List of Chrysler MS-12991 Engine Oil for the 3.0 EcoDiesel Jeep Wrangler

acfortier

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🤷‍♂️ I think folks are just going by what's in the owner's manual to avoid any potential repercussions... that's all. I'm sure the MS-12991 spec is fairly new, hence why not a lot of manufacturers have it, and it probably cost $$$ to get an oil certified.

You do what you want to do... but I took my '21 Gladiator EcoDiesel in for an oil change, noticed they put in T6 (after they told me that would put in MaxPro), and had them drain it. Again, it's a new engine--I'm not going to deviate from what is recommended. It's got to be there for a reason, right?





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Compression-Ignition

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🤷‍♂️ I think folks are just going by what's in the owner's manual to avoid any potential repercussions... that's all. I'm sure the MS-12991 spec is fairly new, hence why not a lot of manufacturers have it, and it probably cost $$$ to get an oil certified.

You do what you want to do... but I took my '21 Gladiator EcoDiesel in for an oil change, noticed they put in T6 (after they told me that would put in MaxPro), and had them drain it. Again, it's a new engine--I'm not going to deviate from what is recommended. It's got to be there for a reason, right?
Sure, it just might not make any sense to your or I.
 
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Motoristx

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Again, went to the dealership for the Jeep Wave oil change at 26,180 miles. They used part number 68001332PC for the oil. Seeing this on the receipt, I walked over to the parts counter and asked if I could see this part number. It turned out to be Rotella T6! After googling it and verifying it’s for the 6.7L Ram trucks, we looked up my 3.0 EcoDiesel in their computer. Sure enough the JL EcoDiesel had part number 68231020AA listed as the oil, and 68507598AA listed as the oil filter.

Yeah sure, the Rotella T6 will probably be fine. After all, I used it in my Jeep for 6k miles before I realized it was not what was called for. However, I do have a lifetime power train warranty on mine, and plan on keeping it for 250k or more miles. I don’t want an issue to come up, and the warranty be denied due to some technical error.

The service manager came over and said they had to drain the oil and put what was called for in the engine. They also changed the filter as the filter was full of oil. If the service manager didn’t say that on his own, I would have insisted that it get changed.

So this thread is more for those who are concerned about using what is called for in the owner’s manual and in the tech sheets.

My opinion is; the correct oil is better than the incorrect oil. Incorrect oil is better than dirty oil. And dirty oil is better than no oil.
 

acfortier

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SolarWizard

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FinnCustomKnives

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This whole issue of using unicorn blood (MS 12991) in this frigg'n little Italian diesel is ridiculous.
Is there ANY other engines in production (other than the 1500 EcoDiesel) that has such a STRICT engine oil requirement...OR...are we as anal owners, making this a big deal???

I practically put Rotella on my cereal and just cannot imagine Rotella T6 is not totally up to the task.

The whole topic has turned into a big piss'n contest...just like ALL OIL THREADS!

If someone could get ALL the specs and post them SIDE BY SIDE we could make an intelligent and informed decision once an for all.

I don't know about the soot particulate system (and how is it SOOO much different?), but I'm sure the turbo or any component is any more picky on the 3.0 than on other modern diesel engines.

I have two more free WAVE changes before it becomes my problem and I will probably be the Guiney pig...it's gonna be Rotella-T6. Wal-Mart has it everyday for $20/gallon.

Fugg it, cover me, I'm going in. Then we can start a thread on tire pressure...Hmmm, 32.546 psi or 32.483 psi. And I ready to fight over it...rant over
I'm with you, hell we use t6 in the wife's optima sxl. However I have to imagine why they don't want it used in our application is all the exhaust components. T6 will lubricate the hell out of the engine, however if any is burned its really rough on catalysts and the like. Or at least thats how I understand it.
 

MIAZ

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I’ve scanned through this thread trying to figure out what to look for when my first oil change is due. It’s a ways off as I‘ve only got 1700 miles on the Jeep diesel. I see a lot of different ideas and controversies in this thread and don’t want to add to or participate in some fracturing of the Jeep community involved here.
I’ve had 4 other diesel trucks in my lifetime, 3 F-250’s and a Mercedes Sprinter dualy up fitted to a motor home. The F-250’s were the pre emissions 6.9 L and later 7.3 L. I’ve still got my 2002 7.3 and the thought of being buried in it has crossed my mind, I like it so much. All the F-250s loved Rotella and other 15-40 oils, always felt like they ran smoother after oil changes.
Then the Mercedes story: I’m sure many of you are or have been campers, you talk to a lot of people in campgrounds and especially to people with similar rigs. Somewhere in a campground in late 2014 or early 2015, the place and exact time long forgotten in my memory slipping mind, I talked to a guy with the same rig as I had. It was getting towards my first oil change and I asked him about his experience with oil changes. He told me he looked in the manual and saw 5W-40 synthetic and went down to the big box store and bought the correct weight of the biggest selling synthetic oil. He changed it and ran some miles, I think I remember about 1500, and as he was driving a lot of idiot lights, warnings of some kind came on and the vehicle started running poorly. He got it into a dealer and they fixed it, I asked him how much, he put up 5 fingers, I said $500, he said no, $5,000 out of his pocket. I think it was a particulate filter mostly. All because the oil wasn’t LOW ASH!
So are we in the same boat as the aforementioned Mercedes Sprinter that I had? I’m kinda thinking so! I used the specified oil in the Mercedes and didn’t have troubles and I’m planning on using specified oil in the Jeep.
Thank everyone so much for all the help and thoughts from all, especially regarding watching what dealers may try to put into your hellaciously expensive Jeep that is often driven in very remote places and far from civilization and repair facilities. Good luck to all of us and I’m hoping that this gen 3 engine doesn’t have the problems that the earlier generations had.
 

Jteakus

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I have one oil change left in the Jeep Wave program. From then on I was planning to select oil from a quality manufacturer that meets the Ecodiesel requirements. I use a combination of Mobil1 and Valvoline in my autos and Rotella in my diesel trucks.
After following this thread, I think I'm just going to continue to use the Mopar oil and filter when I start doing my own oil changes. I sure won't be going 10k miles on it though.
"Hellaciously expensive Jeep", well said.
 

timannnn6

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Looks like this Quaker State Euro 5W-40 has MS-12991 spec listed on the label. And, at $19/5 qt., that's probably the cheapest you'll find, too:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quaker-State-5W-40-Euro-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/737859365

Although, their spec sheet doesn't list it, but it is from 2018: https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/08430ded-467b-43cb-8d5e-99283302382e.pdf
So is Quaker good to go? It looks like it meets all needs for Ecodiesel unicorn blood.
 

WXman

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So is Quaker good to go? It looks like it meets all needs for Ecodiesel unicorn blood.
I posted a virgin analysis of it on the Gladiator forum. It's got a lot of detergent and anti-wear additives. Respectable TBN number. I'm about to start beating on it this summer to see how it holds up.
 

JRMedic19

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The bad part about all of this is we won't know what damage is being done until well into the life of the engine.
 

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