Metalcloak Front Track Bar Reinforcement Bracket

[JT1]

While I do wish Metalcloak used all 4 steering box bolt holes, it does have the benefit of leaving the steering box partly installed during brace installation.

Also I drove for a few weeks with just the 3 steering box bolts installed. Adding the lower two bolts (and puny bolt right above the track bar) seemed to have more effect than just the 3 upper bolts alone. It was worth the hassle in my opinion.



I can feel a difference on a stock Rubicon. I'm sure it would improve 37s.



I didn't and I'm on stock springs. Just disconnected the shocks & swaybar endlinks for more droop.

Can you explain the difference you feel? Mine feels like the front axle deflects on heavily crowned roads or fighting a cross wind. Kind of a 2 stage deal, turn the wheel initially to set course and then walk that back until you have to adjust again..

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[Rodeoflyer]

Can you explain the difference you feel? Mine feels like the front axle deflects on heavily crowned roads or fighting a cross wind. Kind of a 2 stage deal, turn the wheel initially to set course and then walk that back until you have to adjust again..

Just fyi, EVERY solid front axle vehicle does that. Not a lot you can do about it other than maybe go to hydro steering which will counteract it with sheer force. It's just the way a solid front axle vehicle tracks...

My problem, after owning/driving a LOT of sfa vehicles (prob half dozen in my lifetime) the JL has this little shudder/wag that's really not *that* bad considering what I've dealt with in the past lol, but noticeable. This Jeep has spoiled me a bit. I'm sure a full steering upgrade along with this reinforcement bracket would knock that out but the wandering people complain about.. that's par for the course.

I've put a lot of $$$ into my SFA vehicles to get them to the point I'm at now with the Jeep, just have this little nagging thing left I need to sort. I hate to just throw money at things that are minor annoyances... It's def just a weak bracket or geometry issue.

 

[JT1]

Just fyi, EVERY solid front axle vehicle does that. Not a lot you can do about it other than maybe go to hydro steering which will counteract that with sheer force. It's just the way a solid front axle vehicle tracks...

My problem, after owning/driving a LOT of sfa vehicles (prob half dozen in my lifetime) the JL has this little shudder/wag that's really not *that* bad considering what I've dealt with in the past lol, but noticeable. This Jeep has spoiled me a bit. I'm sure a full steering upgrade along with this reinforcement bracket would knock that out but the wandering people complain about.. that's par for the course.

Yeah this is my 5th SFA, and I've had some sketchy ones. This is different.. roads that barely upset my LJ and JK are sketchy in the JT, and require nearly constant steering corrections.. Mine has the updated steel box, Clayton 3.5, clayton front trackbar, it's sitting at 6* caster and I've tried everything from 1/4" toe out to 1/4" toe in.. nothing has ever improved the steering.

Did it stock, did it lifted on small tires, did it with 37s and 35's..

 

[Rodeoflyer]

AH I see.. if these weak brackets are bending or you could have an axle that's not straight. The wonderful cost cutting on new vehicles makes me wonder lol

 

[AnnDee4444]

Can you explain the difference you feel? Mine feels like the front axle deflects on heavily crowned roads or fighting a cross wind. Kind of a 2 stage deal, turn the wheel initially to set course and then walk that back until you have to adjust again..

It's hard to describe, but before the bracket when hitting abrupt bumps the Jeep would feel like it wanted to start deathwobbling, but the steering stabilizer stopped it. Now it feels much less likely to even try to start.

If you ever remove & replaced the frame side of the track bar, you'll notice that the tiny amount of slop in the bolt hole will make the steering wheel ~45 degrees off (with the 2-door steering ratios). So if the bracket deflects 1/32", it's like cranking the steering wheel ~30 degrees, then immediately back to center. Except this is even worse... the tires are giant springs that are constantly trying to center themselves (due to caster), and they end up oscillating back & forth (deathwobble), unless the steering stabilizer dampens the tire's spring effect.

I haven't seen any reason to upgrade track bar/drag link/tie rod at this time, mostly because I doubt they deflect more than the bracket. My approach is to stop the uncontrolled movement at the bracket & steering box.

I wonder if the aftermarket will ever create a spindle with a longer lever arm where the drag link attaches. We already have aftermarket spindles & drag links, so it's not too far of a stretch. A longer lever arm would result in less steering changes when things deflect, and would also slow the steering ratio (useful for larger tires). Unfortunately this might also require a larger than 17" wheel.

Some related photos from here:

 

[JT1]

It's hard to describe, but before the bracket when hitting abrupt bumps the Jeep would feel like it wanted to start deathwobbling, but the steering stabilizer stopped it. Now it feels much less likely to even try to start.

If you ever remove & replaced the frame side of the track bar, you'll notice that the tiny amount of slop in the bolt hole will make the steering wheel ~45 degrees off (with the 2-door steering ratios). So if the bracket deflects 1/32", it's like cranking the steering wheel ~30 degrees, then immediately back to center. Except this is even worse... the tires are giant springs that are constantly trying to center themselves (due to caster), and they end up oscillating back & forth (deathwobble), unless the steering stabilizer dampens the tire's spring effect.

I haven't seen any reason to upgrade track bar/drag link/tie rod at this time, mostly because I doubt they deflect more than the bracket. My approach is to stop the uncontrolled movement at the bracket & steering box.

I wonder if the aftermarket will ever create a spindle with a longer lever arm where the drag link attaches. We already have aftermarket spindles & drag links, so it's not too far of a stretch. A longer lever arm would result in less steering changes when things deflect, and would also slow the steering ratio (useful for larger tires). Unfortunately this might also require a larger than 17" wheel.

Some related photos from here:

what you are talking about I have experienced. It's similar to bumpsteer, but more bumpflex..

 

[AnnDee4444]

what you are talking about I have experienced. It's similar to bumpsteer, but more bumpflex..

It's more like a controlled death-wobble... maybe like a sickness-wobble in that it recovers on it's own.

Bump steer is defined by the geometry of the suspension (not deflection), and specifically relates to how the steering direction changes when the suspension cycles up/down. This can be observed when the springs are removed and axle lifted up/down/flexed. It's most prevalent in older IFS vehicles that toe in/out when the suspension moves up/down. I haven't noticed this so much on the JL, which makes sense due to the realatively equal lengths & angles of the drag link & track bar.

Edit: I would take mild bumpsteer over deathwobble. Bumpsteer is predictable and you almost get used to compensating for it.

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

Hi,
I have the Metal Cloak track bar bracket on order. I am curious to try it out. While I await the arrival, I am hoping to plan for an easy installation.

I am wondering if someone can relate their experiences with drilling the two holes in the frame. I am especially interested in how you got access to drill the rear hole. Did you drop the axle and remove the spring or did you find a way to sneak in there and drill the hole without having to remove the spring?

Thank you.

 

[Rodeoflyer]

You really hit this on the head. It's not about the steering, ball joints etc. It's about locating the axle through the entire cycle.

I really think you nailed it brother!

 

[AnnDee4444]

Hi,
I have the Metal Cloak track bar bracket on order. I am curious to try it out. While I await the arrival, I am hoping to plan for an easy installation.

I am wondering if someone can relate their experiences with drilling the two holes in the frame. I am especially interested in how you got access to drill the rear hole. Did you drop the axle and remove the spring or did you find a way to sneak in there and drill the hole without having to remove the spring?

Thank you.

I didn't have to remove the spring, but I did pull the shock to get a little more droop (392 shocks).

I ended up using a 1/2" hole saw for the initial hole, with the center bit removed and using the partially installed MetalCloak bracket as a guide. Then used a 11/16 bit to get the final size... the nutserts were a little loose in the 11/16 holes, and I needed to rig up a way to get them to stop spinning to squish (it involved an impact driver). Also ended up needing to file the holes in the bracket to get proper alignment.


I've attempted to install the sector shaft brace, but haven't come up with a way of accurately locating the holes... they're tapered so I won't be able to adjust the bracket alignment later.

The best way I can think of is to stack a 1/2" hole saw inside a shorter 11/16" hole saw, using the 1/2" hole as a guide. Like this:

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

Thank you Andy.

Your previous comment about the hole saw had already caught my attention.

I am eager to see the track bar bracket firsthand and learn how the mounting holes in the bracket differ from the hole diameter required to place the nutserts, and how the holes in the bracket differ from the diameter of the bolts that go in the nutserts. In other words, I am curious to learn how much wiggle room there is with the fitment. It seems to me that the two added bolts are meant to keep the bracket from "peeling" downwards and away rather than sliding horizontally (with the steering box bolts doing most or all of the work of holding the bracket in its horizontal position) so I am guessing there is some wiggle room engineered into the hole sizing to allow for imprecise location.

The sector shaft brace, on the other hand, does not seem worth installing unless you can figure out a way to place it perfectly, which I can not imagine as a goal that is practically achieved.

Thank you for the info.

 

[Rodeoflyer]

I've replaced all of my tracbar bolts with ones that that fit. It worked!

 

[Tool Guy]

You might try using a transfer punch to accurately locate the holes for the nutserts.

Only $12 at you local Horrible Freight.

 

[Yellow Cake Kid]

I am eager to see what size holes are in the bracket. I have a 1/2" transfer punch, and I have hole saws, so am interested in considering the options.

 

[DEdney1775]

After reading all through this, I just purchased the MC track bar bracket and the sector brace. I'll be installing those ASAP, as I feel like dw is slowly going to hit me..

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