Jgeiken

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Rubitrux is correct, the finish has nothing to do with the structural integrity of the Tow Loop.

A few things:
1. We acknowledge that we had a batch of Tow Loops with subpar powder-coat adhesion. We changed our processes to resolve the coating issue on this product.

2. We stand behind our 1-year powder coat warranty. Anyone with chipping or flaking can reach out to [email protected] to start a warranty claim.

3. Metal to Metal contact will definitely wear away powder coat, nothing we can do about that.
I can speak to their warranty. I had a loop where the front pin hole was *slightly* out of spec. They sent me a new one right away.





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DadJokes

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Rubitrux is correct, the finish has nothing to do with the structural integrity of the Tow Loop.

A few things:
1. We acknowledge that we had a batch of Tow Loops with subpar powder-coat adhesion. We changed our processes to resolve the coating issue on this product.

2. We stand behind our 1-year powder coat warranty. Anyone with chipping or flaking can reach out to [email protected] to start a warranty claim.

3. Metal to Metal contact will definitely wear away powder coat, nothing we can do about that.
Good to hear and agree on the metal to metal contact point.
 

Doug Huse

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Maximus-3 has top notch customer service. ***** Only problem is having the old loops removed and the new ones put on.
 

Jgeiken

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Maximus-3 has top notch customer service. ***** Only problem is having the old loops removed and the new ones put on.
It took me less than 5 minutes to replace mine. Take the skid plate off and the old one comes off easily, as well as the new one going right on. No need to remove the bumper.
 

DadJokes

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Well, I got the swap done. I replaced the ones that were from a defective batch with a new set Maximus-3 sent me right away. :like:

Heads up to a possible setback like I had. On the driver’s side, I had a factory welded nut inside the frame decide it wanted to let go of the frame and spin with the bolt when trying to remove the bolt. Grr. Just my damn luck. AT LEAST it was the end of the frame rail and I could reach it with my welder. Since the license plate covers the plastic bumper there anyway, I chose the easy route and removed the plate and cut a large enough notch (dremel using carbide router bit and a cartridge roll for a cleaner look) from the bottom to reach the inside of the frame rail and remove some paint to lay an ugly few beads (flux core, poor ground, and 10 years since welding lol) to make sure it would hold 94 fl lbs. I used a carbide and some acetone to clean it up some before spraying some black paint to protect the repair. I put the plate back on and you don’t even notice the little bit of notch that’s visible.

For the record I used a few drops of BLUE, not red, Loctite during the install and an impact to remove it so maybe between the shock of the impact and the grip of the blue loctite it overcame the strength of the frames factory welded nut? *shrug* So maybe just use a breaker bar/hand tool instead. It might save somebody a headache.

Looks great now and the coating DID NOT lift up and flake off this time!:clap:

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Andbaynard

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Bumper done. Now time for skid plate next. If anyone has any questions and about to install your front tow hooks, just ask me and I share my experience.
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