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Loose steering feels like it has play and drifts

californiajeeping

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I actually have something good to post about the wandering and loose steering. I'm just posting my experience with this issue and what I did. I'm not saying this will be the same for others, but it is something to consider.

I adjusted the toe-in yesterday and put 60 miles on it since and I can tell you that I'm very happy with the results, compared to how it drove before. Having increased the toe-in, it now tracks straight, therefore the seesawing action is diminished greatly! I took it on the Interstate for a quick test ride, but it drove so good that I did a complete loop around the city. Then this morning, I thought I would adjust it slightly more to feel the difference. I then drove through two lane back roads where I would normally have to be very cautious. It felt great!

On my Jeep, there was this phenomenon where it was tracking slightly left or to the right. That's where the seesawing came into play. This is now gone.

Here's what I did.
Jack up the front, under the pumpkin, just enough where the left front wheel is off the ground. The pumpkin is off center, therefore this side will come off the ground first.
IMG_0012.jpeg

Then, I took a marker and marked the position of the locking nut on the bracket. This will allow you to lock it back in place at the same spot.

IMG_0013.jpeg

Then, I marked the original toe-in position. Make sure you mark the tube and thread. The bracket moves freely once loose. Here, I already moved it slightly inward. This was yesterday.

IMG_0018.jpeg

This is the current position. I don't know if this is too much, but it's something I'll have to keep in eye on as far as the tire wear.

So, this is where I'm at with the loose/wandering steering. Dealer would not apply TSB/even though mine fell within build date, said it was normal for the JL. Have been waiting for a fix as many of us have and pretty much gave up. Thought I'd share my experience with others who might want to try this. The key take away here for me, is that I feel I have control.
This post supports your findings as well - https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/how-to-dial-in-your-steering.22188/
 

Jeepo

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After few months of trying to figure out what the fix is for the JL, I finally gave up and traded the Jeep. Adjusting the steering box and changing the steering stabilizer did not solve the issue for me. Dealer said, it's how jeep drives, sooooo instead of loosing my life driving a jeep with a loose steering during winter here in AK, I let it go. I figured that it's not worth my life. Good luck to those who are still looking for an answer, great job to those who found a solution and congratulations to the ones who never had a problem.

This is a great forum and I certainly learned a lot, just from reading in here. I will stick around and hoping that Jeep will sort it out and I get to buy another in the future.
 

RandyB-JL19

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I believe a front-end alignment with a slightly greater toe-in (than spec) will solve most "wandering" issues.
 

Uhdinator

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Agree the slight toe in will probably fix the wandering. Then the only other issue is the steering wheel play which will be less of an issue with the wandering eliminated. When it gets warmer I'll check/adjust the toe.
 

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HoundDude

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I made an attempt at adding a little toe-in today to reduce the wandering at highway speeds, haven't been able to test drive yet because life, but i will ASAP.

for those of you who actually know what you're doing (unlike me), is this much adjustment considered to be a "hair" (as recommended in this forum) or a huge amount that will adversely impact handling / tire life? the white paint marks were aligned before i made the adjustment. thanks!
JLToeAdjustment.jpg
 

RubiRob

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I made an attempt at adding a little toe-in today to reduce the wandering at highway speeds, haven't been able to test drive yet because life, but i will ASAP.

for those of you who actually know what you're doing (unlike me), is this much adjustment considered to be a "hair" (as recommended in this forum) or a huge amount that will adversely impact handling / tire life? the white paint marks were aligned before i made the adjustment. thanks!
JLToeAdjustment.jpg
Did you measure at all?
 

47Jeepster

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One could ask their local alignment guy for the answer, but no one's working on a Saturday evening. So, let me try a back of the envelope approach to determine how much to turn the tie rod adjustment nut.

1) FCA total toe-in specs are 0.20° +/- 0.20° ... for a K02 tire with a 32.8" diameter that equates to a measured difference between the front and the rear of the tires of 0.114" +/- 0.114".

2) The tie rod ball joint looks to be about 6.25" out from an imaginary king pin. That dimension is hard to measure accurately, thus this is a back of the envelope calculation. A 6.25" moment arm yields a ratio of about 1:2.6 ... ie if the tie rod moves one inch the outer diameter of the tire will move 2.6 inches.

3) If we assume our toe-in is nominal (0.20°) and we want to increase it to the max spec value (0.40°) we would have to increase the difference between the front and rear of the tires an additional 0.114" ... or the front of the tires 0.057". With a 2.6 ratio we would have to shorten the tie rod 0.057" / 2.6 = 0.0219" to achieve that much tire movement.

4) It looks like the adjustment nut has 16 threads per inch, so it has to be turned about 126° to yield a 0.0219" linear movement. (360°/0.0625") * 0.0219 = 126°.

5) Based on the above we can calculate a "rule-of-thumb" for adjustment nut angular change to toe in angular change. A 126° rotation of the adjustment nut yields a toe-in change of 0.20°.

6) It looks like there are ~100 ridges on the adjustment nut ... if so, then give a tip of the hat to the engineer who designed it that way. Thus, each ridge accounts for 3.6° of rotation. If you're a shade tree mechanic, now you can move the adjustment nut 1.75 ridges for 0.01° of total toe-in change.

7) It's hard to count the number of ridges between the original setting and the new setting in the above photos, but a reasonable guess is about five ... 5.25 ridges equates to a toe-in increase of 0.03°.

Until we can get someone to verify the above, you're on your own ... all the fine print applies. I was bored this evening and needed something to keep me out of trouble.
 
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HoundDude

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One could ask their local alignment guy for the answer, but no one's working on a Saturday evening. So, let me try a back of the envelope approach to determine how much to turn the tie rod adjustment nut.

1) FCA total tow-in specs are 0.20° =/- 0.20° ... for a K02 tire with a 32.8" diameter that equates to a measured difference between the front and the rear of the tire of 0.114" =/- 0.114".

2) The tie rod ball joint looks to be about 6.25" out from an imaginary king pin. That dimension is hard to measure accurately, thus this is a back of the envelope calculation. A 6.25" moment arm yields a ratio of about 1:2.6 ... ie if the tie rod moves one inch the outer diameter of the tire will move 2.6 inches.

3) If we assume our toe-in is nominal (0.20°) and we want to increase it to the max spec value (0.40°) we would have to increase the difference between the front and rear of the tires an additional 0.114" ... or the front of the tires 0.057". With a 2.6 ratio we would have to shorten the tie rod 0.057" / 2.6 = 0.0219" to achieve that much tire movement.

4) It looks like the adjustment nut has 16 threads per inch, so it has to be turned about 126° to yield a 0.0219" linear movement. (360°/0.0625") * 0.0219 = 126°.

5) Based on the above we can calculate a "rule-of-thumb" for adjustment nut angular change to toe in angular change. A 126° rotation of the adjustment nut yields a toe-in change of 0.20°.

6) It looks like there are ~100 ridges on the adjustment nut ... if so, then give a tip of the hat to the engineer who designed it that way. Thus, each ridge accounts for 3.6° of rotation. If you're a shade tree mechanic, now you can move the adjustment nut 1.75 ridges for 0.01° of total toe in change.

7) It's hard to count the number of ridges between the original setting and the new setting in the above photos, but a reasonable guess is about five ... 5.25 ridges equates to a toe-in increase of 0.03°.

Until we can get someone to verify the above, you're on your own ... all the fine print applies. I was bored this evening and needed something to keep me out of trouble.
you are a machine! i understand it's just a rough estimate but thank you for taking time to think through the math.

I'm going to do a test run tomorrow and see if there is any improvement. based on you estimates, i may iterate a few more times just to see if/how much the handling improves so I get a feel for it. if it improves, I'll either measure it or try to find a shop i trust to check it. if no improvement I'll probably just return it to where I started.

thanks again, appreciate the effort!
 

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Paul Hess

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you are a machine! i understand it's just a rough estimate but thank you for taking time to think through the math.

I'm going to do a test run tomorrow and see if there is any improvement. based on you estimates, i may iterate a few more times just to see if/how much the handling improves so I get a feel for it. if it improves, I'll either measure it or try to find a shop i trust to check it. if no improvement I'll probably just return it to where I started.

thanks again, appreciate the effort!
Hey all. I keep seeing post for finding a way to fix the tracking and loose steering. I tried everything and ended up with all items back to stock and getting the steering box replaced. Amazing result from new steering box and reflash. It's a totally different ride. Jeep knows there is an issue and all you have to do is have your service tech send jeep a case study and they will comply. Many JL owners are following this fix and loving there jeep. I was the first at our dealership last month and many have been fixed since then. Once your dealer has a fix they can push everyone through.
 

Paul Hess

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do you know what version of the steering box you had in your Jeep before they replaced it? i.e., AD or earlier? if not, what was your build date? thanks
I'm not sure what the version was but my build date was 4/18. I'm being told that it doesn't matter the build date because the band new parts and jeeps are bad have to be tested and sent back if they don't meet the test. There is a torque rotation test that the dealer performs on the installed box and all new sent parts.
 

HoundDude

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I'm not sure what the version was but my build date was 4/18. I'm being told that it doesn't matter the build date because the band new parts and jeeps are bad have to be tested and sent back if they don't meet the test. There is a torque rotation test that the dealer performs on the installed box and all new sent parts.
yes, there is a Star case # for that but doesn't apply to my VIN, I think it was for vehicles produced before june-ish.
 

Paul Hess

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yes, there is a Star case # for that but doesn't apply to my VIN, I think it was for vehicles produced before june-ish.
Yes there is a Star case for prior 5/18 build but others are using that case to get 2019 issues fixed as well. Jeep knows there is a problem, they just need pushed. I will check with my dealer tomorrow for any newer cases as I know they had several late models looked at.
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