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Long post - my list of things to do

Steven

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This is a longer post.

The current considerations for the direction of my build are weight, recovery, and family camping trips. My list is not meant to be a step-by-step to-do list, but more of a guide to keep me on track. I would like to get feedback on my logic as to the order of operations that I will explain below.
The current considerations for the direction of my build are weight, recovery, and family camping trips. My list is not meant to be a step-by-step to-do list, but more of a guide to keep me on track. I would like to get feedback on my logic as to the order of operations that I will explain below.



(1) Air compressor (ORO: York Mini)

The easiest way to gain traction for a self recover is to air down your tires. The problem is that you shouldn’t drive home on deflated tires. I currently carry a bicycle pump that works really well for impromptu workouts and also airs up my tires without much issues. Even though it does works, I would like to upgrade to a York just to have one. It is first on my list because it is an upgrade to my current setup but there is no reason it couldn’t get moved around the list as other priorities become pressing.

(2) Rear bumper (GenRight: Aluminum)

As my family is getting bigger, the JL seems to be getting smaller. This feels especially true for weekend getaways and car camping trips. My wife suggested we get a hitch rack as a solution. I’m not a big fan of those so we settled on a roof rack. As I am starting to look into racks, the one that I like needs to know what rear bumper you have. In case the rear bumper I want changes something on the rack, I figured I would get that settled before getting the rack. Initially I figured I would go with Rubicon take-offs, but a LiteBrite video changed my mind. Now I am leaning towards an aluminum set for weight savings and strength over stock. GenRight is not the cheapest for sure, but they have a good reputation and I like the grade of aluminum they use.

(3) Roof rack (Gobi: Stealth Rack)

As I already mentioned, I need the extra storage space as my family is getting bigger. Any ole roof rack would work, except that I am a soft-top guy and don’t want a hard top. Soft-top compatible racks are a bit less prevalent but there a few good options out there. I’m personally a fan of the traditional aesthetics and Gobi can do a good looking soft-top rack. Better still, they seem to be a long standing and reputable company.

(4) Radio antenna (?)

One of my newer hobbies is radio communications. I already have a radio, but have no good mounting solution for the antenna. A roof rack will provide that solution, I think. I figured I will put it on a hinged mount so I can fold it down and protect it from bashing everything when I’m not using it.

(5) Front bumper (GenRight: w/Winch Gaurd - Aluminum)

The front stock bumper is useless off-road, so I hear. I tend to believe that since mine is already showing signs of weakness after pushing some stuff around at my dad’s place. I see no reason to not get a GenRight front since I plan on using their rear already. Moreover, I need a lighter, but solid, winch mounting solution in lieu of a Rubicon take-off.

(6) Jumper cables (custom)

This is just a project I’ve been think about for a while. I think it would be slick to have an externally accessible power plug to use for jumper cables. The only reason it comes after the front bumper is because I want to have the plug go through the front and rear bumpers.

(7) Winch (Warn: Zeon 12-S)

Do I need a winch? No, but I could help recover a lot of people with one. Why warn? Because they are proven. Why do I need a twelve thousand pound winch? Easy, because the standard rule of thumb is to have 1.5 times the weight of your rig. With a GCWR of 8117 pounds, a 12k winch fits that criteria. Even better, with a 5500 pound GVWR, the winch can still pull 1.5 times the weight of the JL on the fourth wrap. The synthetic rope is for weight savings with the added benefit of less momentum if it snaps. While the Zeon Premium is really fancy, it is the fancy remote control that made me opt for the mid-grade Zeon. I plan on getting the wireless remote accessory for the Zeon, but I didn’t want to give up the ability to plug-in.

(8) Rock rails (?)

After I bought my Jeep, I installed a set of Rubi-Rails. They were a great improvement for protection over the stock side steps. Normally I wouldn’t purposely do something twice, but I got them at a steal of a deal. The only reason I am wanting to swap the Rubi-Rails out is so I can put a set of rails that can support the weight of the Jeep. I don’t plan on rock crawling much and probably not enough worry about that scenario. However, I would like the ability to lift the Jeep with a farm jack using the rails.

(9)Hi-lift (Hi-lift: jack)

Old technology is never obsolete, just niche. A Hi-Lift is a niche piece of equipment that still serves a multitude of roles on the Jeep and is my personal choice for a winch backup plan.

(10) Lift kit (Evo Mfg: long arm…)

Surprise! A jeep guy wants a lift his Jeep. I’m actually not that interested in a big lift, but a small lift is highly suggested for the skid plates that I am interested in. I know I could get away with a puck lift, but that’s no fun. For my enjoyment, I want to try my hand at installing a long arm kit with custom spring rates and tuned shocks. That is mostly a dream… I have a history of trying big and then having to go home. Regardless, Evo makes a kit that has a tucked mounting location but reuses springs and shocks. My idea is to not reuse the stock stuff but go custom, like I mentioned. I am waiting on doing the lift so that way I can have most of the added weight on the Jeep before I try to get a particular amount of lift to clear my tires.

(11) Skid plates (Artec: Full Bellypan - Aluminum)

If you are dropping your rig on rocks, then I don’t think you could really argue against steel skid plates. Since that is not my intent, aluminum will me good enough. I do enough stupid things in the Jeep that my exhaust ypipe has a three inch dent from soft-roading. A full skid system only makes logical sense to me if you’re protecting the underside

(12) Fender flares (Mopar: High Clearance)

Up until this point, there hasn’t been a need for more wheel well space. That is finally changing since I am about ready to swap up to a slightly larger tire. The Mopar fenders are the Rubicon versions. I haven’t done the math to to double check the tire size will give me the angle I am looking for, but these fenders with the lift will clear 35’s. If the math doesn’t work out and I need to go bigger than that, I will have expand my list to include axle upgrades.

(13) Tires (BFG: KO2)

The thing that started this list has made its way to the bottom. Bigger tires give you more ground clearance and that is all I really wanted. I’ve run KO2’s in the past and they’ve been good all around tires. There are other option I am interested in, but I have time decide what tread pattern/compound will suite my habits best.
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donmontalvo

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Never heard of this type of compressor, the York Mini.

When it was time for me to get a compressor, the two best solutions I was aware of at the time were (1) ARB Dual Compressor, and (2) PowerTank CO2.

Weight was my biggest concern, wanting to stay well below the GWVR.

I ended up getting the ARB Dual Compresor, thoughit was the portable model.

I eventualy mounted it under my front passenger seat.

The duty-cycle is 100% so its pretty durable.

Nice to know about the York Mini option, learn something new every day!
 

The Last Cowboy

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It's really hard to go wrong with the KO2s. I've had many sets of BFGs over the years and keep coming back to them. Usually I would suggest load range C for a Jeep, but with the weight you are adding, I would go ahead and get E rated tires.

Speaking of weight. The thing to do now is determine what weight can be reduced either by eliminating some gear or by using a lower weight option, like the bumpers you chose. It sounds like you will be pushing the very limit of the frame and suspension design. I don't like to replace things that aren't broken unless they don't function well, in this case you may want to address it before something breaks. You may want to budget for RCV axles and replacements for the aluminum knuckles on the front axle, or consider replacing it with a Rubicon axle from a JT. The JT D44/M210 has heavier axle tubes and steel knuckles, which will handle the weight better and will be less susceptible to damage on the trail due to that added weight. You can probably build the D35/M186 for less and it will be okay, but the JT axle will be less trouble. Of course you would need to regear the rear to 4.10, or swap a Rubicon rear in. The upside of the swaps are that gears and lockers are included.
 
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Steven

Steven

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Speaking of weight. The thing to do now is determine what weight can be reduced either by eliminating some gear or by using a lower weight option, like the bumpers you chose. It sounds like you will be pushing the very limit of the frame and suspension design.
I took a look at the weights of all the components I mentioned and realized you are absolutely right. I need to modify my plan to reduce my weight. As of now, I think I will be scraping the roof rack and give more thought to what I really need/want out of my Jeep.
 

The Last Cowboy

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Many people get tempted to add a lot of gear without considering how fast the weight adds up. Not only is a roof rack added weight, but allows you pack even more weight in, in the worst of places. Putting that much weight up high seriously affects the center of gravity. You may want to consider a trailer if taking that much gear is a priority.
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