Do you HAVE to remove skid plate? And if so is it difficult?Very good write up, thank you.
I changed fluids in my transmission and t case today. I recommend just unbolting the skid plate before draining the t case, made things really simple.
FYI, anybody confused where the T case drain and fill plugs are, they are on the back face of the T case. If anybody needs help identifying any of the plugs, let me know and I can go take some photos of mine.
BTW, my T case fluids looked very fresh. If you rarely shift into 4wd, you can probably go a while between changing fluids there.
Next project is changing rear diff fluids, figure I don't need to do the front for a while, since like I said, I rarely am in 4wd.
It's pretty easy, just 4 bolts. I used an impact driver and got it off in less than 30 seconds and it went back on about that quick.Do you HAVE to remove skid plate? And if so is it difficult?
Sorry to be dragging this out....if I have sockets and a ratchet and girlie arms can I get it off without impact driver.It's pretty easy, just 4 bolts. I used an impact driver and got it off in less than 30 seconds and it went back on about that quick.
You don't have to remove it, but I think you'll find it's a lot easier to access everything if you just get it out of the way.
Yes!!! There is one video I've seen regarding JL diff fluid change....just one. Zero on transfer case of manual tranny change on JL. Very surprisingBtw, I did change the diff fluids since that original post, and it was incredibly easy. I was expecting to need to remove the covers and have a huge mess and have to replace a gasket... but it was as simple as unbolting a drain plug, wrapping the threads in thread sealing tape, putting the drain plug back in place, and then filling through the fill plug hole until it overflowed (and re-installing the fill plug).
I'm sure there are plenty of Youtube videos out there for all the maintenance work you can do without taking your JL to the shop, but if there's any interest in me recording each time I perform maintenance on my JL to share on here so that it's easy to ask questions and get quick answers, let me know.
Shouldn't be a problem, the torque wasn't that high on them and they aren't in an awkward location, so it's not like you're stuck making 1/4 turns while racking your knuckles against a cross member. A ratchet should be fine.Sorry to be dragging this out....if I have sockets and a ratchet and girlie arms can I get it off without impact driver.
Yep, manuals are MUCH easier on fluid than an auto because they don't even get close to generating as much heat. ATF+4 is made for high stress and high heat, so it will have an easy life in there. I won't be the one testing it, but as long as the level stayed topped off, the ATF+4 could probably last the life of the vehicle without changing it.ATF in manual transmissions is not unusual. My 98 F-150 with MT uses ATF. Pushing 250,000 miles with no problems. I've only changed it twice.
Are both bolts 24mm?I changed the manual transmission fluid today, at 20,148 miles. It was quick and easy and not too messy. Just make sure you don't lose the little metal washer/gasket on the drain plug. Mine fell off and I discovered it after I had filled it up with new fluid, so I had to fix that quickly while trying to lose as little of the new fluid as possible. I wound up losing 3/4 of a quart. Oh well, ATF+4 is cheap. I went with NAPA synthetic ATF+4, which is Valvoline. It is a fair deal at $7 a quart. It took very slightly over 2 quarts.
I then changed the T-case fluid. That is quite a bit messier because of the skid plate and because the fluid shoots waaay out from the drain hole. I used some Castrol left over from my JK T-case change last September and Valvoline ATF+4 for this.
Note: The Napa is Valvoline bottled for NAPA. It is maybe 70 or 80 cents cheaper per quart than the Valvoline branded bottles at Walmart. The T-case took very close to 2 quarts. All ATF+4 is essentially the same, anyway, so I'm not super picky. I've run Castrol and even Autozone brand before in other vehicles and the all are fine.
I typically change tranny, T-case, and diff fluids every 25-30k miles. I like doing the first one a little before that to get break in crap out of it.
Here is the transmission from the driver's side. The front of the Jeep is to the left. You'll need a bottle pump with a tube to reach the fill hole. The drain hole goes straight down and barely touches a brace nearly under it, so it is a much cleaner drain process than the JK's NSG370, which drains right on top of the exhaust pipe and requires an improvised tool to get it loose. The Aisin in the JL is a straight shot with a 24mm socket.
Here is the transmission drain plug. The magnet has trapped a fair amount of metal shavings. (Normal and about what I expected for the break-in period and 20k miles.) The pic after that is the plug all cleaned up.
Napa ATF+4. It says right on the back that it is made by Valvoline. No secret there. Valvoline makes most, if not all of Napa brand oil, gear lube, and transmission fluids. Good stuff.