Maximus 3 Tow Loops

[Twojayhawks]

I too had to grind out that horizontal bracket and weld on both sides about 3/16" not a big deal though. I am also going to drill my loop out as pictured and add another frame bolt as pictured here

Is this a Maximus recommendation?

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[Gaffer]

So you are thinking cap screw rather than bolt with heavy washer?

 

[lightsout]

So you are thinking cap screw rather than bolt with heavy washer?

Yes as there is that recessed hole that is perfect location and I do not want the bolt sticking out too far might be an issue with my winch plate. The Allen head will fit right in there. Note it does require a washer to fill the gap between the loop and the frame though. In the end there will be 5 bolts over all holding this together it should be bomb proof

 

[lightsout]

Is this a Maximus recommendation?

It was my recommendation that they have agreed with and would be benificial.

 

[Bilymac]

Those of you who were able to get Maximus to replace the older 5/8" tow loops, did they replace your Blue Ox tow bar adapters also, or did you have to re-purchase those?

 

[Twojayhawks]

Those of you who were able to get Maximus to replace the older 5/8" tow loops, did they replace your Blue Ox tow bar adapters also, or did you have to re-purchase those?

No. Mine are NSA and I was able to have them bored out to accept the 3/4" loops. You may be able to do the same. Here is mine after making the opening wider.

 

[Bilymac]

I'll look into that as an option, plenty of machine shops in the area.

 

[Twojayhawks]

I like the idea also Lightsout. We are having wonderful cool temps so I dug in last night & drilled out the middle holes to accept the Maximus fasteners. It was quitting time when I saw your post about adding another bolt so I held off putting the bumper back. I thought it best to respond back here as I assume many will be interested. Drilling out the tow loop in the upper cavity looks pretty straight forward. However I assumed you would be drilling out the (both sides) frame & nutting the bolt on the other (outer) side. Sounds like you are going to nut the bolt inside the frame box right?

 

[lightsout]

Those of you who were able to get Maximus to replace the older 5/8" tow loops, did they replace your Blue Ox tow bar adapters also, or did you have to re-purchase those?

My 5/8" were replaced simply becasue they were bent, they would have not replaced otherwise and at the time they replaced with the 3/4 they had discontinued the 5/8" so that was the only option. You do not nessasarily need to replace your clevis if you upgrade. I was able to take mine to a local machine shop where they cut 1/8" wider gap. I believe @Twojayhawks also did that.

 

[lightsout]

I like the idea also Lightsout. We are having wonderful cool temps so I dug in last night & drilled out the middle holes to accept the Maximus fasteners. It was quitting time when I saw your post about adding another bolt so I held off putting the bumper back. I thought it best to respond back here as I assume many will be interested. Drilling out the tow loop in the upper cavity looks pretty straight forward. However I assumed you would be drilling out the (both sides) frame & nutting the bolt on the other (outer) side. Sounds like you are going to nut the bolt inside the frame box right?

Yes in the frame tube only the one side of the frame. Maximus is going to make nuts that have a wire welded to them so you can insert that nut from the front/end of the frame . Watch this video at the 4 minute mark to see what I am referring to. With that said though you could drill both sides of the frame and through bolt since it is in front of the frame horn. Remember you will need a washer to fill the gap between the loop and the frame on that new hole.

 

[Gaffer]

This washer is 2x2 square 3/16 thick with a 1/2 inch hole. It would need to be trimmed down some with a cutoff wheel. How is the thickness for the spacer?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-St...Bearing-Plate-with-1-2-in-Bolt-Dia/1002681728

 

[Twojayhawks]

It won't have to be trimmed much. You can use as much area as the 2"x5" area of the tow loop. I drilled my loops out to add Lightsout's additional bolt. I prolly won't have time to do more till the weekend but I was planning to use the old spacer/thick washers left over from my 5/8" tow loop hardware. Essentially the same spacer I am using in this picture. I just have mine on with 2 sided tape for ease of install.

 

[Gaffer]

Love all the pictures guys. Keep em coming. No need for the rest of us to reinvent the wheel to get the best installations. Love this forum. "It takes a village"!

 

[lightsout]

OK so remove the bumper again to install the 2nd frame bolt. Drilling the tow loop was like butter no problem except the 1st one I did at 3/8 thinking it was 7/16th making it a bitch to then hone out to 7/16th. 2nd loop I used the 1/16th bit and tool maybe 2 minutes. Anyway that is a very easy task to drill those out just make sure you are centered.

Went to Ace hardare to get Socket/Allen bolts and nuts and went with a 1.5" long 12mm, could have used 10mm but wanted that added strength of the 12mm. With the sawsall and metal blade I cut out the front of the bumper plate enough to get a 19mm wrench inside the frame.
To install the tow loop to the rear frame bolt as normal. There will be a gap between the front of the loop bwtween the loop and the frame whcich will need a spacer or washer. Also at Ace I purchased these backing plates that are pre drilled it was a perfect fit this will fill the gap between the new frame bolt hole and the loop and keep everything aligned for the bumper bolts.

To nut up the new frame bolt I put on the washer and lock washer one with needle nose and same to get the nut started (you could also tape the nut to a wrench and feed it into the frame).

I used RED locktite on all the bolts this thing should be bomb proof now. No other base plate is anywhere near this robust when paired with the tire rod. Note in stead of cutting out the bumper plate you could drill through the other side of the frame and thru bolt however the gap between the bumper tie in bracket on the outside frame is very narrow, you would have to use a narrow nut and skinny wahser then cut off any excess bolt even then it will be tight but I think it is doable. The way I bolted to the inside of the frame is the same way Blue Ox ties to the frame so I know that is a industry accepted connection.

After done I painted all the bolts and a fresh coat on the tow loop and bumper plate

Anyone intersted I have the Baricade Alloy (Aluminum bumper) and the Maximus is a perfect fit no bumper mod required

 

[Gaffer]

Is the gap pictured a problem?

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