Jgeiken

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Rubitrux is correct, the finish has nothing to do with the structural integrity of the Tow Loop.

A few things:
1. We acknowledge that we had a batch of Tow Loops with subpar powder-coat adhesion. We changed our processes to resolve the coating issue on this product.

2. We stand behind our 1-year powder coat warranty. Anyone with chipping or flaking can reach out to [email protected] to start a warranty claim.

3. Metal to Metal contact will definitely wear away powder coat, nothing we can do about that.
I can speak to their warranty. I had a loop where the front pin hole was *slightly* out of spec. They sent me a new one right away.





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DadJokes

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Rubitrux is correct, the finish has nothing to do with the structural integrity of the Tow Loop.

A few things:
1. We acknowledge that we had a batch of Tow Loops with subpar powder-coat adhesion. We changed our processes to resolve the coating issue on this product.

2. We stand behind our 1-year powder coat warranty. Anyone with chipping or flaking can reach out to [email protected] to start a warranty claim.

3. Metal to Metal contact will definitely wear away powder coat, nothing we can do about that.
Good to hear and agree on the metal to metal contact point.
 

Doug Huse

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Maximus-3 has top notch customer service. ***** Only problem is having the old loops removed and the new ones put on.
 

Jgeiken

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Maximus-3 has top notch customer service. ***** Only problem is having the old loops removed and the new ones put on.
It took me less than 5 minutes to replace mine. Take the skid plate off and the old one comes off easily, as well as the new one going right on. No need to remove the bumper.
 

DadJokes

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Well, I got the swap done. I replaced the ones that were from a defective batch with a new set Maximus-3 sent me right away. :like:

Heads up to a possible setback like I had. On the driver’s side, I had a factory welded nut inside the frame decide it wanted to let go of the frame and spin with the bolt when trying to remove the bolt. Grr. Just my damn luck. AT LEAST it was the end of the frame rail and I could reach it with my welder. Since the license plate covers the plastic bumper there anyway, I chose the easy route and removed the plate and cut a large enough notch (dremel using carbide router bit and a cartridge roll for a cleaner look) from the bottom to reach the inside of the frame rail and remove some paint to lay an ugly few beads (flux core, poor ground, and 10 years since welding lol) to make sure it would hold 94 fl lbs. I used a carbide and some acetone to clean it up some before spraying some black paint to protect the repair. I put the plate back on and you don’t even notice the little bit of notch that’s visible.

For the record I used a few drops of BLUE, not red, Loctite during the install and an impact to remove it so maybe between the shock of the impact and the grip of the blue loctite it overcame the strength of the frames factory welded nut? *shrug* So maybe just use a breaker bar/hand tool instead. It might save somebody a headache.

Looks great now and the coating DID NOT lift up and flake off this time!:clap:

EABDCC87-5414-4A08-8E8A-8207903795D1.jpeg
 
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Andbaynard

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23430400-AC2E-4077-8588-BB1BB7260E35.jpeg

Bumper done. Now time for skid plate next. If anyone has any questions and about to install your front tow hooks, just ask me and I share my experience.
C190F2B4-B8DB-469F-8773-95BBB3B9AF32.jpeg
 
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trurob777

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I am using the Maximus-3 tow loops with a Rugged Ridge Arcus winch bumper on my Gladiator. The Arcus provided bolts were not long enough to get through the added width of the beefy Maximus tow loops. No problem. I replaced all the Arcus bolts with longer grade 8 bolts. I have towed the Jeep on a few trips since installing. It tows better than the previous JK 2 dr, and the Maximus tow bar mounts have not budged. Happy customer.
MaximusArcus.jpg
Hi, I have this same bumper and looking for a solution to flat tow. Did you have to cut into the bumper to install the Maximus tow loops?

Also, any reason why you shouldn't tow from the tow hooks already installed on the bumper? Blue Ox makes some adapters to be able to connect to them.
 

TJDave

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Hi, I have this same bumper and looking for a solution to flat tow. Did you have to cut into the bumper to install the Maximus tow loops?

Also, any reason why you shouldn't tow from the tow hooks already installed on the bumper? Blue Ox makes some adapters to be able to connect to them.
Yes, some minor trimming of the outer shell of the bumper and the stock skid plate.

The Maximus-3 loops tie into the frame as well as two of the front bumper mounting bolts. I personally would not rely on the Arcus Hooks without frame reinforcement brackets. I also use Blue Ox adaptors for my tow bar. I am not sure they would fit over the Arcus hooks. They are pretty big.
 

DadJokes

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Well, I got the swap done. I replaced the ones that were from a defective batch with a new set Maximus-3 sent me right away. :like:

Heads up to a possible setback like I had. On the driver’s side, I had a factory welded nut inside the frame decide it wanted to let go of the frame and spin with the bolt when trying to remove the bolt. Grr. Just my damn luck. AT LEAST it was the end of the frame rail and I could reach it with my welder. Since the license plate covers the plastic bumper there anyway, I chose the easy route and removed the plate and cut a large enough notch (dremel using carbide router bit and a cartridge roll for a cleaner look) from the bottom to reach the inside of the frame rail and remove some paint to lay an ugly few beads (flux core, poor ground, and 10 years since welding lol) to make sure it would hold 94 fl lbs. I used a carbide and some acetone to clean it up some before spraying some black paint to protect the repair. I put the plate back on and you don’t even notice the little bit of notch that’s visible.

For the record I used a few drops of BLUE, not red, Loctite during the install and an impact to remove it so maybe between the shock of the impact and the grip of the blue loctite it overcame the strength of the frames factory welded nut? *shrug* So maybe just use a breaker bar/hand tool instead. It might save somebody a headache.

Looks great now and the coating DID NOT lift up and flake off this time!:clap:

EABDCC87-5414-4A08-8E8A-8207903795D1.jpeg
I started working on replacing my bumper end caps etc to get the rear bumper to match up to the newly installed Rubicon flares. That’s when I also found that there was already rust on at least one tow loop due to coating lift and cracking again. That’s disappointing.
 

trurob777

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Yes, some minor trimming of the outer shell of the bumper and the stock skid plate.

The Maximus-3 loops tie into the frame as well as two of the front bumper mounting bolts. I personally would not rely on the Arcus Hooks without frame reinforcement brackets. I also use Blue Ox adaptors for my tow bar. I am not sure they would fit over the Arcus hooks. They are pretty big.
Thanks! Seems like the Maximus-3 loops are the way to go (can't compromise safety).

Blue-Ox makes adapters that have a 1" wide opening that could fit the Arcus tow hooks. I'm shying away from this solution.
 

LooselyHeldPlans

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@Maximus-3

I’ve had your tow loops installed for nearly a year and am very impressed! If I could offer one suggestion it would be to include a printed out template for the required cutting. Something like a simple pice of paper with spots to line up along present holes that would identify exactly where to drill the pilot hole.

Additionally, with the front tow loops, I have zero need for the heavy factory ones. Could I replace these with high quality washers? If not, you guys should offer a piece of aluminum that would take its place. Maybe the top could have a tapped surface for mounting lights or other accessories. Getting rid of these could easily save 10-15 lbs from the very front of the car.

anyways, thanks so much for the great products. I can’t wait to see what else you offer in the future.
 

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