bracket... will a dremel be enough to widen the opening? Or do I need to purchase something more persuasive? Thanks.

You can use a dremmel, but would need something like this. This is the only thing that worked for me.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-Tun...VwAiICR06wwtyEAQYAiABEgLeavD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Halstem1]

You can use a dremmel, but would need something like this. This is the only thing that worked for me.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-Tun...VwAiICR06wwtyEAQYAiABEgLeavD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I can do that. Might even have one. Did it work well?

 

[Headbarcode]

I can do that. Might even have one. Did it work well?

That will definitely do the trick. Just keep the bit moving along the length of the edge you're working. Don't let it sit in one spot. Also, if you use a paint pen to mark the amount of material to remove, it will serve as a reference to know when to stop and end up with a clean and symmetrical window.

 

[rustyshakelford]

A pro tip ive learned is you can bevel the inside some after opening it up a bit and that helps reduce the amount of material you have to remove. You can almost guesstimate a 45° grind around the middle where the center of the TB head is and open that part up

brett

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