Metal cloak 3.5 and death wobble

[Rodeoflyer]

Oh they built the JL for wheeling, just with fancy new parts and 33'' tires. The JL STOCK could out wheel 99% of the rest of the GLOBE. They're just cruising on their laurels and got lazy.

Furthermore, the suburban women and their 'men' just won the midterms.. which is even more of bellwether that we won't be 4 wheeling much longer.

Jeep will continue to toss dice regarding their 4 wheel roots and suburban controls. they think we should live in human anthills and never 'destroy' the climate

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[Austintatious]

Yeah, I see this a lot with lift kits and oem draglink and tie rod….. they are barely adequate for stock configuration that doesn’t leave the pavement…… Jeep really didn’t build the JL for wheelin, I understand why they did it…. BUT, they took it to far with the weight concerns for fuel mileage….aluminum knuckle, aluminum steering box, ball joints with plastic inserts and steering linkages made from recycled beer cans…..if you’re lifted and on 37s or bigger, and wheel your shit, then the faster you get rid of these things the better……just saying…….

I agree. I'm gonna go ahead with an RPM 2.5 ton solid aluminum steering kit, American Iron ball joint deletes, a Fox 2.0 TS stabilizer and hopefully call it done.

 

[Roky]

I agree. I'm gonna go ahead with an RPM 2.5 ton solid aluminum steering kit, American Iron ball joint deletes, a Fox 2.0 TS stabilizer and hopefully call it done.

I’d also recommend Reid Racing knuckles as well….I’m not a fan of aluminum knuckles…

 

[mikem20]

I’ve read that those American iron ball joints are noisy.

 

[Austintatious]

I’ve read that those American iron ball joints are noisy.

How so?

 

[mikem20]

It’s been documented on here some had said they’re noisy. I’ll see if I can find it.

 

[mikem20]

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...te-kit-too-good-to-be-true.98619/post-2039869

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/ball-joint-delete.83028/post-1746959

 

[Austintatious]

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...te-kit-too-good-to-be-true.98619/post-2039869

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/ball-joint-delete.83028/post-1746959

Thanks! I'm hoping that might be a fluke - of all the other long term reviews I've read and watched, none of them mention any significant noise issues.

 

[Jeff2018]

CarbonSteel,

I could not be happier with that choice and have had no issues with the lift or the jam nuts. I am currently running RockSport shocks and have been pretty happy with them on road, but they may not be the best choice for offroad, particularly if encountering "washboard" type terrain. The oil will heat up pretty fast and the ability to absorb will fade.

I received the HD tie rod and drag link from MC yesterday afternoon. No issues with the install. Although, I did hold off installing the RockSport stabilizer because of a question that Googling hasn't found, and I don't believe it is covered in the installation instructions.

The kit comes with a billet mount clamp for the tie rod. (I have the same one on the stock tie rod that I just removed.). With the way the MC tie rod adjusts toe-in by rotating the tie rod itself, I'm just wondering what you do if you need to change toe on your JL. Do you just try to only rotate the tie rod a full turn so that the threaded bolt opening is at the top each time, or do you loosen the billet mount so that you can turn the tie rod at something other than a full turn?

Thanks for you help.

Jeff

 

[CarbonSteel]

CarbonSteel,



I received the HD tie rod and drag link from MC yesterday afternoon. No issues with the install. Although, I did hold off installing the RockSport stabilizer because of a question that Googling hasn't found, and I don't believe it is covered in the installation instructions.

The kit comes with a billet mount clamp for the tie rod. (I have the same one on the stock tie rod that I just removed.). With the way the MC tie rod adjusts toe-in by rotating the tie rod itself, I'm just wondering what you do if you need to change toe on your JL. Do you just try to only rotate the tie rod a full turn so that the threaded bolt opening is at the top each time, or do you loosen the billet mount so that you can turn the tie rod at something other than a full turn?

Thanks for you help.

Jeff

Loosen the billet clamp so that you can fine tune it. If you have your steering wheel straight (and although it can be tweaked by adjusting the drag link, I mark the exact location (left and right) where the clamp was to have a starting point in case something moves.

 

[Jeff2018]

Hi Again,

Thanks!

I had marked the billet location on the stock tie rod, too. It never moved; but, it is sure a good thing to keep track of.

Jeff

 

[Austintatious]

2021 JLUD with 3.5" GC and 37's update:

Well crap. After having everything re-torqued and alignment checked last week because I would get a tiny bit of bump steer when going over railroad tracks (and then not all the time), the first time I drove it since then, I didn't make it more than a couple of miles without full blown severe death wobble. Need to come to a complete stop before it subsides. Drivers around me are getting quite a show.

And it's consistent - hit a bump, death wobble. Hit an expansion joint, death wobble. Go over a cobblestone section of pavement, death wobble. 30mph, 50mph, doesn't matter.

It's bizarre that this is now happening simply because they retorqued everything but back to the shop. They re-check everything. Caster is 5.5/5.7 just like it was before. Ball joints are tight, no play but they crank them down some more anyway. Frame side of MC trackbar has a tiny amount of play and the Synergy sector shaft brace bearing moves a bit when the steering is turned side to side. Re-check torque on control arms, track bar, tie rod, drag link, etc.

Another road test and death wobble within just a mile.

I've got an RPM 2.5 ton steering kit and Fox steering stabilizer on order anyway, and they are ordering new trackbar bushings from MC and another bearing mount for the Synergy.

Until then, I seriously can't drive this thing.

 

[mikem20]

That sucks man. Do you have your stock tracbar to reinstall and see if that helps?

 

[Jeff2018]

Hey Everyone,

Well.... I installed new ball joints (Dynatrac) and Metal Cloak HD steering (drag link, tie rod and stabilizer) last week.

I drove it to the alignment shop this morning. I knew the toe wasn't perfect. No issues with bump steer or death wobble on the way. Changes made to the toe and centering the steering wheel, although the best they could do with the toe was almost dead forward (not 1/8" in). (The caster was the same as what it was set to in April (6.5 driver, 6.3 passenger), which was what I had hoped it would be.)

Drove it home and it felt good. I've learned not to let one road trip give me a false sense of security. Hopefully only good news to report in the future.

Good luck to all of you chasing this problem. It's really a disappointing thing to go through with a relatively new Jeep.

Jeff

 

[Austintatious]

Spent most of today at the shop after deciding to drive there. Only three episodes of DW along the way LOL

Did several things:

1. Replaced the Synergy sector shaft brace bearing holder. It had play.
2. Complete alignment, after playing with the numbers got caster up to 8 and toe .05 to the outside
3. Threw on a Fox stabilizer until the one I ordered along with the RPM 2.5T steering kit comes in.

That seems to have taken care of the DW. The spongy, floating feeling is gone and it tracks straight. The steering wheel returns to center properly but most importantly there is no more DW or even slight bump steer when going over bumps, dips, and expansion joints.

Should be able to put the RPM kit on next week and see what additional benefits that offers.

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