LoD Destroyer Series Sliding Roof Rack

fefe2018

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I had a rack for about half year. I really like it. I just wish the instruction comes with torque spec.
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Grateful1

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It is strange they did not include adjustable legs for when the rack slides. That would make for a great shade spot etc. Maybe have a net or something.
 

Gee-pah

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It is strange they did not include adjustable legs for when the rack slides. That would make for a great shade spot etc. Maybe have a net or something.
You know what I was thinking David?

These are sold at Lowes:

https://www.steel-tek.com/sites/551/uploaded/files/Cross_Over.pdf

You can always order them (the 1 1/4" size that is) by mail or to the store for pickup to save on shipping if your nearby store lacks inventory.

You can slip these over two cross members of the sliding rack before the get attached to the backward and forward facing members and get two 1 1/4" poles that are part of the Steel-Tek hardware.

I think (I don't own) the LOD rack uses 1 1/4" o.d. pipe. Best to check with LOD. @lodoffroad .
 

Grateful1

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You know what I was thinking David?

These are sold at Lowes:

https://www.steel-tek.com/sites/551/uploaded/files/Cross_Over.pdf

You can always order them (the 1 1/4" size that is) by mail or to the store for pickup to save on shipping if your nearby store lacks inventory.

You can slip these over two cross members of the sliding rack before the get attached to the backward and forward facing members and get two 1 1/4" poles that are part of the Steel-Tek hardware.

I think (I don't own) the LOD rack uses 1 1/4" o.d. pipe. Best to check with LOD. @lodoffroad .
Very interesting. Great idea.
 

Gee-pah

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@m3lover1, @Grateful1

As a follow up, allow me to suggest that you, rather than go with the heavy Steel-Tek brand poles, than you acquire ones made of aluminum.

I always find onlinemetals.com a great place to acquire all shapes, sizes, and metal materials. If they have a warehouse near you, you can save on shipping by picking up product. That shipping goes up in price considerably for poles longer than 6': which I suspect you don't need.

The lighter weight poles will make things easier to deal with. And as the poles are not holding weight parallel with the ground, their compression strength, even as lighter weight and strength aluminum, sitting perpendicular to the ground will be far beyond the specs of what the LOD rack can hold.

I might look into getting 6 pieces of the hardware of my last post. Two can hold a pole (2 poles = 4 pieces of hardware) on the rack when not in use, and two can hold the poles vertical when in use.

As the 2 pieces of hardware for holding the rack up when fully cantileverd will, for most of the time, have an empty hole, I'd put a short cutoff piece of pipe in there and torque down the tightening bolt so that it doesn't unscrew.
 

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Couple questions directed to @lodoffroad folks:

Curious about the mount into the tail light area - are the preexisting mounting points there or is there drilling required? Is this point as sturdy as mounting down to the frame similar to the Gobi rear mounting point? I currently have my CVT Rainier RTT mounted on my truck and I want to move it over to my Jeep with this setup. The tent alone is almost 200lbs so looking for something that will be very sturdy even with my hardtop off.

What is your current lead time on JL racks?

Did you ever develop a propane attachment for these racks? Thats a critical accessory for sure.


Thanks.

Ed
 
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Couple questions directed to @lodoffroad folks:

Curious about the mount into the tail light area - are the preexisting mounting points there or is there drilling required? Is this point as sturdy as mounting down to the frame similar to the Gobi rear mounting point? I currently have my CVT Rainier RTT mounted on my truck and I want to move it over to my Jeep with this setup. The tent alone is almost 200lbs so looking for something that will be very sturdy even with my hardtop off.

What is your current lead time on JL racks?

Did you ever develop a propane attachment for these racks? Thats a critical accessory for sure.


Thanks.

Ed
There is drilling required. You can take a look at the install instructions located on our website, there are instructions on how to drill for the mounts. As for the tent, 200 lbs is not a problem, but the max dynamic load is 300 pounds and 250 lbs max to open the sliding rack. Our typical lead time is about 6 weeks. No propane tank mount yet but it is on our project list!
 

Gee-pah

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Couple questions directed to @lodoffroad folks:

Curious about the mount into the tail light area - are the preexisting mounting points there or is there drilling required? Is this point as sturdy as mounting down to the frame similar to the Gobi rear mounting point? I currently have my CVT Rainier RTT mounted on my truck and I want to move it over to my Jeep with this setup. The tent alone is almost 200lbs so looking for something that will be very sturdy even with my hardtop off.

What is your current lead time on JL racks?

Did you ever develop a propane attachment for these racks? Thats a critical accessory for sure.


Thanks.

Ed
https://lodoffroad.com/assets/pdfs/JRR1804 JL 4DR BASE ROOF RACK.pdf

Pages 5 - 7 sir.

The drilling is inconspicuous once the taillights have been reinstalled. The same inconspicuous drilling occurs at the cowl as well. Essentially in both installs you temporarily remove components to gain access to drill points that become hidden once those removed components are reinstalled at the conclusion of the rack's install.

I really cannot see it negatively effecting resale value, and unlikely something checked by a lessor.
 

m3lover1

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Put up the hi lift jack on the rear of the rack. I really like the placement, and no rattles, unlike when it was placed behind the spare tire on LOD's rear tire carrier. Only thing is I might need to adjust depending on if I am able to put the window stakes in for my roof top tent, and whether I am able to install KC Hilites rear chase led light bar right where the jack is mounted.

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ElectricFactory

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Are the cross members easy to remove and put back? I want to use a rack that’s efficient with sun rider and this looks like my best option.
 

Gee-pah

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Are the cross members easy to remove and put back? I want to use a rack that’s efficient with sun rider and this looks like my best option.
While I don't work for LOD, this post from them https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/lod-destroyer-series-sliding-roof-rack.31920/ suggests that your question, rather than requiring a "yes"/"no" answer, might be a non-starter depending on what products from them you go with.

Let me elaborate @ElectricFactory. First, when you speak of Sunrider are you referring to the first open position of the MOPAR factory soft top (hereafter "the top") (premium or basic) or the Sunrider product (hereafter "the product") from Bestop which replaces a hard top's Freedom Panels? (Sure Bestop makes all 3 tops but I need to use clear language here.)

Second, when you refer to the LOD rack are you referring to the base rack--which is stationary https://lodoffroad.com/products/jee...ssmember-kit-for-use-with-base-rack-only.html or the more expensive/elaborate sliding version?

https://lodoffroad.com/products/jee...estroyer-4-door-sliding-roof-rack-option.html

You see, LOD reports in my first link that you can move the sliding rack to its fully cantilevered position, (I'd recommend when that rack is not fully loaded) open "the top" to first position or fully open, and then slide the rack back--whether the rack has cross members or its aluminum panels, or nothing on it.

I don't know if that sliding rack sits high enough to clear "the product" when open....I'd guess it does.

~~~~~~~~~~~~

Let's suppose you are going with a stationary LOD solution. You may need to only remove the front 1/3 of cross members (maybe closer to the front 2/3rds) to be able to open "the top" to first position, or "the product." Allow me to suggest that whatever tightening screws LOD uses on their hardware to make the 90 degree angle between rack and cross member that you acquire that screw head (hex, torx, phillips) at a Harbor Freight store to be compatible with a drill. It will make the work faster.

I would suspect that the sliding portion of the rack is not trivial to install or remove, although very doable, ideally as a 4 hands operation.
 

ElectricFactory

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While I don't work for LOD, this post from them https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/lod-destroyer-series-sliding-roof-rack.31920/ suggests that your question, rather than requiring a "yes"/"no" answer, might be a non-starter depending on what products from them you go with.

Let me elaborate @ElectricFactory. First, when you speak of Sunrider are you referring to the first open position of the MOPAR factory soft top (hereafter "the top") (premium or basic) or the Sunrider product (hereafter "the product") from Bestop which replaces a hard top's Freedom Panels? (Sure Bestop makes all 3 tops but I need to use clear language here.)

Second, when you refer to the LOD rack are you referring to the base rack--which is stationary https://lodoffroad.com/products/jee...ssmember-kit-for-use-with-base-rack-only.html or the more expensive/elaborate sliding version?

https://lodoffroad.com/products/jee...estroyer-4-door-sliding-roof-rack-option.html

You see, LOD reports in my first link that you can move the sliding rack to its fully cantilevered position, (I'd recommend when that rack is not fully loaded) open "the top" to first position or fully open, and then slide the rack back--whether the rack has cross members or its aluminum panels, or nothing on it.

I don't know if that sliding rack sits high enough to clear "the product" when open....I'd guess it does.

~~~~~~~~~~~~

Let's suppose you are going with a stationary LOD solution. You may need to only remove the front 1/3 of cross members (maybe closer to the front 2/3rds) to be able to open "the top" to first position, or "the product." Allow me to suggest that whatever tightening screws LOD uses on their hardware to make the 90 degree angle between rack and cross member that you acquire that screw head (hex, torx, phillips) at a Harbor Freight store to be compatible with a drill. It will make the work faster.

I would suspect that the sliding portion of the rack is not trivial to install or remove, although very doable, ideally as a 4 hands operation.
Sun rider position. I was curious about the rack in general. You buy the base rack then decide if you want the sliding portion or just the Cross members. I just want to know how functional the cross members are.
 

Gee-pah

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Sun rider position. I was curious about the rack in general. You buy the base rack then decide if you want the sliding portion or just the Cross members.
Right. To reiterate: the sliding rack cross members, which come with the sliding rack, appear to have no bends in them, while the ones for the stationary rack seem to: likely to add some height clearance for the very issues you raised.
I just want to know how functional the cross members are.
Another thought @ElectricFactory....? say you never remove the cross members, just slide them all towards the rear close to one another?

As long as they're not connected to the aluminum panels, that would seem doable and easier for putting the rack in limited use Sunrider position functionality or full use, no Sunrider position functionality.

Just a thought.......definitely recommend the drill attachment.
 
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lodoffroad

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Sun rider position. I was curious about the rack in general. You buy the base rack then decide if you want the sliding portion or just the Cross members. I just want to know how functional the cross members are.
The sunrider is absolutely doable with the base rack and base rack crossmembers. You simply remove the forward crossmembers or move them back as GeePah said to allow the sunrider to open! Depending on how many crossmembers to remove, should take just a few minutes.
 
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