Metal Oil Filter Housing Cap, and Housing??

[_olllllllo_]

So after the thread discussions I went out last night to check the torque on the oil filter cap. I had hand tightened it to 20 ft-lbs. It has never leaked and the additional torque to get it to 25 ft-lbs only resulted in the cap rotating about 20˚.

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[mwilk012]

I'm hearing this more that they are not cracked but its the o rings leaking. I don't see the leak just the oil lake in the valley. I'm going to replace the unit, don't feel like doing it twice. Sounds like you've done a few there has been what 4 updates?

Oh there’s probably been several updates, you can never tell if it’s any better. The o-ring size and material has changed at least once on the bottom of the adapter.

 

[neil]

It would be interesting to see what filters are throwing issues if it can be attributed to simply an o ring. I doubt that is the case though.

I wish more jeep owners would do their own fluids at a minimum, you don't need a crawler or jacks to get under this.

It will be interesting to see the milage we get out of our 2 jeeps. I maintain my vehicles extremely well, still own an almost 20yo yukon with 350K and a benz

 

[mwilk012]

It would be interesting to see what filters are throwing issues if it can be attributed to simply an o ring. I doubt that is the case though.

I wish more jeep owners would do their own fluids at a minimum, you don't need a crawler or jacks to get under this.

It will be interesting to see the milage we get out of our 2 jeeps. I maintain my vehicles extremely well, still own an almost 20yo yukon with 350K and a benz

no you misunderstand, the problem with the filter housing is the o-ring that attaches the plastic housing below the cooler to the block. The caps aren’t bad about breaking.

 

[neil]

no you misunderstand, the problem with the filter housing is the o-ring that attaches the plastic housing below the cooler to the block. The caps aren’t bad about breaking.

nope, the smaller o ring I am talking about. See my OP a day back about 'I don't see the cap breaking'

 

[OSCAR II]

It would be interesting to see what filters are throwing issues if it can be attributed to simply an o ring. I doubt that is the case though.

nope, the smaller o ring I am talking about. See my OP a day back about 'I don't see the cap breaking'

Filter wont make any difference. Its not the o ring on the filter. its these o rings.

 

[mwilk012]

Filter wont make any difference. Its not the o ring on the filter. its these o rings.

I’m not even truly convinced it’s the seals fault, but the plastic housing warping over time. We see it all the time with plastic intake manifolds, water outlets, etc.

 

[neil]

Filter wont make any difference. Its not the o ring on the filter. its these o rings.

I’m not even truly convinced it’s the seals fault, but the plastic housing warping over time. We see it all the time with plastic intake manifolds, water outlets, etc.

Has anyone done a postmortem on a jl with this yet?

 

[Kyanche]

I barely tightened mine with the torque wrench. It felt like I got it on way more than tight enough before it hit like 10lb-ft. Maybe my wrench needs calibration? As long as it's not holding a suspension part I don't think it's an issue. I do check to make sure nothing leaked/sprayed out.

 

[blnewt]

I barely tightened mine with the torque wrench. It felt like I got it on way more than tight enough before it hit like 10lb-ft. Maybe my wrench needs calibration? As long as it's not holding a suspension part I don't think it's an issue. I do check to make sure nothing leaked/sprayed out.

It's similar to a canister oil filter as far as tightness, just snug it up by hand and then twist another 1/4 turn and you're good to go. And like mentioned previously, oil up those threads so it won't try to bind up as you go.

 

[mwilk012]

Has anyone done a postmortem on a jl with this yet?

I haven’t. I haven’t even compared part numbers to be honest, but the problematic piece is still there, the plastic body of the assembly.

 

[RDiddy]

I read through this whole thread specifically looking for recommended torque values for both the drain plug and the oil filter housing cap - could I trouble someone to confirm those two values please and thank you? Have my first oil change coming up

 

[Rhinebeck01]

I read through this whole thread specifically looking for recommended torque values for both the drain plug and the oil filter housing cap - could I trouble someone to confirm those two values please and thank you? Have my first oil change coming up

@RDiddy

I encourage you to read this WHOLE thread. The info you seek and other important/pertinent info is in this thread:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...e-completed-w-diy-instructions-and-pics.3860/

 

[RDiddy]

@RDiddy

I encourage you to read this WHOLE thread. The info you seek and other important/pertinent info is in this thread:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...e-completed-w-diy-instructions-and-pics.3860/

Thank you Rhinebeck for the continued education... appreciate your time. I will pore over that whole thread.

For anyone else scouring for the answers to my above question - through some further searching I believe the torque values to be 20 foot pounds for the drain plug and 18 foot pounds for the oil filter housing cap. Remember to lube up the gasket and threads on the plastic housing.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Thank you Rhinebeck for the continued education... appreciate your time. I will pore over that whole thread.

For anyone else scouring for the answers to my above question - through some further searching I believe the torque values to be 20 foot pounds for the drain plug and 18 foot pounds for the oil filter housing cap. Remember to lube up the gasket and threads on the plastic housing.

I keep this as an iPhone note. Maybe some of it will be useful to you since you’re just getting started. Note that I have a 2dr, manual rubicon with tow package some some things may be different for you (eg diff oil weight)

Oil
5q 0w20

Diff
75w90 - front
75w140 - rear
"Flex Fill" bags are the way to go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KB5LTJM/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HQGCVG/

Oil Filter
MOPAR MO-349 68191349AB/AC
Mobil 1: M1C-456A

Air Filter
MOPAR 68257030AA

Cabin Filter
MOPAR 68301863AA

Sockets
22mm lugs
13mm drain plug
24mm oil filter cap (torque to 18lbs - too tight and it'll crack)
8mm air filter

UConnect
Pull F97 to reset
Hold driver's side temperature up, temperature down and front defrost buttons simultaneously to enter dealer mode (to see version numbers)

TSBs
TSB 18-092-19 Needed so Jeep will crank on second try if AUX is dead. Don't say ESS because that TSB doesn't mention it. Say the A/C fan is too loud.

Main Battery
Northstar 48 or Odyssey 94R (94R only confirmed to fit Rubicon with tow package)

Forum recommended tires
Cooper STT Pro (these look badass with lettering out - good in snow) 285/70R17

BFG KO2 (stock)

Full Tazer Sleep Process
For some reason Joe removed some of this from latest guide. The red security bit is useful!

Once done adjusting settings, turn the ignition off, then start the vehicle. It may start and stall with the red security dot lit. If this happens, wait 10 seconds and try again, it will resume operation when it has completed its re-learn procedure. Then two sleep cycles: Shut off the vehicle, open and close the driver door and wait for a minute to be sure the dash turns off. Then start it, wait for the radio to boot up, then shut it off and open/close door and wait again.


Fuse Array
68368854AA - 100 Amp (tow package)

Fix seat if it won't recline
68485522AA Insert-Seat Position Return
68485519AA Insert-Seat Position Return

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ld-and-lock-into-position-june-20-2019.34614/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ld-and-lock-into-position-june-20-2019.34614/

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