Metalcloak 2.5” game hanger or Teraflex 2. 5”

[rustyshakelford]

I'm in the same boat. Are there any drive shaft issues with the 2.5 lift either MC or RK on a 2dr Sport?

2.5” is usually pretty safe. It comes with the same shocks as the 3.5” Mc lift though. You’ll need to be sure your bumpstops are right to make sure you don’t get into your fender. At the height your stock driveshaft should be fine. However, I’ll always suggest swapping it out when lifting. Added perk is it’s easy to drop the MC shaft if there’s an issue vs pulling the factory one

Brett

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[Cornfed]

Spend the extra couple hundred and get the rocksports. I love them. They are $276 a set. The game changer and true dual comes with outboard shock mounts to maximize articulation.

I’m glad to be apart of the board, lots of great folks and get to see what all everyone comes up with for their personal builds! We have our own alignment machine but I don’t advertise about it like I could. We just like to make sure what we turn out is 100% and not rely on someone else to dial it in.

Brett

I wish there was a shop like that around here. And seriously for thank you. I’ve read so many of your post and you really are such a tremendous resource to all of us people that are less than knowledgeable.

 

[MandKM]

I went with the 2.5” MC Game Changer with rocksport shocks and drive shaft. (MC recommends the driveshaft for the 2.5 as well as the 3.5.) I ended up with a little more than 3” of additional lift when all is said and done. It drives well, though a little harsher on bad roads, I think the added stiffness results in better handling. I highly recommend it.

As I understand it (and please correct me if I’m wrong), the OEM driveshaft can strike the exhaust cross-over at full suspension droop. If that is the case, then it shouldn’t matter if your talking 2.5” or 3.5” if both use the same shock, since the shock length will be the determining factor for how far the suspension will droop.

Anyways, here are a few photos after lift. I’m running 315 BFG KO2s.

 

[rustyshakelford]

I went with the 2.5” MC Game Changer with rocksport shocks and drive shaft. (MC recommends the driveshaft for the 2.5 as well as the 3.5.) I ended up with a little more than 3” of additional lift when all is said and done. It drives well, though a little harsher on bad roads, I think the added stiffness results in better handling. I highly recommend it.

As I understand it (and please correct me if I’m wrong), the OEM driveshaft can strike the exhaust cross-over at full suspension droop. If that is the case, then it shouldn’t matter if your talking 2.5” or 3.5” if both use the same shock, since the shock length will be the determining factor for how far the suspension will droop.

Anyways, here are a few photos after lift. I’m running 315 BFG KO2s.

The DS hits the crossmember. The JKs hit the exhaust. At full droop (hanging from a 2 post lift) it will be setting on cross member. When wheeling you typically don’t find that situation hopefully and the axles will be limited by the bumpstops while articulating. I agree they are cheap insurance if wheel and easy to replace or pull on the trail if you need to

Brett

 

[RubiRob]

Has anyone tried the new Alpine IR control arms out? They look nice and you can adjust them without dropping one side of an arm and offers full range of motion. Then again Apline IR arms plus their "base" lift and falcon 3.3 SP2s (they don't sell that whole setup as a package) is Just over $4,100 MSRP lol.

 

[OffroadTreks]

So, if I recall correctly, that cross member doesn't seem to actually be holding anything up. You could in theory remove it. I know that a lot of the skid plate systems do away with it completely.

I think the other issue is just the design of that driveshaft. The OE shaft is a CV joint design going into the transfer case there. You can't change the angle too aggressively. I have a friend who installed the Mopar lift because "supposedly" you won't need a drive shaft. His was f**ed up in about 3 months anyhow.

The one thing I've learned about owning this Jeep, is it feels like every mod requires 10 other mods. Seriously. On my Power Wagon I could do something and then go months between doing another something without issues arising. LOL

Put a lift on, well now you need a driveshaft. Oh, 37's well now you need a tire carrier. On and on.

 

[Fire Burns]

So, if I recall correctly, that cross member doesn't seem to actually be holding anything up. You could in theory remove it. I know that a lot of the skid plate systems do away with it completely.

I think the other issue is just the design of that driveshaft. The OE shaft is a CV joint design going into the transfer case there. You can't change the angle too aggressively. I have a friend who installed the Mopar lift because "supposedly" you won't need a drive shaft. His was f**ed up in about 3 months anyhow.

The one thing I've learned about owning this Jeep, is it feels like every mod requires 10 other mods. Seriously. On my Power Wagon I could do something and then go months between doing another something without issues arising. LOL

Put a lift on, well now you need a driveshaft. Oh, 37's well now you need a tire carrier. On and on.

My wife and I are finding that out the hard way as well. I got wheels and 37s. Holy crap that was expensive! Now I need a lift and a tire carrier and tailgate reinforcement. Oh yeah, also need the speedometer reprogrammed for the new tires. The lift? Oh, now you need a drive shaft...

Lol, and so on...

 

[Dalingrin]

Wait, I'm confused. Is it the front or rear driveshaft that is the problem at full droop? Both?

 

[Krondor]

Wait, I'm confused. Is it the front or rear driveshaft that is the problem at full droop? Both?

Front.

 

[D60]

I am in Phoenix and my jlur is back home in Colorado. The photo doesn’t show any MC components. The tires are 315’s. I can take some pictures of the undercarriage when I return home on the 21st. Cheers

I think I saw your rig on the Buck pre-lift.

Both the gf and I don't really like color-matched fenders or top in most colors but we both agreed there was a red one running around that looked great with color-matched everything.

Anyway.....as to the front d/s, I don't recall anything difficult about pulling the stock unit. An impact (I carry in vehicle), extension and torx bit made QUICK work of it. I'd say getting at the bolts on the NEW replacement yoke is harder, I now carry an 8mm flex head ratcheting wrench with lo-pro socket adapter just for this reason. I suppose a box end 8mm would work on the trail, you'd just be there all day LOL

 

[D60]

Also with the MC 2.5 and 38's I'm running every bit of bump stop that MC threw in the kit, largely due to advice from @rustyshakelford.

And I'm glad I am. As it was in Moab I was taking my Milwaukee scissors to my rear fender liners, but just for superficial rubbing that made annoying noises in the cab. Incidentally, if anyone here doesn't own Milwaukee scissors -- best scissors EVAR. I've got 2 pairs in house, 2 in shop and one in EVERY vehicle. Anyway I'm just gonna yank the rear fender liners, they don't do a damn thing.

I'm also just too cheap and grumpy to see the point of high dollar shocks when all I do is crawl Moab or the Colo high country. I'm running stock Rubi shocks in the rear (lower mounts relocated ala Lincoln Electric) and cheapo Skyjackers up front, part #B8387 - I paid $55 ea on Amazon but you can get 'em cheaper elsewhere, I just needed Prime shipping as I was in a hurry. They work fine for me (shrug), even at highway speeds

 

[Mugzzzee]

I think I saw your rig on the Buck pre-lift.

Both the gf and I don't really like color-matched fenders or top in most colors but we both agreed there was a red one running around that looked great with color-matched everything.

Anyway.....as to the front d/s, I don't recall anything difficult about pulling the stock unit. An impact (I carry in vehicle), extension and torx bit made QUICK work of it. I'd say getting at the bolts on the NEW replacement yoke is harder, I now carry an 8mm flex head ratcheting wrench with lo-pro socket adapter just for this reason. I suppose a box end 8mm would work on the trail, you'd just be there all day LOL

Hi there! Very likely you saw my Wrangler on the Buck Hwy. I know there is one other all red wrangler in the area.....I have not yet decided to replace the front d/s. My mechanical skills are somewhat limited. Having said that I might try replacing it myself in the spring. I appreciate your wrench suggestion and will add one to my traveling tools. Cheers

 

[OffroadTreks]

I'm also just too cheap and grumpy to see the point of high dollar shocks when all I do is crawl Moab or the Colo high country. I'm running stock Rubi shocks in the rear (lower mounts relocated ala Lincoln Electric) and cheapo Skyjackers up front, part #B8387 - I paid $55 ea on Amazon but you can get 'em cheaper elsewhere, I just needed Prime shipping as I was in a hurry. They work fine for me (shrug), even at highway speeds

As someone who owns a set of custom tuned King 2.5 shocks on my other crawler, I can tell you they make all the difference in the world for those specific applications. Don't need to boogie to see the benefits.

The Rocksports are pretty similar to stock. Except valved a little differently. Better rebound control over stock. And a firmer ride. You can hit some stuff on the trail a little faster with them. The rebound is nice though.

I've heard the 6-paks leak.

 

[Dirt Tiger]

Still trying to decide on what lift I want. After a couple Jeep meet ups and some riding in other jeeps. I am now thinking about the 3.5” game changer or the rock krawler X factor 3.5. They both seem very similar. Does anyone have the 6 pack shocks for the MC I have heard some problems with them but I also hear that they give some hellacious articulation over the rocksports. Whats everyone else experiencing.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Still trying to decide on what lift I want. After a couple Jeep meet ups and some riding in other jeeps. I am now thinking about the 3.5” game changer or the rock krawler X factor 3.5. They both seem very similar. Does anyone have the 6 pack shocks for the MC I have heard some problems with them but I also hear that they give some hellacious articulation over the rocksports. Whats everyone else experiencing.

We have one of each. MC with GC and rocksports and RK x-factor with Radflo resi shocks. They are both great. My MC gets consistently better reviews for the ride over the RK. A lot of that has to do with the massive shocks being a little more firm. I haven’t messed with the 6 paks, the rocksport are great in my opinion. I don’t know how much articulation you need but mine gives you plenty. Same goes with the RK. I need to do a head to head on our RTI ramp and see what they score but I’d guess it’s within an inch or two

Brett

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