Looking for a good wax for a JL

[roaniecowpony]

I'm wary of the ones with claims of 2-5 years protection. Not that I don't believe they'll last that long, I'm afraid they will. What happens between 2 and 5 years when some of it is shot and some isn't? Can it be removed so a fresh coating can be put on or will old coats rear its ugly head?

All of the ceramic makers say it can be buffed off using a cutting pad and compound. I haven't personally tried that. But the protection would seem to be worth that issue.

I don't know if you can simply overcoat. From what I have read in the Avalon King literature, you can.

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[Strommen95]

I have been on the Wolfgang sealant kick for past 10 years. before that pinnacle and black fire. I used their new sio2 on my Jeep’ over a year ago, through a winter, and it’s still going strong. I also never miss a wash weekly with a top layer spray weekly. But I also did that with the old Wolfgang sealant and never got this longevity.

it’s just impressive.

Yeah, Wolfgangs Sealant is top notch. Both for longevity and gloss. There’s so many legitimately really good detailing products out now that it’s hard to make a choice. Wasn’t the case 15 years ago.

 

[Ron93YJ]

Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating 53409

Twice a year, spring & fall, after a thorough wash. Water always beads, mud blows off with no effort at the magic wand car wash. Goes on real quick, too. You can find it at WalMart.

Read more about it here:
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-53409-Solutions-Coating-16/dp/B07XYPS3PS

Is this safe on plastic, glass, stickers, etc? I have plastic fender flares and the 4xe hood stickers and I’d like to try this if I knew I didn’t have to avoid using this on those areas.

 

[BlackTanJL22]

I'm looking for a good wax for off-road & winter elements, primarily winter at this point. Obviously a wax will only go so far to protect the paint, I wouldn't expect a wax to make pinstriping a thing of the past. No need to suggest wrapping the Jeep in 3M film. (you animals! )

What I'm talking about is a wax that provides some protection against the abrasion and corrosion of mud and salt on a Jeep that gets and wears it's badge of honor. Not a Jeep that's detailed the moment a water mark appears. The kind of Jeep that often goes a little longer than it should between washes, without being too abusive on the paint. Something that will last reasonably well through the winter as I have 4 months where being above freezing is fairly rare. Best I can do then is give it a quick once-over with a power washer and park it over a garden sprinkler for a bit to wash away some of the caked on salt.

I can find some info online but it's primarily for cars. Car Dirty and Jeep Dirty are two very different things. Maybe some of you can enlighten me to something I haven't found yet.

Chemical guys butter wax. Can go on in the sun or shade. Looks amazing too. Deep wet look. I used to use mother’s and armour all and the other big names. After chemical guys products came in my life. No changing again. Also MR pink wash soap. With a foam canon.

 

[jimim]

Yeah, Wolfgangs Sealant is top notch. Both for longevity and gloss. There’s so many legitimately really good detailing products out now that it’s hard to make a choice. Wasn’t the case 15 years ago.

Yes totally. I hear ya. I like trying different stuff. I experiment here and there. I could do a full ceramic coating if I wanted but I’m kinda afraid of it on a wrangler cause I don’t do it for a living and I’m afraid of improper build up and don’t want to have to take a machine to the paint. There are just too many changes in surfaces on the Jeep vs say a Tahoe who has large continuos body panels or a hood without crap all over it like scoops and the window cushions. Ya a pro could do it but they do it all day everyday.


My buddy’s past 2 race cars. His Nissan GT-R and now his new vette don’t have ceramic and he is ok with it also. Just sealant.

I might try a new brand of sio2 on my wife’s Tahoe for winter just to compare.

I did on a whim but a sio2 wax. It’s called “not your dads wax”. Got it from auto geek as usual. Wasn’t impressed with it. It didn’t have the finish I thought or the shine and even the longevity.

But u can’t go wrong with Wolfgang, pinnicle, then black fire and detailors pro in my opinion.

But again frequent wash when that winter salt and grime hits it huge. U let it sit on anyrhing it’s going to slowly eat through and u will destroy whatever is on that surface. That’s a fact.

 

[gm920]

Walmart actually has a better selection of Auto Detailing products than many Auto stores.

OP, throw a dart at Griots Ceramic Spray, Turtle Wax Ceramic Spray or Seal & Shine, or Meguiars Ceramic Spray and go with whichever one. You'll be more than happy with any of them and none are expensive, though Seal & Shine is the best value.

Have been using the Meguiars Ceramic Spray, very happy with the results. Completely removed (covered) the light and some not so light pin striping I got in the Eastern Sierra this past summer.

 

[jimim]

I bought a new truck in 2013. I always did one last coat of Turtle Wax Blue Ice liquid wax late in the year that had to do until the water hose finally thawed back out in spring. I just sold that truck, and all the paint and external plastic trim still looked factory fresh. That product did really well. Of course, this is southwestern Virginia, not Utah, but it saw its fair share of salty slush.

Unfortunately, the only product with which I have a good first-hand experience is no longer on the market. Hence my previous recommendation for an unnamed magical "ceramic" spray wax. That's what I'm trying. I'm hoping for the best. I have no choice but to try something else.
I thought about hooking my pressure washer to the drain valve of my water heater tank, but all it would do is become a snow machine. Can you use snow to sand blast salt off the undercarriage? I doubt it.

I'm in the same boat as you as far as washing. Sure, there are car washes, and they are open in the winter, but if you can find one that has running water, you're taking your life into your own hands trying to use it.

Do you really get 540" of snowfall every year?

I’m notorious for bringing home a popsicle from the power wash place down the street. I just use it for watercto blow everything off before I get home. When I get home I can rinse off everything in my garage though. Best money I ever spent when I built. My dads buddy who was my plumber. He got me all setup to wash in side cause he knew how nuts I was. Heat and a drain straight across my intire garage floor with a nice slope to it. Drain out to wash basin deep so it doesn’t freeze up in winter and I’m good. It’s a so worth it. Also makes it nice so my wife can wash the dog in the garage and dry him. We got a cocker spaniel so that’s a 3 hour process cause of its long hair.

 

[jimim]

I did have a 2014 Camaro that I had professionally coated with Ceramic Pro. In the 3-4 years I had that car, it lived outside most of the time. I washed it weekly in drive thru touchless car washes (not recommended due to strong alkaline soaps). The month I decided to sell it, it was hit in a parking lot. The hit was in front of the rear tire, on the body line and gills. Although there was paint transfer, it did not scratch the paint and I had this damage pulled with Paintless dent removal. I'm now a believer in ceramic coatings. ... and Beach Cities Paintless Dent Removal in Huntington Beach.

Ceramic pro is prob the best out there for sure!

 

[whiterubicon]

If you are looking for something that is easy to apply and can be bought locally - it is hard to beat Chemical Guys products. You can get the Butter Wax or their Hybrid Ceramic. Main thing is to get some protection on it.

 

[WagzDad]

No experience with the level of snow you regularly deal with, but here the 2 current go to product I use. I re-coat about every 6 months with either.
1. Maguires Ultimate liquid wax. Traditional application.
2.SHINE ARMOR Fortify Quick Coat - Ceramic Coating. Just don’t use it as a waterless wash like their video implies.

Surface prep is the key to any great application.

 

[Kraty1]

I live in Chicagoland and get the snowy/salty winters plus the summer heat. I try and use a clay bar with MaGuires carnuba wax once per year. Otherwise after a wash I’ll use either Turtle Wax Ice or Ice Seal and Shine. If I’m in a hurry I’ll use a rinceless wash with sealer I found on Amazon, otherwise if the top and or doors are off I’ll use Wash Wax All waterless. Water and mud always beads off my white paint which shows everything! Tried to load a video but it was too large, dirty photos attached for example.

 

[viper88]

Is this safe on plastic, glass, stickers, etc? I have plastic fender flares and the 4xe hood stickers and I’d like to try this if I knew I didn’t have to avoid using this on those areas.

I used it on everything. No white or chalky residue on black rubber or plastics.

 

[Mikester86]

 

[Retrograde]

Is this safe on plastic, glass, stickers, etc? I have plastic fender flares and the 4xe hood stickers and I’d like to try this if I knew I didn’t have to avoid using this on those areas.

Yep. Gives plastic and rubber that "Armor-All" appearance. I try not to get too much on the windshield, tho, as it gets kinda streaky the first time you use the wipers. The streakiness goes away after a few minutes with the wipers on, and it's not a problem after that.

 

[WranglerMan]

Don’t get me going on waxes and vehicle care, I tossed all the cheaper stuff I used for years and stepped up my game after searching and reading and asking tons of questions from guys like @Chocolate Thunder

I currently have Pinnacle Souveran and Megs Hybrid in my collection but have only used the Pinnacle but one has to remember that proper prep is paramount to any quality product applied if done by you or a professionally installed ceramic coating.

I love a clean vehicle so using a wax for now works best for me as it provides that deep wet look even though typical waxes don’t last long.

I have only recently dived into power paint correction and am hooked but one has to understand that proper prep is key so unless you have the time and resources available it’s best left up to a shop and if you don’t want to be bothered by always applying product then a long term will thing would be a something like this https://ceramicpro.com/ceramic-coating-myths-the-truth-about-diy-ceramic-coatings/

The above is just one of hundreds of products but if proper prep is not done you are wasting your $$$

I recently spent about 6+ hours on this vehicle and I learned a lot and have made changes in my setup to address what I missed but I figure do it right or don’t bother

Here are the steps I currently use

1. Wash wheels with separate equip from what you use on the paint
2. Wash vehicle ( I use a single bucket method with multiple MF mitts)
3. Clay bar vehicle
4. Wash again (optional)
5. Paint correction, I currently use 3D One with LC CCS pads, the 3D is sort of a one step.
6. Panel wipe with Megs Inspection 34, I chose to use this over a IPA Panel wipe.
7. Base coat wax (lots of choices from liquid waxes to hard paste but if using a ceramic coat there is a cleaner step involved before the coating.
8. My current LSP is a matched liquid detailer to protect the wax and as I said choices are endless

Im sure this is overkill for some and not enough for the serious detailer but I have a dedicated shelf for vehicle cosmetic upkeep, and I recently picked up a 3” polisher to add to the 6.5” one.

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