louder sound in my jl but minimalist

[KCGreenMachine]

I really do like the look of the stock interior of the jl I’m looking to get louder sound. Without sacrificing the stock look any ideas ? I’ve got the 7 inch uconnect system so no alpine subwoofer for me And whenever the top and doors are off I would like it to be a little louder. Nothing outrageous

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[ForeOSU]

Following. I have the same thoughts. Not looking to add a sub or anything. Just curious what options are out there for plug and play upgraded speakers.

 

[dajaga]

I really do like the look of the stock interior of the jl I’m looking to get louder sound. Without sacrificing the stock look any ideas ? I’ve got the 7 inch uconnect system so no alpine subwoofer for me And whenever the top and doors are off I would like it to be a little louder. Nothing outrageous

Well how much are you willing to spend? Are you looking to do a complete overhall on all your sound? or try to spend as little as possible? there are some great ways to get 6.5 inch speakers in the pillar and the footwell area with twetters. there are some great looking 10inch sub enclosures that look stock and save space in your tailgate area.

I'd say if you got 1500 to 2k you can get everything you need to make things look stock while gaining audio quality

 

[KCGreenMachine]

Well how much are you willing to spend? Are you looking to do a complete overhall on all your sound? or try to spend as little as possible? there are some great ways to get 6.5 inch speakers in the pillar and the footwell area with twetters. there are some great looking 10inch sub enclosures that look stock and save space in your tailgate area.

I'd say if you got 1500 to 2k you can get everything you need to make things look stock while gaining audio quality

I was trying to spend as little as possible Really didn’t want to spend over 1200 maybe

 

[dajaga]

I was trying to spend as little as possible Really didn’t want to spend over 1200 maybe

here is what I recommend, there are a couple different ways of doing this. I found this worked pretty well
jvc-kw-m750bt
Idatalink RR module
metra 107-ch3b dash kit
idatalink hrn-rr-ch3 harness
metra 40-eu10
a mono amp of your choice or a 5 channel amp for future use
a sub of your choice.
Amp install kit

depending on your sub and amp you can get all that for under 1200 usd,

I found when I installed the jvc kw-m650bt head unit, the sound from the speakers were a lot better and could go louder. the head unit is adding about 2/3 more watts to the speakers and the stock non alpine speakers sound not too bad, still could use upgrading.

The new headunit will allow you to run rca jacks and able to run new speaker wire to new after market speakers easily instead of trying to retro fit the speakers and using line out converters ect.

 

[Liberty0rDeath]

Following. I have the dreaded 5” stock “unconnect me please radio”. It’s not cutting it. I’ve read about the kicker replacements from bam. Ready to pull the trigger on those for the dash and sound bar, but honestly I’d like a clean head unit (mostly for apple play) and a stock sub out of the way in the cargo area (I’m reading under the seat is a no go?)

 

[Liberty0rDeath]

here is what I recommend, there are a couple different ways of doing this. I found this worked pretty well
jvc-kw-m750bt
Idatalink RR module
metra 107-ch3b dash kit
idatalink hrn-rr-ch3 harness
metra 40-eu10
a mono amp of your choice or a 5 channel amp for future use
a sub of your choice.
Amp install kit

depending on your sub and amp you can get all that for under 1200 usd,

I found when I installed the jvc kw-m650bt head unit, the sound from the speakers were a lot better and could go louder. the head unit is adding about 2/3 more watts to the speakers and the stock non alpine speakers sound not too bad, still could use upgrading.

The new headunit will allow you to run rca jacks and able to run new speaker wire to new after market speakers easily instead of trying to retro fit the speakers and using line out converters ect.

Does this setup allow the use of the stock backup cam and steering wheel controls?

 

[dajaga]

Following. I have the dreaded 5” stock “unconnect me please radio”. It’s not cutting it. I’ve read about the kicker replacements from bam. Ready to pull the trigger on those for the dash and sound bar, but honestly I’d like a clean head unit (mostly for apple play) and a stock sub out of the way in the cargo area (I’m reading under the seat is a no go?)

Does this setup allow the use of the stock backup cam and steering wheel controls?

Apparently there is a fix for the back up camera, the module is about 80$, from what I know it is unknown if the fix works or not, as for the steering wheel controls they work, and they are customizeable to through the idatalink rr module app. Or you can install an aftermarket backup cam.

 

[scott96fs]

I was in the same boat as you, I didnt want to spend tons of money so ended up doing the following:

Mopar kicker 77KICK25AB upgrade speakers in the dash.
Metra jp-1014 pods in the kick panels with 6.5 " kickers
SSV Works JJT-SA065 sound bar adapters with 6.5" kickers
KICKER 11HS8 powered sub under the rear seat

All in Im probably right around 600-700 dollars, is it going to wake up the entire neighborhood with bass? No, but it sounds great and is night and day difference over the stock setup.

 

[Chris2183]

Get Metra 6.5" speaker pods and a set of 6.5" components This will make an immediate improvement without breaking the bank.

Next up is a couple of options to add a little power to the speakers .

1. PAC AmpPro AP-CH41 R2 or similar converter and an amp
2. Get the components here that make up the Apline Upgrade system and an Alpine KTP-445U power pack You can add a sub later if you wish
https://www.pacparts.com/model.cfm?model_id=PSS23WRA&mfg=Alpine&back=0&action=list_part

Dont worry about the sound bar until after you get the front sounding how you want. The soundbar is mostly for fill and will be less noticeable than the front.

 

[Liberty0rDeath]

How about the USB ports? I’m seeing power yes b

I was in the same boat as you, I didnt want to spend tons of money so ended up doing the following:

Mopar kicker 77KICK25AB upgrade speakers in the dash.
Metra jp-1014 pods in the kick panels with 6.5 " kickers
SSV Works JJT-SA065 sound bar adapters with 6.5" kickers
KICKER 11HS8 powered sub under the rear seat

All in Im probably right around 600-700 dollars, is it going to wake up the entire neighborhood with bass? No, but it sounds great and is night and day difference over the stock setup.

With that subwoofer are you still able to lower your rear seat flat?

 

[Liberty0rDeath]

Get Metra 6.5" speaker pods and a set of 6.5" components This will make an immediate improvement without breaking the bank.

Next up is a couple of options to add a little power to the speakers .

1. PAC AmpPro AP-CH41 R2 or similar converter and an amp
2. Get the components here that make up the Apline Upgrade system and an Alpine KTP-445U power pack You can add a sub later if you wish
https://www.pacparts.com/model.cfm?model_id=PSS23WRA&mfg=Alpine&back=0&action=list_part

Dont worry about the sound bar until after you get the front sounding how you want. The soundbar is mostly for fill and will be less noticeable than the front.

I just purchased the pods and some 6.5 speakers. I’m reading that resistors maybe necessary to “trick” the stock radio

Get Metra 6.5" speaker pods and a set of 6.5" components This will make an immediate improvement without breaking the bank.

Next up is a couple of options to add a little power to the speakers .

1. PAC AmpPro AP-CH41 R2 or similar converter and an amp
2. Get the components here that make up the Apline Upgrade system and an Alpine KTP-445U power pack You can add a sub later if you wish
https://www.pacparts.com/model.cfm?model_id=PSS23WRA&mfg=Alpine&back=0&action=list_part

Dont worry about the sound bar until after you get the front sounding how you want. The soundbar is mostly for fill and will be less noticeable than the front.

Are the speakers just an “easy” ( I realize this is relative) swap. I’m reading elsewhere that resistors maybe required for the head unit to keep a signal to the speakers? I ordered the pods and speakers and just want to ensure that nothing else is needed.

 

[Chris2183]

I just purchased the pods and some 6.5 speakers. I’m reading that resistors maybe necessary to “trick” the stock radio


Are the speakers just an “easy” ( I realize this is relative) swap. I’m reading elsewhere that resistors maybe required for the head unit to keep a signal to the speakers? I ordered the pods and speakers and just want to ensure that nothing else is needed.

The radio is supposed to see a load from the speaker. Some speakers plug and play just fine and some require a resistor to be soldered in line.

If you hop on down to our Electrical section there is a wealth of information and @Sting_NC_USA has an excellent sticky on upgrading your speakers and adding an amplifier. He also chimes in quite a bit answering questions.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...l-uconnect-navigation-a-v-cb-wiring-camera.9/

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Thanks @Chris2183! That post can sometimes feel like a part-time (non-paying!) job, but it's been great to maintain, and I've met a ton of great people because of it. Every now and then I escape, reading other stuff, too!

@KCGreenMachine the group here is giving some great advice, and from what I'm seeing with your purchases, there may be a few things you want to pay particular attention to as you go down this path. Two assumptions are offered. One will likely fit your situation, and the other may help others if they're in a similar position.

Assumption 1: You're adding 6.5-inch speakers and no amp...

If this describes your intent, you'll likely need resistors. Buy one for each channel (left and right speaker wire pair). You'll need two if your only changing the front two speakers. Check page one of the post Chris referenced, and you'll see the specs of the resistors needed. The resistors are so inexpensive, you would benefit from buying them ahead of time, just in case.

A few concerns with adding 6.5's to a non-amplified system (skip to Assumption 2 if you're adding an aftermarket amp!)

• If you're not amplifying your new speakers, there's a concern there may not be enough power available from the stock head unit to support their power needs.
  • Why? There's a concept called "efficiency." Simply put, it's a sweet-spot, if you will, where the speaker performs and projects sound at it's best. This typically occurs when speakers are properly matched with an amp capable of supplying the right amount of power (roughly 75-120% of the speaker's posted RMS value).
  • The uConnect system, especially the 7-inch standard system (which is what I have, BTW) won't handle the power needs of 6.5's very well. As a point of reference, the stock system already has a hard time powering the puny 4-inch speakers it came with.
  • Further, significantly under-powering speakers can make them sound worse than the stock ones. Using the above "efficiency" term, the stock speaker's power needs are matched closely to the minimal power output the stock radio is capable of providing. Upgraded speakers would sound OK (at best) at low volumes, but since you'd mentioned you want a louder, more powerful setup, an amp is a must with 6.5's.

Assumption 2: You're adding 6.5-inch speakers and an amp.

If this describes your intent, congratulations, it's the right move! You don't need to go crazy, but there are a few "must-haves" to consider.

• As mentioned above, you'll need a line output converter (LOC), preferably with the ability to flatten the stock uConnect system's pre-equalized signal. Chris recommended the PAC, and I agree, just ensure you're getting the revision 2 (R2) version. No resistors needed when using the PAC.
• If I'm reading your intent correctly, you'll want either:
  • A basic, 4-channel amp, and possibly a powered sub mounted under your seat. Or, you could run your front two 6.5's off of the front two channels, and a subwoofer in an enclosure (placed in your cargo area) powered by the rear two channels.
  • Preferred recommendation: A basic 5-channel amp, with a subwoofer in an enclosure (placed in your cargo area) which would leave two channels free for when you're ready to upgrade your soundbar speakers in the future.

IMPORTANT: You definitely want to ensure you bought 6.5-inch separates/components (separate woofer and tweeter with a cross-over module). Because the kick panels point down, you really can't buy coaxials and actually benefit from their tweeters since they're pointing down.

Being candid, I've rarely talked anyone who says they want just a "little" more and then stop there. The primary advice I offer friends and family (who ask) is buy once, cry once. Many folks I've dealt with over the years (me included) initially bought something "cheap," only to re-purchase upgrades again, and again, which results in paying a higher price than if they would have purchased what they wanted in the first place. So, think it through and get what you feel is right for your current and anticipated goals.

This is likely more information than you wanted. I know it's more than I'd planned to share, though feel free to ask any clarifying questions and count on this group for some great advice.

Cheers!

 

[emgeesea]

I really do like the look of the stock interior of the jl I’m looking to get louder sound. Without sacrificing the stock look any ideas ? I’ve got the 7 inch uconnect system so no alpine subwoofer for me And whenever the top and doors are off I would like it to be a little louder. Nothing outrageous

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-system-upgrade-review-and-suggestions.51148/

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