Maximus-3 Tow Loops - Which Tow Bars are you using?

[dgreen1069]

I just picked up my 2020 Rubicon and I need to get it ready for flat towing. I REALLY like the look of the Maximus-3 tow loops, but they have a disclaimer that they only work with Blue Ox tow bars. I'd like to use the Ready Brute Elite 2 tow bars with integrated surge brakes as it eliminates the need for a separate braking device (at a cost of nearly $1k).

Is anyone using the Maximus-3 tow loops with Ready Brute or Roadmaster tow bars?

Along the same lines, is anyone using the Ready Brute Elite? If so, how do you like it?

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[MtCamper]

That's an interesting concept but I'm not sure how you would route the cable to reach the brake pedal but their website says it only takes 30 minutes on a Wrangler. Those do look good and don't seem to hang down much. I went with a RockHard aluminum bumper with the steering shield and BlueOx bars. I was able to pick up an older Brake Buddy for only $25. I use the Harbor Freight magnetic lights for brake and turn signals. I tow my Jeep behind my fifth wheel and I do have the in cab monitor to see when they activate. So far they have never activated but then I 've never had an aggressive stop with it in tow. I had to get a different receiver ball to properly level the tow bars. Depends on how your tow vehicle sits. I'd address your question to the Manufacturer. They do have an adapter to use their surge brake system with the BlueOx bars. That may be your least expensive option.

 

[mwpncookeville]

I just picked up my 2020 Rubicon and I need to get it ready for flat towing. I REALLY like the look of the Maximus-3 tow loops, but they have a disclaimer that they only work with Blue Ox tow bars. I'd like to use the Ready Brute Elite 2 tow bars with integrated surge brakes as it eliminates the need for a separate braking device (at a cost of nearly $1k).

Is anyone using the Maximus-3 tow loops with Ready Brute or Roadmaster tow bars?

Along the same lines, is anyone using the Ready Brute Elite? If so, how do you like it?

Hi dgreen, like you I intend to use the ReadyBrute tow bar and was planning to use the Maximus-3 tow loops. Were you able to make this work? Anything you would have done differently?? Thanks!

 

[dgreen1069]

Hi dgreen, like you I intend to use the ReadyBrute tow bar and was planning to use the Maximus-3 tow loops. Were you able to make this work? Anything you would have done differently?? Thanks!

I didn't have the best experience with ReadyBrute. I sent them my tow loops so they could confirm they had clevises that would fit the loops perfectly. I was originally told they could make clevises if they didn't have something already.

I was told they had clevises that would work and I purchased their ReadyBrute Elite 2 system. When it arrived, I immediately found that the clevises did not fit the loops at all. The clevises had 1" pins and were about 1/4 wider than the loops. Even with the correct pins there would have been a bunch of slop with the top loops.

When I contacted ReadyBrute, they told me the new Elite 2 tow bar has steal clevises and it isn't cost effective for them to make customized clevises like they used to with the original Elite.

I decided to go another route and purchased the aluminum Blue Ox tow bar with their off-road clevises (which fit perfectly). Right after I ordered the Blue Ox, the ReadyBrute people contacted me and said they now had enough interest in clevises for the Maximus tow loops that they were going to manufacturer the correct size.

Long story short, I had a ReadyBrute in my possession but never installed it. I ended up eating half the shipping charges for the hitch which left me a bit annoyed. The Blue Ox bar I purchased worked great the one trip I've used it for so far. I was lucky enough to have been given a Brake Buddy classic from a friend so that took a bit of the sting out.

I think ReadyBrute has the correct clevises now, but I'd call to make sure. I thought it was crappy I sent them my loops and they sent me clevises that clearly would not work out of the box. Hopefully my efforts help others down the road.

 

[mwpncookeville]

I didn't have the best experience with ReadyBrute. I sent them my tow loops so they could confirm they had clevises that would fit the loops perfectly. I was originally told they could make clevises if they didn't have something already.

I was told they had clevises that would work and I purchased their ReadyBrute Elite 2 system. When it arrived, I immediately found that the clevises did not fit the loops at all. The clevises had 1" pins and were about 1/4 wider than the loops. Even with the correct pins there would have been a bunch of slop with the top loops.

When I contacted ReadyBrute, they told me the new Elite 2 tow bar has steal clevises and it isn't cost effective for them to make customized clevises like they used to with the original Elite.

I decided to go another route and purchased the aluminum Blue Ox tow bar with their off-road clevises (which fit perfectly). Right after I ordered the Blue Ox, the ReadyBrute people contacted me and said they now had enough interest in clevises for the Maximus tow loops that they were going to manufacturer the correct size.

Long story short, I had a ReadyBrute in my possession but never installed it. I ended up eating half the shipping charges for the hitch which left me a bit annoyed. The Blue Ox bar I purchased worked great the one trip I've used it for so far. I was lucky enough to have been given a Brake Buddy classic from a friend so that took a bit of the sting out.

I think ReadyBrute has the correct clevises now, but I'd call to make sure. I thought it was crappy I sent them my loops and they sent me clevises that clearly would not work out of the box. Hopefully my efforts help others down the road.

Sorry for your troubles, glad you got it all worked out, and thanks for the feedback!

 

[kosinar]

I just picked up my 2020 Rubicon and I need to get it ready for flat towing. I REALLY like the look of the Maximus-3 tow loops, but they have a disclaimer that they only work with Blue Ox tow bars. I'd like to use the Ready Brute Elite 2 tow bars with integrated surge brakes as it eliminates the need for a separate braking device (at a cost of nearly $1k).

Is anyone using the Maximus-3 tow loops with Ready Brute or Roadmaster tow bars?

Along the same lines, is anyone using the Ready Brute Elite? If so, how do you like it?

I Just finished installation and testing of the ready brute elite towing system. I like the concept. I did not wan to fiddle with portable breaking unit. I am also using Maximus 3 loops. I have Mopar flat tow wire harness installed and it is working well sending rv break and turn signals to jeep. Some people like Cootech wire harness. I am not using in dash break monitoring that came with elite package. After I adjusted cable operating break pedal I setup camcorder in jeep to monitor pedal during towing test. It is all working as it should. I can see break pedal being pulled when I apply breaks on rv. I will install tpms sensors on jeep tires and monitor pressure and temperature on my rv tpms system to prevent potential overheating of jeep breaks.I do not like clevises that came with the unit. They are huge and heavy. It looks like typical Chinese made crap. I modified them to make them more compact and lighter. I have access to machine shop. Installation is not very complicated. I watched few videos of installation before I did mine. I would do it again if I had to decide between other concepts.

 

[gm920]

I just picked up my 2020 Rubicon and I need to get it ready for flat towing. I REALLY like the look of the Maximus-3 tow loops, but they have a disclaimer that they only work with Blue Ox tow bars. I'd like to use the Ready Brute Elite 2 tow bars with integrated surge brakes as it eliminates the need for a separate braking device (at a cost of nearly $1k).
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Is anyone using the Maximus-3 tow loops with Ready Brute or Roadmaster tow bars?

Along the same lines, is anyone using the Ready Brute Elite? If so, how do you like it?

Currently setting mine up to flat tow using the NSA Ready Brute Elite. Went with the Rock Jock (Currie) Tow Bar Mounting Kit, also advertised to be compatible with Blue Ox. This is the two tab style with 1/2" pin, a very common style that NSA does make available for the Ready Brute/Ready Brute Elite. The Currie plate replaces the factory steel skid and puts the tow bar connection in about the same location as the Maximus3 Tow Loops. No cutting of the bumper required. Have not installed the brake cable in the jeep yet, hope to get that done this week. Can't go anywhere just yet so no rush.
I towed my TJ for about 8 years and probably 30+ thousand miles using the Readybrake Towed Vehicle Receiver Style Supplemental Brake System and a Roadmaster Falcon Tow Bar, worked great. Only had one problem with the ready brake, likely caused by me having the brake cable too tight. NSA replaced the damaged parts at no cost to me, and I was not even the original owner.
Tow lights, I want to thank cooltech for reminding me what I did on my CJ5, adding the 4 pole double throw switch. A little more involved on the JL but still an easy DIY if you comfortable doing wiring. Kudo's to them I think they sell some great products, but I am a cheapskate. Their harness is over $200 with tax and shipping. I think I spent about $40.

 

[mwpncookeville]

Currently setting mine up to flat tow using the NSA Ready Brute Elite. Went with the Rock Jock (Currie) Tow Bar Mounting Kit, also advertised to be compatible with Blue Ox. This is the two tab style with 1/2" pin, a very common style that NSA does make available for the Ready Brute/Ready Brute Elite. The Currie plate replaces the factory steel skid and puts the tow bar connection in about the same location as the Maximus3 Tow Loops. No cutting of the bumper required. Have not installed the brake cable in the jeep yet, hope to get that done this week. Can't go anywhere just yet so no rush.
I towed my TJ for about 8 years and probably 30+ thousand miles using the Readybrake Towed Vehicle Receiver Style Supplemental Brake System and a Roadmaster Falcon Tow Bar, worked great. Only had one problem with the ready brake, likely caused by me having the brake cable too tight. NSA replaced the damaged parts at no cost to me, and I was not even the original owner.
Tow lights, I want to thank cooltech for reminding me what I did on my CJ5, adding the 4 pole double throw switch. A little more involved on the JL but still an easy DIY if you comfortable doing wiring. Kudo's to them I think they sell some great products, but I am a cheapskate. Their harness is over $200 with tax and shipping. I think I spent about $40.

Thanks for the picture and the explanation - Did you notice if the front sway bars and any other items in the front that would normally be behind the factory steel skid plate were more exposed after the Currie Tow bar? Also, the connector mounting in the front, is that where you decided to place it, or is that how Currie provides it? Thanks.

 

[Jmonroe]

Just thinking of the long grades where I've had to use the engine brakes extensively on the coach to control speed, invented in part to keep you from burning up the truck/coach service brakes. How do you avoid destroying your toad brakes under these conditions?

Surge brakes might make sense for small trailers towed short distances, I say MIGHT. I'd not want to rely on them when towing something weighing 4500 lbs or more.

Bite the bullet, invest either in one of the portables (which I gave up years ago for various reasons) or one of the integrated air or electric systems. I think long term you'll save wear & tear, or possibly worse, on the Jeep and be safer.

More directly to your question, most tow bar manufacturers sell replacement ends/connectors that can be used with the Maximus tow loops. I use a Blue Ox towbar with the tow loops.

 

[kosinar]

Just thinking of the long grades where I've had to use the engine brakes extensively on the coach to control speed, invented in part to keep you from burning up the truck/coach service brakes. How do you avoid destroying your toad brakes under these conditions?

Surge brakes might make sense for small trailers towed short distances, I say MIGHT. I'd not want to rely on them when towing something weighing 4500 lbs or more.

Bite the bullet, invest either in one of the portables (which I gave up years ago for various reasons) or one of the integrated air or electric systems. I think long term you'll save wear & tear, or possibly worse, on the Jeep and be safer.

More directly to your question, most tow bar manufacturers sell replacement ends/connectors that can be used with the Maximus tow loops. I use a Blue Ox towbar with the tow loops.

Are you speaking from experience or you are just speculating? I did choose Readybrute because other people’s experience. Some of them posted on this forum. Do you know something we don’t? If you do please elaborate. People are coming here to find information and seeking advice. I did and it helped me to make informed decision. Only actual experience is valuable. Opinions should have disclaimer as being opinions only.

 

[Jmonroe]

Are you speaking from experience or you are just speculating.?.

First off you're right, I have no experience towing a Jeep attached to a surge brake and it probably would have been polite to say so. I do have experience towing a 3500 lb boat on a surge equipped trailer and I hated it. Maybe it wasn't adjusted correctly but it seemed I had to be aggressive on the brake pedal or the trailer brake wouldn't engage. The boat would try to push me into an intersection unless I stabbed the pedal hard. Others said I'd get used to the different "feel" with time. I always found it annoying but never did anything to change them out as over the years my towing that boat was limited to dragging it from storage to our slip or back just a couple times of year.

As you're no doubt aware, the surge brake uses the weight and inertia of whatever you're towing to apply the brakes, essentially pushing against the tow vehicle/hitch. If nothing else it delays application for what could be a critical second or two in an emergency situation. The proportional braking action offered by the integrated systems will apply smoothly and, as the description suggests, in direct proportion to the force you're applying to the tow vehicle brake pedal. You should never feel it, unlike the "bump" I'd get from the surge brake. In my scenario of rolling down a steep grade the brakes won't be activated unless or until I hit the brake pedal.

Again, I've never used the system you've adapted but the physics and mechanics involved just don't add up for me not to mention, I can't imagine it's any simpler to install.

 

[gm920]

Thanks for the picture and the explanation - Did you notice if the front sway bars and any other items in the front that would normally be behind the factory steel skid plate were more exposed after the Currie Tow bar? Also, the connector mounting in the front, is that where you decided to place it, or is that how Currie provides it? Thanks.

The Currie plate provides as much or more protection than the factory skid, and does not hang down as low. It is a heaver gauge metal and bolts to more points on the bumper, and the big bolts on the inside of the frame horns, where jeep had a flimsy bracket to hold the rear of the skid. The tow light connector location was my choice, Currie does not provide anything for that.

 

[gm920]

First off you're right, I have no experience towing a Jeep attached to a surge brake and it probably would have been polite to say so. I do have experience towing a 3500 lb boat on a surge equipped trailer and I hated it. Maybe it wasn't adjusted correctly but it seemed I had to be aggressive on the brake pedal or the trailer brake wouldn't engage. The boat would try to push me into an intersection unless I stabbed the pedal hard. Others said I'd get used to the different "feel" with time. I always found it annoying but never did anything to change them out as over the years my towing that boat was limited to dragging it from storage to our slip or back just a couple times of year.

As you're no doubt aware, the surge brake uses the weight and inertia of whatever you're towing to apply the brakes, essentially pushing against the tow vehicle/hitch. If nothing else it delays application for what could be a critical second or two in an emergency situation. The proportional braking action offered by the integrated systems will apply smoothly and, as the description suggests, in direct proportion to the force you're applying to the tow vehicle brake pedal. You should never feel it, unlike the "bump" I'd get from the surge brake. In my scenario of rolling down a steep grade the brakes won't be activated unless or until I hit the brake pedal.

Again, I've never used the system you've adapted but the physics and mechanics involved just don't add up for me not to mention, I can't imagine it's any simpler to install.

I have some experience, about 33,000 miles towing my TJ behind my Diesel Pusher using the Ready Brake and about another 5,000 behind a gas coach. I have also owned a small cargo trailer (Mortorcycles/ATV's) with a hydraulic surge brake. Comparing that to the Ready Brake is like comparing Apple and Android. Unless your boat trailer was new or meticulously maintained, I can imagine that hydraulic surge brake being a little sketchy. The Ready Brake is directly connected to the towed vehicles brake pedal and apples the brakes proportional to the amount of force applied by the weight of the vehicle against the tow vehicle. The harder your braking, the more the pedal moves. Engine braking on a grade PAC brake on my diesel has no effect on the surge brake, unless you need to add some manual braking then you may get some towed braking. It is the same as coasting to a stop, both vehicles moving at the same speed. I have worn the tires out on my TJ dragging it around the USA and a fair amount of Canada, with no additional brake wear. Installation is much simpler than most all other supplemental braking systems and the cost is far less. So I will install the same in my new JLUR and let everyone know how it works on this one, if I ever get to go somewhere.
If I was rich I would get the Air Force One system since I have a diesel. Or the SMI Stay N Play for a gas coach, both much more work to install.

 

[Jmonroe]

gm920, not to bust your chops, but out of genuine curiosity, how many miles did you get on that TJs brakes before major service or replacement?

 

[gm920]

gm920, not to bust your chops, but out of genuine curiosity, how many miles did you get on that TJs brakes before major service or replacement?

I put new brakes pads and rotors on the front when I bought it rotors were warped, had about 73,000 miles then. About 112,000 now, somewhere in between there replaced rear pads. that has been the only brakes service. It is not a daily driver.

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