Manual Transmission and T-Case Fluid Change Today

OceanBlues

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Thanks; I was thinking about trapping any particles between changes. Are these 1/2" NPT?
Not sure, but I feel like it's probably something metric since it took a metric allen Key to remove them (I wanna say 10mm)
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bwright1818

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ATF in a manual transmission isn't anything new to Jeep. My two 1976 CJ5s used it. I remember I could go through all three gears, up and down, without pushing in the clutch, if I was careful. (Don't ask me why I even tried this...."We choose to go to the moon and do the other things, not because they are easy; but because they are hard.") Anyway, the point is, it makes a good tranny fluid because it is so fluid. My TJ was a little tough to shift in the cold until it warmed up, with the more conventional gear oil.
 

jeepdabest

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Very good write up, thank you.

I changed fluids in my transmission and t case today. I recommend just unbolting the skid plate before draining the t case, made things really simple.

FYI, anybody confused where the T case drain and fill plugs are, they are on the back face of the T case. If anybody needs help identifying any of the plugs, let me know and I can go take some photos of mine.

BTW, my T case fluids looked very fresh. If you rarely shift into 4wd, you can probably go a while between changing fluids there.

Next project is changing rear diff fluids, figure I don't need to do the front for a while, since like I said, I rarely am in 4wd.
Do you HAVE to remove skid plate? And if so is it difficult?
 

OceanBlues

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Do you HAVE to remove skid plate? And if so is it difficult?
It's pretty easy, just 4 bolts. I used an impact driver and got it off in less than 30 seconds and it went back on about that quick.

You don't have to remove it, but I think you'll find it's a lot easier to access everything if you just get it out of the way.
 

OceanBlues

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Btw, I did change the diff fluids since that original post, and it was incredibly easy. I was expecting to need to remove the covers and have a huge mess and have to replace a gasket... but it was as simple as unbolting a drain plug, wrapping the threads in thread sealing tape, putting the drain plug back in place, and then filling through the fill plug hole until it overflowed (and re-installing the fill plug).

I'm sure there are plenty of Youtube videos out there for all the maintenance work you can do without taking your JL to the shop, but if there's any interest in me recording each time I perform maintenance on my JL to share on here so that it's easy to ask questions and get quick answers, let me know.
 

jeepdabest

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It's pretty easy, just 4 bolts. I used an impact driver and got it off in less than 30 seconds and it went back on about that quick.

You don't have to remove it, but I think you'll find it's a lot easier to access everything if you just get it out of the way.
Sorry to be dragging this out....if I have sockets and a ratchet and girlie arms can I get it off without impact driver.
 

jeepdabest

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Btw, I did change the diff fluids since that original post, and it was incredibly easy. I was expecting to need to remove the covers and have a huge mess and have to replace a gasket... but it was as simple as unbolting a drain plug, wrapping the threads in thread sealing tape, putting the drain plug back in place, and then filling through the fill plug hole until it overflowed (and re-installing the fill plug).

I'm sure there are plenty of Youtube videos out there for all the maintenance work you can do without taking your JL to the shop, but if there's any interest in me recording each time I perform maintenance on my JL to share on here so that it's easy to ask questions and get quick answers, let me know.
Yes!!! There is one video I've seen regarding JL diff fluid change....just one. Zero on transfer case of manual tranny change on JL. Very surprising
 

OceanBlues

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Sorry to be dragging this out....if I have sockets and a ratchet and girlie arms can I get it off without impact driver.
Shouldn't be a problem, the torque wasn't that high on them and they aren't in an awkward location, so it's not like you're stuck making 1/4 turns while racking your knuckles against a cross member. A ratchet should be fine.
 

jeepdabest

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Shouldn't be a problem, the torque wasn't that high on them and they aren't in an awkward location, so it's not like you're stuck making 1/4 turns while racking your knuckles against a cross member. A ratchet should be fine.
Thanks for your help!
 

cb4017

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Nice writeup...I wonder why the ATF-4 bottle specifies Automatic transmission fluid...yet its also used for manuals?
ATF in manual transmissions is not unusual. My 98 F-150 with MT uses ATF. Pushing 250,000 miles with no problems. I've only changed it twice.
 
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ATF in manual transmissions is not unusual. My 98 F-150 with MT uses ATF. Pushing 250,000 miles with no problems. I've only changed it twice.
Yep, manuals are MUCH easier on fluid than an auto because they don't even get close to generating as much heat. ATF+4 is made for high stress and high heat, so it will have an easy life in there. I won't be the one testing it, but as long as the level stayed topped off, the ATF+4 could probably last the life of the vehicle without changing it.

I changed the ATF in my old F150's transfer case at about 90k miles and 14 or 15 years. It looked like new except maybe very slightly darker. I think if I'd had it analyzed they would have said it was in good shape.
 

jeepdabest

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I changed the manual transmission fluid today, at 20,148 miles. It was quick and easy and not too messy. Just make sure you don't lose the little metal washer/gasket on the drain plug. Mine fell off and I discovered it after I had filled it up with new fluid, so I had to fix that quickly while trying to lose as little of the new fluid as possible. I wound up losing 3/4 of a quart. Oh well, ATF+4 is cheap. I went with NAPA synthetic ATF+4, which is Valvoline. It is a fair deal at $7 a quart. It took very slightly over 2 quarts.

I then changed the T-case fluid. That is quite a bit messier because of the skid plate and because the fluid shoots waaay out from the drain hole. I used some Castrol left over from my JK T-case change last September and Valvoline ATF+4 for this.

Note: The Napa is Valvoline bottled for NAPA. It is maybe 70 or 80 cents cheaper per quart than the Valvoline branded bottles at Walmart. The T-case took very close to 2 quarts. All ATF+4 is essentially the same, anyway, so I'm not super picky. I've run Castrol and even Autozone brand before in other vehicles and the all are fine.

I typically change tranny, T-case, and diff fluids every 25-30k miles. I like doing the first one a little before that to get break in crap out of it.

Here is the transmission from the driver's side. The front of the Jeep is to the left. You'll need a bottle pump with a tube to reach the fill hole. The drain hole goes straight down and barely touches a brace nearly under it, so it is a much cleaner drain process than the JK's NSG370, which drains right on top of the exhaust pipe and requires an improvised tool to get it loose. The Aisin in the JL is a straight shot with a 24mm socket.

R0uFbKZ.jpg


Here is the transmission drain plug. The magnet has trapped a fair amount of metal shavings. (Normal and about what I expected for the break-in period and 20k miles.) The pic after that is the plug all cleaned up.
Q49csYW.jpg

4GaVOxK.jpg

Napa ATF+4. It says right on the back that it is made by Valvoline. No secret there. Valvoline makes most, if not all of Napa brand oil, gear lube, and transmission fluids. Good stuff.
l9HGJrh.jpg
Are both bolts 24mm?
 
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DanW

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Rico1111

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Question for the OP ....I crawled under mine today and easily found the drain plug ..but was at a loss finding the fill plug! I have the manual also and have had some drips out of the drain plug ......crawled under today to drain and fill and put some permatex on drain bolt but for the life of me could not figure out which was the fill plug. There was a bolt with not much grab on the drivers side of case but was not sure if this was fill hole so I abandoned my task to find a schematic online to give me the exact location. I'm sure it is stupid simple but at 59 crawling around under the jeep with my iphone light seemed pretty stupid. I did find a vid of a guy changing his JK'S but it was totally different.
 
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