LoD Destroyer Series Sliding Roof Rack

SuMeRiaN

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I may only use the rack 4 times a year, is there a way to remove it and re-attach possibly leaving the main supports in the rear and front in place?
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m3lover1

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I may only use the rack 4 times a year, is there a way to remove it and re-attach possibly leaving the main supports in the rear and front in place?
Theoretically you can I think, the front for sure. The rear should be possible as well, but would look weird. What you can do is remove the sliding basket and the front and rear weldments, and keep the base rack on to have better airflow and less drag, but just a lot of work removing and reinstalling and realigning the slide.
 
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How do those that have this LOD rack like it? What are, in your opinion the pros and cons?
 
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lodoffroad

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Passing along some photos from one of our customers that outfitted their Jeep JLU with LOD Offroad equipment and our brand new Sliding Roof Rack for the Alcan 5000! What an awesome beautiful trip that would be!

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Finally got my tent and awning installed.

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Ricky...looks awesome!

To you and other owners, when the rig is traveling at slow speeds, say over a speed bump, and lets say with the radio off, do you hear the sound of metal (of the rack that is) moving, or is it more like a brick poop house?

If it makes some noise somewhat loaded....that's cool. I'm more interested in its noise when installed, but not loaded
 

m3lover1

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Ricky...looks awesome!

To you and other owners, when the rig is traveling at slow speeds, say over a speed bump, and lets say with the radio off, do you hear the sound of metal (of the rack that is) moving, or is it more like a brick poop house?

If it makes some noise somewhat loaded....that's cool. I'm more interested in its noise when installed, but not loaded
Not really. Maybe once, and I adjusted the rubber stoppers a bit and it was gone. For a while something rattled in the back, and turns out it was the rotopax, the lock in the handle that was rattling. That was super weird.

For me the one real annoying thing that bothers me are the two pairs of leveling bumpers on the front stabilizers. The white piece that is on the top portion of the windshield. Those two always make creaking noises when I hit a bump or pothole. Drives me nuts
 

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Not really. Maybe once, and I adjusted the rubber stoppers a bit and it was gone. For a while something rattled in the back, and turns out it was the rotopax, the lock in the handle that was rattling. That was super weird.

For me the one real annoying thing that bothers me are the two pairs of leveling bumpers on the front stabilizers. The white piece that is on the top portion of the windshield. Those two always make creaking noises when I hit a bump or pothole. Drives me nuts
Thanks Ricky. I have another question.

I may be wrong but it seems like in the picture of your rig showing the driver's side you have the ROAM Awning you talked about.

I'm curious, but not critical:

What if you had simply laid a tarp down on the sliding rack below your gear that sits on it? Could that have not served as an awning when you cantilevered the rack?

Maybe my idea is a cluge. Or maybe you don't want the rack fully cantilevered with lots of weight on it for durations. Or maybe the rack doesn't lock open such that should your rig might be pitched on terrain such that the passenger's side is higher than the driver's side that my idea might not work....

Thanks. Thoughts?
 

m3lover1

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Thanks Ricky. I have another question.

I may be wrong but it seems like in the picture of your rig showing the driver's side you have the ROAM Awning you talked about.

I'm curious, but not critical:

What if you had simply laid a tarp down on the sliding rack below your gear that sits on it? Could that have not served as an awning when you cantilevered the rack?

Maybe my idea is a cluge. Or maybe you don't want the rack fully cantilevered with lots of weight on it for durations. Or maybe the rack doesn't lock open such that should your rig might be pitched on terrain such that the passenger's side is higher than the driver's side that my idea might not work....

Thanks. Thoughts?
Yes I'm not sure if I'm gonna have the rack slid open on the trails or during camping much. I slid it out and with the weight it tilted the Jeep to the right quite a bit. Now if they make poles at the end of the rack to support it when opened that changes things.
 

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Installed the rack today, but not finished yet. Still have to work on the sliding part as it's not smooth. That and couple more steps and I should be good to go. Only couple hiccups. LOD shipped me the driver side ladder instead of the passenger side which I ordered. Other was trimming and fitting the taillight. Took a long time to trim, even using the cutout they provided. There's a gap on both driver and passenger side on the inside of the light housing. And due to really hard time fitting it back in, theres quite a bit of gap on the topside of the housing where it was trimmed, as we had to continue to trim more and more to try to fit the light in the housing. Other than that the process was pretty smooth.

Big thanks to @RSenese for help along the way even though he's on the opposite side of the country. Major props.

Here are some progress pictures. Didn't take much and took it quickly...

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Hello. Jeep looks great. I see you installed with the soft top. I have the dual top group - have not put the soft top on yet (got my Jeep February 2019) - storage is my issue. Do you have the hard top as well and have you swapped tops? Also wondering if support between the bars is something that would be needed and if so, what did you use? I'd be looking to put a RTT up there along with some gear.

Thank you.
 

m3lover1

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Hello. Jeep looks great. I see you installed with the soft top. I have the dual top group - have not put the soft top on yet (got my Jeep February 2019) - storage is my issue. Do you have the hard top as well and have you swapped tops? Also wondering if support between the bars is something that would be needed and if so, what did you use? I'd be looking to put a RTT up there along with some gear.

Thank you.
Nope I do not have the hardtop, although I am looking to buy a used hardtop to switch. With the premium soft top, which is the one you have, after installation the top would flap during highway speeds, which is quite annoying. Not really a fault of the rack, moreso of the top itself, as the fabric is very soft and easy to flap. I used two bars and attached it to the lower bar of the basket, and wrapped foam piping insulation on it to hold down the top to keep it from flapping up and down, which helped kill like 70% of the flapping. Keep in mind this is with empty rack. Once I put my Roam box and RTT up there, the flapping was completely gone as those two items prevent wind from hitting the top. It's just if the wind is bad and going against wind then the wind noise is kind of high.

In terms of support between bars, under the RTT there is nothing in between the bars. I do know of another who used LOD's aluminum plate under the RTT, but it isn't needed. I have one aluminum plate up front to hold my Roam box. Hope this helps!
 

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@m3lover1 Ricky:

What's the distance I marked in yellow on a copy of one of your photographs right above the driver's side back door which I've attached and modified (below)?

I'd like to know, looking straight on at that height level, what you would approximate is the distance in inches between the highest point of your soft top, and the lowest point of the tube on the driver's side which runs from front to back of the roof rack.

LOD's plain cross member kit (not shown in your pictures, but below) seems ride higher given its design of angling down as it interfaces with the base rack's front to back members:

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I was wondering if it needs to be bent to clear the roof. Maybe the height is designed to allow the cross members to bend a bit against weight placed on them.

Thanks.






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lodoffroad

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Gee Pah,

The diagram below gives to basic dimensions, not sure what the height of the soft top is, but the base rack cross members do clear. The Base Rack Cross Members were designed to be in the same position (height wise) as the Sliding Rack Cross Members. This way the cross members work with all tops regardless.

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m3lover1

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Yea like what LOD said they will clear. The base cross members are angled down at the ends because they mount to the bar on the base rack. The cross members for the sliding rack mounts to the basket itself, which sits higher than the base rack, which is why those bars are straight.

Sorry forgot to measure this morning before heading out to work,.
 

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@m3lover1 Ricky:

What's the distance I marked in yellow on a copy of one of your photographs right above the driver's side back door which I've attached and modified (below)?

I'd like to know, looking straight on at that height level, what you would approximate is the distance in inches between the highest point of your soft top, and the lowest point of the tube on the driver's side which runs from front to back of the roof rack.

LOD's plain cross member kit (not shown in your pictures, but below) seems ride higher given its design of angling down as it interfaces with the base rack's front to back members:

1589938356413.png


I was wondering if it needs to be bent to clear the roof. Maybe the height is designed to allow the cross members to bend a bit against weight placed on them.

Thanks.






72mOxyd.jpg
 
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