I too was forced to address the short bolt syndrome to fit my Roadmater Falcon II tow bar system on my RV. The clevis is different from the one Maximis sells for Blue Ox. I also called Maximus to get the tie rod only after finding the flyer insert in the tow loop package I had bought earlier. Faced with traveling in 2 days earlier this week I phoned them about shipping overnight. Freight was 50 bucks and they offered a 10 percent discount to help offset. I am not about to tow my JL with out it and already mounted the tow loops the previous weekend. Almost abandoned Maximus for the Roadmaster baseplate system I have on my Gladiator which is more robust connection to the frame and places thick washers/spacers for between the frame and accessory mount that the Maximus tow loop bolts too. I’ve seen some damage to that area on this forum. But the Roadmaster is clunky and rattles more than I like. The Maximus loops are much more aesthetically pleasing for the JL. As mentioned I had to go to Ace for longer 1/2” grade 8 bolts and nylon washers. I also have their Pioneer rack on top that bolts to roll cage and that system is sound. Anyway hope this helps someone, call them. They acknowledge that damage will occur if you flat tow without the tie rod.Ok, finally got my RV back from warranty work. I attached the tow bar to my wife's Grand Cherokee L to make it a bit easier to work around. For reference, I have the RoadMaster Sterling tow bar, tow defender, and an ACE bumper.
The bolts Maximus sent were way too short for the application. Fortunately, I had a few grade 8 bolts sitting around. You can see various views of the setup below. If you leave the bar attached, it will create a triangle that can be strapped down. This would be for short movement around a campground as it will not allow for the tailgate to be opened. On the RV that would not matter much, just looks messy.
Maximus told me that they are working on a quick release bolt for one end. That would make folding it down a no tool event which would be nice. I just worry about the strength of the bolt they are referring to and will post it if they send me one. With one end of the bar unbolted, you can fold the tow bar back into the OEM bag and just strap the rod back to prevent it from dropping down.
This option pictured does not fix the lateral tow loop bending issue if anything it makes it worse. My Tow loop bent between the tow holes (Safety chain hole and clevis attach hole) your tow loop will still easily bend especially since the arms of the tow bar will be independent and impalanced meaning if you stop nid turn all the pressure is on one tow loop whereas with the tie rod on the tow bar itself then displaces those forces onto both tow loops. The Tie Rod MUST be on the tow bar otherwise you still have the un equal lateral forces on a single tow loop. Unfortunately this fixes very little.Going to continue using the Maximus-3 tow loops until I decide on what bumpers I'll be upgrading too. Received the parts to triangulate my Blue OX which I completed. I'm also going to use a 1 1/2 DOM tubing from a left over project which I will bolt thru the hook holes on the Maximus-3. Then weld on appropriate hooks for the safety cables on the 1 1/2 DOM. Here is a photo from tread #13 that I will copy plus the safety chain hooks. I know it may be overkill, but you never know.
You are solid since this is just a added 2nd tie rod. Maximus has a bracket being released soon that will actually tie the loops into the frame you will also want those. The only downside to that tie rod location is it is extremely vulnerable when wheeling. I assume it removes easy enough though.Lightsout, I have the brace on the Blue Ox tow bar, just wanted to supplement the tow loop with the DOM tubing bracing. Am I reading your comment correctly this won't help.
Did you see my picture earlier? You are missing a sleeve for the end of your Roadmaster rod where it goes into the clevis. Is your fix above the fix from Maximus or your own shot at making it easier?So my loops were slightly bent ou but maybe 1/8 of an inch. My bolts were also to short but these pins I had fit perfect. I have looked and felt on the inside of the frame and can’t feel a crack or anything out of the normal. I also had to run the eyelets out some to make the connection. I guess it will be fine? What are your thoughts?
This is the maximus disconnect. The nut is fused to the bolt si it allows for the clevis to be more firmly clamped to the arm then allowing the tie rod to float on top. I think you need to be very careful there is NO slop or excessive movement in the arm to clevis connection whereas a pin without threads to tighten down like pictured above might be problematic. Also there cannot be any slop in the pin/bolt diameter and fit.Did you see my picture earlier? You are missing a sleeve for the end of your Roadmaster rod where it goes into the clevis. Is your fix above the fix from Maximus or your own shot at making it easier?