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adamgrimm

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Another stupid question, how does power get supplied to the mini fuse box (10 fuse), is there 1 big power cable that is spliced off to all 10 fuses with different gauge wire?!! Also, with each fuse on there, I would assume one side of the fuse is to the accessory (OBA, light, etc) and the other side is connected to…. what exactly? Thanks again. Almost done with my on board air set up. What a project this has turned out to be, couldn’t have done it without you!! Thanks again
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MCJA

MCJA

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Not a stupid question at all!

Yes, I used a 6 gauge wire from the battery to the fuse box, then spliced 10 smaller gauge wires to it. The easiest way I've found to do that is to take the 10 wires you want to splice, strip off about 2" of insulation, then twist them together. The bundle turns out to be about the same size as the 6 gauge wire. Then use a crimp butt connector to splice the twisted bundle and the 6 gauge wire together, then sweat some solder down into the butt crimp. Then seal the whole splice with some heat shrink tube and/or electrical tape. You can probably buy a single butt crimp connector at a local automotive audio shop. You could probably even have them do the crimp and solder if you want. 6 gauge wire is a beast. Might be hard to crimp if you don't have the right electrical pliers for it. Use a ring-style terminal on the other end of the 6 gauge wire to connect it to the battery. (Be sure to use the right size ring to fit both the wire and an accessory post on the positive battery cable.)

And that leads to your second question... Once the 10 wires are spliced to the single feed wire, you'll connect those wires to one side of each fuse. The other side of each fuse then feeds the accessory you're using it for.

Before connecting the main feed wire (6 gauge) to the battery, remove all of your fuses from the fuse box. Once the feed wire is connected, then add your fuses to the box. That's not completely necessary, but I do it just as a precaution to keep from damaging anything as I make that connection.

Some general rules for DC electrical wiring:
  • The FIRST component in any electrical circuit should always be a fuse. After that you can add your switches, relays, diodes, loads, etc. Fuse first. Always.
  • The fuse should be located as close to the power source as possible. That way if something shorts on the circuit and overloads it, the fuse will fail (melt) before the wire.
  • If the load (accessory) draws anything more than about 5 amps, you should consider using a relay instead of an in-line switch. (It depends on the constant power rating of the switch.) If that sounds like gibberish, just let me know and I'll explain.
  • With DC wiring, the gauge of the wire must increase as the load gets farther away from the power source. Be sure to use the appropriate gauge wire for what you're installing. Remember that a car usually runs at about 13.5 to 14 volts, not 12.

Don't hesitate to ask questions. I don't mind answering one bit.
 

Halxen

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Dash Cam Installation

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Dash Cam Bracket.jpg


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:)Shapeways.com - for 3D printing
Awesome job on this. I just ordered a 2024 Wrangler rubicon and I'm planning on getting the DR970X Box Plus along with the B-130X battery module. As the mounting is slightly different from the DR900X I'm wondering if you happen to have uploaded the model files to somewhere like thingiverse since the mounting bracket portion should be the same position for the screws and I'd just need to redo the barrel part of the mount for the DR970X Plus front camera.

I see that it looks like you've already done similar mounts for the B-130X as to what you've done for your B-124X battery and I'll happily just get those off Shapeways. Alternatively if you'd rather mod your front camera mount for the DR970X Plus front camera I'd certainly just buy that from your Shapeways as well.

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TEEJ2

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Just chiming in to say I have one of the camera mounts you designed and have used it in two Wranglers now. Love it, thanks for making it!
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