Metal Oil Filter Housing Cap

RDiddy

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I keep this as an iPhone note. Maybe some of it will be useful to you since you’re just getting started. Note that I have a 2dr, manual rubicon with tow package some some things may be different for you (eg diff oil weight)

Oil
5q 0w20

Diff
75w90 - front
75w140 - rear
"Flex Fill" bags are the way to go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KB5LTJM/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HQGCVG/

Oil Filter
MOPAR MO-349 68191349AB/AC
Mobil 1: M1C-456A

Air Filter
MOPAR 68257030AA

Cabin Filter
MOPAR 68301863AA

Sockets
22mm lugs
13mm drain plug
24mm oil filter cap (torque to 18lbs - too tight and it'll crack)
8mm air filter

UConnect
Pull F97 to reset
Hold driver's side temperature up, temperature down and front defrost buttons simultaneously to enter dealer mode (to see version numbers)

TSBs
TSB 18-092-19 Needed so Jeep will crank on second try if AUX is dead. Don't say ESS because that TSB doesn't mention it. Say the A/C fan is too loud.

Main Battery
Northstar 48 or Odyssey 94R (94R only confirmed to fit Rubicon with tow package)

Forum recommended tires
Cooper STT Pro (these look badass with lettering out - good in snow) 285/70R17

BFG KO2 (stock)

Full Tazer Sleep Process
For some reason Joe removed some of this from latest guide. The red security bit is useful!

Once done adjusting settings, turn the ignition off, then start the vehicle. It may start and stall with the red security dot lit. If this happens, wait 10 seconds and try again, it will resume operation when it has completed its re-learn procedure. Then two sleep cycles: Shut off the vehicle, open and close the driver door and wait for a minute to be sure the dash turns off. Then start it, wait for the radio to boot up, then shut it off and open/close door and wait again.


Fuse Array
68368854AA - 100 Amp (tow package)

Fix seat if it won't recline
68485522AA Insert-Seat Position Return
68485519AA Insert-Seat Position Return

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ld-and-lock-into-position-june-20-2019.34614/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ld-and-lock-into-position-june-20-2019.34614/

1619886307072.png

1619886324528.png

1619886347657.png

1619886369496.png
Holy crap, jackpot! Thanks very much. Saving all of the above. Seriously, thanks OGNJ





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Rhinebeck01

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Thank you Rhinebeck for the continued education... appreciate your time. I will pore over that whole thread.

For anyone else scouring for the answers to my above question - through some further searching I believe the torque values to be 20 foot pounds for the drain plug and 18 foot pounds for the oil filter housing cap. Remember to lube up the gasket and threads on the plastic housing.
@RDiddy

Yes, that is correct torque specs.... In the thread I linked to, find toward the end of that thread info warning / VIDEO about how to pull the old filter off, so you do not damage the valve in the cap.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...w-diy-instructions-and-pics.3860/post-1494984
 

RDiddy

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@RDiddy

Yes, that is correc torque specs.... In the thread I linked to, find toward the end of that thread info warning / VIDEO about how to pull the old filter off, so you do not damage the valve in the cap.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...w-diy-instructions-and-pics.3860/post-1494984
Understood. Looking through it now. I'm definitely going to take your advice and pick up an extra filter housing, just in case. This is our only vehicle so if it doesn't hold oil we're kinda boned.

Good call.
 

Rhinebeck01

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Understood. Looking through it now. I'm definitely going to take your advice and pick up an extra filter housing, just in case. This is our only vehicle so if it doesn't hold oil we're kinda boned.

Good call.
@RDiddy

Another suggestion for you... When you do your first oil change, pull the old filter off the cap the correct way and with your smartphone, take a picture of the cap ... specifically a closeup pic of the thread area on the cap and where exactly the O-ring is presently residing.. Keep that pic! When you remove the old O-ring you must get the O-ring back in the same location or you will have oil leakage once the cap is reinstalled. Your pic will be your piece of mind reference...

Also, when doing your FIRST oil change, pour in the 5 quarts and let the JL sit for say 10 minutes.
NOW, pull the dipstick and clean it and then re-insert. Now, pull the dipstick and take a picture that shows where the oil level is exactly on the dip stick... Keep the pic....

Now days, weeks after the oil change, when the JL is cold and has been sitting there for say an hour, you can pull the dipstick and compare it to the pic you took at oil change time. Your comparison will let you know your oil level is below 5 qts... Sure, you can read a dipstick anytime but this way...with the pic will assure you that 5 qts is still in there or down... etc..

.
 

RDiddy

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@RDiddy

Another suggestion for you... When you do your first oil change, pull the old filter off the cap the correct way and with your smartphone, take a picture of the cap ... specifically a closeup pic of the thread area on the cap and where exactly the O-ring is presently residing.. Keep that pic! When you remove the old O-ring you must get the O-ring back in the same location or you will have oil leakage once the cap is reinstalled. Your pic will be your piece of mind reference...

Also, when doing your FIRST oil change, pour in the 5 quarts and let the JL sit for say 10 minutes.
NOW, pull the dipstick and clean it and then re-insert. Now, pull the dipstick and take a picture that shows where the oil level is exactly on the dip stick... Keep the pic....

Now days, weeks after the oil change, when the JL is cold and has been sitting there for say an hour, you can pull the dipstick and compare it to the pic you took at oil change time. Your comparison will let you know your oil level is below 5 qts... Sure, you can read a dipstick anytime but this way...with the pic will assure you that 5 qts is still in there or down... etc..

.
Will do, thanks again for all the advice. Have an enjoyable weekend sir.
 

CarbonSteel

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Not sure if your responding to my o ring post but the o rings I'm referring to are the 5 or 6 on the bottom of the adapter. It sounds like they're not holding up and the cause of the leaks, not a cracked housing.
Nope; I was referring to the o-ring on the cap.
 
OP

DaltonGang

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  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #67
Why, oh why, did they have to screw with the perfectly proven design, of a canister filter, and go with this new design. If it isnt broken, dont fix it!! Now we have a very delicate oil filter system that wants to break, when looked at crosseyed.
 

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