Loose steering feels like it has play and drifts

[Jimac]

I took my 18’ JLUR w/ 650 miles on it to the dealer today for wandering and loose steering. Also have started developing a wobble /shimmy over bumps.

Was told 2 things by the tech who went with me on a test drive.

1. Rubicons are not intended to drive over 70MPH so anything at that speed or above is not really a problem with the car.

2. The 2” of play before steering engages on my Jeep is completely normal. So are the consistent corrections I need to make to keep the vehicle in the lane while driving it at 65 on the highway.

What do I do now? They offer to go over the suspension and check torques to put me at ease.

Am I really expected to believe I can’t drive my $54k car over 70MPH safely?

@JeepCares wtf is this shit?

Just another FCA Stealership lie. Name this Dealer!

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[californiajeeping]

I took my 18’ JLUR w/ 650 miles on it to the dealer today for wandering and loose steering. Also have started developing a wobble /shimmy over bumps.

Was told 2 things by the tech who went with me on a test drive.

1. Rubicons are not intended to drive over 70MPH so anything at that speed or above is not really a problem with the car.

2. The 2” of play before steering engages on my Jeep is completely normal. So are the consistent corrections I need to make to keep the vehicle in the lane while driving it at 65 on the highway.

What do I do now? They offer to go over the suspension and check torques to put me at ease.

Am I really expected to believe I can’t drive my $54k car over 70MPH safely?

@JeepCares wtf is this shit?

A. There is a rumor that there will be a future TSB with a flash that will change the software to alter how the steering pump works at higher speeds, making the need for constant steering corrections to go away. However, even with such an update, there could be other steering related problems that this software update would not fix. See video below. This type of delay between the steering shaft and pitman arm nut is NOT normal - aka dead spot. There should be very little to no dead space.

B. Test drive another Rubicon from the dealer lot until you find one that doesn't need constant corrections. Then use it as a comparison and show it to the service dept.

C. Definitely have them check torque on everything. My JLUR was all all over the road and they found super loose ball joint nuts, loose track bar and drag link bolts and more. Tightening it up and changing the toe to the extreme end of the spec fixed it. Show them this Star case and to check your steering box using the document below as well. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...o-help-cure-steering-issues-68394087aa.25299/

 

[HiJinx69]

Just in case people are interested, I reshot the track bar movement. The previous video was done on a gravel driveway, this was done on a hard surface. The movement is more pronounced.

 

[californiajeeping]

Just in case people are interested, I reshot the track bar movement. The previous video was done on a gravel driveway, this was done on a hard surface. The movement is more pronounced.

How much steering wheel movement were you doing in the video? Also, just imagine how much additional movement would be seen if you were to mount a camera so you could video it while driving.

 

[HiJinx69]

How much steering wheel movement were you doing in the video? Also, just imagine how much additional movement would be seen if you were to mount a camera so you could video it while driving.

Anywhere between 9 and 3 o'clock on the steering wheel.

 

[eightamrock]

Dropped off today with this note. I’m not trying to be a jerk to these people, but the “it’s not supposed to drive at 70mph” answer they gave really didn’t sit well with me.

Attn <redacted>,

Although the tech that drove with me seemed to believe that the looseness and shimmy I was feeling in the steering was normal, I’ve found countless examples online that show it is not. I’m not satisfied with the answer that “Rubicons are not intended to drive over 70mph” as the answer to why it wanders, needs constant correction, and requires excessive input before engaging the steering.

The shimmy that I am feeling over bumps is also getting worse and I am concerned that the problems with the steering are causing the dampener to prematurely fail.

I do not feel this vehicle is safe to drive.

I found the attached TSBs that I would like you to perform before I pick the vehicle back up.

1. Replace the track bar with the newest track bar model in accordance with the Star report
2. Inspect and replace dampener in accordance with the Star report
3. Fully inspect and re-torque all steering components
4. Perform the “over center rotating torque” test on the steering gear box and replace if appropriate in accordance with the star report
5. Perform a complete alignment in accordance to the Star report, optimizing toe for the positive end of the specification.

I appreciate your help.

Thanks,

——

Will see how this plays out. I’m expecting sugar in the gas tank.

 

[chadc880]

This gets more weird by the moment. So I too wanted to see how much movement my trackball has.

Pretty sure this isn't "normal"

 

[californiajeeping]

This gets more weird by the moment. So I too wanted to see how much movement my trackball has.

Pretty sure this isn't "normal"

Does your steering shaft and pitman arm act the same way as this video? It could explain the dead spot in your steering wheel if it does.

 

[californiajeeping]

Dropped off today with this note. I’m not trying to be a jerk to these people, but the “it’s not supposed to drive at 70mph” answer they gave really didn’t sit well with me.

Attn <redacted>,

Although the tech that drove with me seemed to believe that the looseness and shimmy I was feeling in the steering was normal, I’ve found countless examples online that show it is not. I’m not satisfied with the answer that “Rubicons are not intended to drive over 70mph” as the answer to why it wanders, needs constant correction, and requires excessive input before engaging the steering.

The shimmy that I am feeling over bumps is also getting worse and I am concerned that the problems with the steering are causing the dampener to prematurely fail.

I do not feel this vehicle is safe to drive.

I found the attached TSBs that I would like you to perform before I pick the vehicle back up.

1. Replace the track bar with the newest track bar model in accordance with the Star report
2. Inspect and replace dampener in accordance with the Star report
3. Fully inspect and re-torque all steering components
4. Perform the “over center rotating torque” test on the steering gear box and replace if appropriate in accordance with the star report
5. Perform a complete alignment in accordance to the Star report, optimizing toe for the positive end of the specification.

I appreciate your help.

Thanks,

——

Will see how this plays out. I’m expecting sugar in the gas tank.

Looks good. Suggested edits:

A. #3 Add "in accordance with the Star document S1819000003" so it reads Fully inspect and re-torque all steering components in accordance with Star doc #S1819000003.

B. Add the JL track bar part number so they get the new and improved version and don't put in the older design- 68394087AA

C. Add Star doc #S1819000003 to each line so they don't say "what Star document?"

D. Add #6 - Apply the flash per TSB 08-092-18 - Low Steering Assist at Highway Speeds. Many have reported this gives some improvement to steering, some say it fixes it completely. It depends on how many problems there are with steering though.

E. Add #7 - Test the drag link and pitman arm connection for excess play, like in this video. If exists, replace with the new and improved inner drag link part #68258760AD.

F. Get the date code from your steering stabilizer and add it to #2 if your date code is in range.

 

[chadc880]

Now here is video 2 for tonight. Here is where things get really weird. Number 1 and most important, I am for sure I have a "looser" steering box than others. But I am waiting for a AE before I have my service manager change the steering box.

Back going back to day 1 with all of my issues, I thought everything was to blame on a loose steering box. Then we found from other members the loose ball joints and then the faulty steering stabilizer.

When I had the dealer tighten all ball joint nuts we then proceeded with him giving me the green light to experiment with the steering box adjuster. I didn't know at that time the young tech he had do this, never torqued the loose upper joint nuts. This was later found months later after checking the cotter pins. At this time FCA hadn't released any steering related information. We could only go by information from other members and then by Brandon at Jeep Informant. 1/8 was nice and then 1/4 felt great. But anything over 1/4 the steering got tight in the mornings so 1/4 it was. No one ever imagined the steering stabilizers were junk from the get go and after having mine replaced my steering got tighter. It was more noticeable at highway speeds over 70ish. And it wasn't a good feeling. Almost like seized up king pins on a big truck.

And for several months and thousands of miles I have been playing through my head all of the steering components we had issues with. Could the steering stabilizer, ball joints, loose tie rod ends, could all of this been the main cause of my white knuckle steering when I first got my JL.

So today I went and adjusted my steering box back to the factory setting. And I was quite surprised how it drove.

Here is a video. Of course you feel some looseness in the box, but man I wish it drove like this day 1 when I got it off the truck.

 

[Rdmitch]

Eightamrock

Your dealer is full of crap.
Start a case with FCA have them call you dealer and make things happen.
Everything you told them, are good corrective measures, and I had them all done but the only thing that even helped a bit was replacing the steering box.

My understanding is these are NOT adjustable and trying to adjust it yourself will open up a can of worms and give them a reason to blow you off further. I thought there was a sealer on the housing that didn’t even come off to allow you to mess with the adjustment screw.

Do not accept a inferior, unsafe $50k garage decoration.

 

[HoundDude]

hey @chadc880, any chance you could elaborate on two points please?

what does "Of course you feel some looseness in the box" now mean, could you be a little more descriptive?

before you did anything (including the steering gear adjustment), did you have excessive play/dead spot in your steering? about how much side-to-side steering wheel movement before the wheels responded?

thanks

 

[chadc880]

I tried to get a video of the steering box and what I believe is the play or looseness

 

[californiajeeping]

I tried to get a video of the steering box and what I believe is the play or looseness

I didn't see the pitman arm nut move at all. How many inches of steering wheel dead zone do you have? It would be interesting to see the same video, but part A shows the same non-movement, then part B shows how far you have to move it before the pitman arm nut moves. And do a picture in picture showing the steering wheel movement and steering box at the same time. That would be a powerful video. Then do the same video on a JL that doesn't have steering wheel dead zone, or very minimal.

 

[PavementWarrior]

I didn't see the pitman arm nut move at all. How many inches of steering wheel dead zone do you have? It would be interesting to see the same video, but part A shows the same non-movement, then part B shows how far you have to move it before the pitman arm nut moves. And do a picture in picture showing the steering wheel movement and steering box at the same time. That would be a powerful video. Then do the same video on a JL that doesn't have steering wheel dead zone, or very minimal.

You may not see it move, thats why you put your finger on it when the steering wheel is moved

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