Aceman
Well-Known Member
Nope, that's definitely not the steering box. That's the differential case.I don't think that's the steering box.
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Nope, that's definitely not the steering box. That's the differential case.I don't think that's the steering box.
That's the blinker fluid reservoir.So got my 2018 JLUR back today after 08-074-20 and I'm underwhelmed. To those that know more than me...does it pass the smell test?
Edit: Apparently I don't know what a steering box looks like! Updated.
Good advice here. You can buy the mopar extended lower control arms for like $40 each (look around the forum for a link)and toss them on, made a noticeable tracking difference on our JLUR. It will not fix a dead spot though.CHECK CASTER which can (did for me)improve the handling dramatically. I have an early build 2018JLU Rubicon. The caster was at 4.2. and wandered all over the Freeway. I purchased some adjustable front lower control arms took the Jeep to a highly respected/quality alignment shop and and adjusted caster to between 6-7 degrees .....
Now drives straight as an arrow down the freeway. I did this after I went to two different dealerships to resolve without any assistance ... they used the “drive like a Jeep.” ..I knew they were full of it.
@TheEddie...good advice. I just ordered the Mopar Lift LCAs 2 days ago and already shipped. Can't wait to install and see the difference with more caster paired with the new steel steering box. Total $62 and free shipping using the code and vendor mentioned in this thread. Cheap and relatively easy mod. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/mopar-lca-swap.22474/Good advice here. You can buy the mopar extended lower control arms for like $40 each (look around the forum for a link)and toss them on, made a noticeable tracking difference on our JLUR. It will not fix a dead spot though.
You heated it? It can be a real bugger to loosen bolts that have been locktited with red (permanent) Loctite.So i attempted to adjust my steering gear lash but the adjuster will not move in either direction. all the factory paint lines match up, so i don't thing its been previously tampered with. has anyone tried to adjust the lash?
So it has a lock nut, then the adjuster. I cannot imagine it is internally sealed with lock tite. At any rate, I cranked on it with at least 70-90 ft lbs torque (guessing)You heated it? It can be a real bugger to loosen bolts that have been locktited with red (permanent) Loctite.
Just an FYI, but every description I've read of the process to adjust that thing says to heat it due to loctite.So it has a lock nut, then the adjuster. I cannot imagine it is internally sealed with lock tite. At any rate, I cranked on it with at least 70-90 ft lbs torque (guessing)
you need to apply heat because there is red loctite on the locknut threads. 60 seconds with a micro butane torch will work. don't force it or you will strip the head of the adjuster screw.So i attempted to adjust my steering gear lash but the adjuster will not move in either direction. all the factory paint lines match up, so i don't thing its been previously tampered with. has anyone tried to adjust the lash?
That IS the steering box (or sometimes referred to as the steering gear).Edit: Apparently I don't know what a steering box looks like! Updated
This is normal for the factory track bar. Get a heavy duty aftermarket one and enjoy.I know this is an older thread but I was wondering if I could get an opinion on my track bar. Intercept installed a synergy sector shaft brace and track bar brace but I have noticed my drag link is loose so I’m probably going to replace it with a synergy drag link but I came across my track bar and I see movement in it. I’m not sure what is normal and what is not so I’m attaching a video I took today on a blacktop driveway. If your curious what I’m running it’s rc 2.5 inch lift with BFF k02 35’s.
Ok, perhaps we are missing each other on this. I can break the lock nut loose (even remove it off the adjuster screw but the actual adjuster (that has a hex head) will not move. I cannot see any loctite on it and cannot believe it is internally sealed with loctite.you need to apply heat because there is red loctite on the locknut threads. 60 seconds with a micro butane torch will work. don't force it or you will strip the head of the adjuster screw.
yup, you are correct, I misunderstood what you stated... the loctite is usually (but not always) applied to the threads of the locknut, but since you can remove the locknut, this is not your issue. I have no idea why you cannot turn the adjuster screw. there was one report in this thread (about a year ago) by someone claiming the adjuster screw broke (sheared off) while attempting to turn it. I feel like the hex head would round out first, but do be careful with yours - perhaps loctite was incorrectly applied to the adjuster threads instead of the locknut, or there is some other mechanical issue...Ok, perhaps we are missing each other on this. I can break the lock nut loose (even remove it off the adjuster screw but the actual adjuster (that has a hex head) will not move. I cannot see any loctite on it and cannot believe it is internally sealed with loctite.