likelihood of broken front body bolt?

[Stetson]

I broke one putting on DV8 step bars. I didnt use air tools, but i did use long heavy duty ratchet. I had an early JL and when i put the step bars on it, i did not know there was an issue.

I ended up taking it to a body shop and had them remove the broken bolt and install my step bars with new bolts. Cost a couple of hundred bucks.

Stetson

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[Foggy47]

I installed Rock Hard 4x4 Patriot sliders. I like 'em allot. Anyway......I used hand tools and took my time with the bolts. They were a SOB....and I am an old guy. Took a few twists forward and back.....but I was careful to not put too much side pressure on the bolts. Got the job done.....and my sliders are hell bent for strong. I can lift either side with a hand-man jack if need be.

I think some guys get sloppy with the bolts and put some side loading torque on them? Dunno any secrets. Seems it should not be this difficult......but there is some risk with this. The slider install likely took more brute strength than any other mod I've done. Glad I'm past this.

 

[Notorious]

took more brute strength

Yes.

 

[kogar]

Resurrecting this thread. I have the DV8 JL 4 DOOR PLATED SLIDERS WITH STEP, which came with NO instructions. It's DV8, so I'm not surprised. Anyway, I've mounted/unmounted sliders on my JL before, but they were all body-bolted (like the MOPAR rock rails). The DV8 sliders are frame-mounted. I had no issues removing the correct bolts, including the front body bolt (I have an extended rachet -- don't use power tools for this stuff). My first "bad sign" was that the rear mounting brackets weren't wide enough to go over the wide washers on the frame bolts. Ok, fine, a little finesse with an angle grinder (about 1/8" on each side) and we're good. Then I started to put the front frame bolt back on. For some reason, it got about 3/4 of the way in, then just refused to budge. Unfortunately, I overtorqued it and started to strip the bolt head. THANKFULLY, I was able to get the bolt removed again without breaking anything, but the bolt as it is is unusable.

So, two questions:
1) What's the "correct" way to get these bolts on? Should I apply a light coating of grease? I'm no expert, but it feels like the bolt mounts are basically really tight bushings, so my concern is that grease might work against the durability of the bushing.
2) Where the heck can I order a replacement bolt? Preferably one that doesn't have a high Zinc content?

 

[rickinAZ]

Resurrecting this thread. I have the DV8 JL 4 DOOR PLATED SLIDERS WITH STEP, which came with NO instructions. It's DV8, so I'm not surprised. Anyway, I've mounted/unmounted sliders on my JL before, but they were all body-bolted (like the MOPAR rock rails). The DV8 sliders are frame-mounted. I had no issues removing the correct bolts, including the front body bolt (I have an extended rachet -- don't use power tools for this stuff). My first "bad sign" was that the rear mounting brackets weren't wide enough to go over the wide washers on the frame bolts. Ok, fine, a little finesse with an angle grinder (about 1/8" on each side) and we're good. Then I started to put the front frame bolt back on. For some reason, it got about 3/4 of the way in, then just refused to budge. Unfortunately, I overtorqued it and started to strip the bolt head. THANKFULLY, I was able to get the bolt removed again without breaking anything, but the bolt as it is is unusable.

So, two questions:
1) What's the "correct" way to get these bolts on? Should I apply a light coating of grease? I'm no expert, but it feels like the bolt mounts are basically really tight bushings, so my concern is that grease might work against the durability of the bushing.
2) Where the heck can I order a replacement bolt? Preferably one that doesn't have a high Zinc content?

I ended up paying a Jeep dealer $100 to install my ACE rock sliders. Best, and least stressful, expenditure ever.

 

[FINN 2.0]

Never have had trouble tightening body bolts by hand. but for removing bolts I always use a impact wrench and haven't broke one yet but have broken plenty using a breaker bar. If you are worried about using an impact, start with a lower setting.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Resurrecting this thread. I have the DV8 JL 4 DOOR PLATED SLIDERS WITH STEP, which came with NO instructions. It's DV8, so I'm not surprised. Anyway, I've mounted/unmounted sliders on my JL before, but they were all body-bolted (like the MOPAR rock rails). The DV8 sliders are frame-mounted. I had no issues removing the correct bolts, including the front body bolt (I have an extended rachet -- don't use power tools for this stuff). My first "bad sign" was that the rear mounting brackets weren't wide enough to go over the wide washers on the frame bolts. Ok, fine, a little finesse with an angle grinder (about 1/8" on each side) and we're good. Then I started to put the front frame bolt back on. For some reason, it got about 3/4 of the way in, then just refused to budge. Unfortunately, I overtorqued it and started to strip the bolt head. THANKFULLY, I was able to get the bolt removed again without breaking anything, but the bolt as it is is unusable.

So, two questions:
1) What's the "correct" way to get these bolts on? Should I apply a light coating of grease? I'm no expert, but it feels like the bolt mounts are basically really tight bushings, so my concern is that grease might work against the durability of the bushing.
2) Where the heck can I order a replacement bolt? Preferably one that doesn't have a high Zinc content?

Try McMaster or Belmetric for some replacement 10.9 or 12.9 flange bolts.

 

[Megawatt]

I installed my rock hard 4x4 patriot series sliders yesterday. No problem at all. I was ready to use a torch and heat the bolts to deal with the red lock tite but didn’t have to do any extra work.

I started with the rear body bolt since it has no locktite I wanted to get a feel of how much force the bolt would take to remove. I used a 1/2” torque wrench set at 50ft-lbs. Not once on any bolt did the torque wrench click at 50. If I ever felt resistance I would give a 1/4 turn rotation back to tighten then return to removal.

Once rear was out then I jumped to the center bolt (unlimited has three on each side) with blue locktite. Not much difference from the rear bolt.

The front bolt took the longest to remove. One flat at a time to loosen, always waiting for the 50# click that never came. The long torque wrench handle helps with removal, a regular 3/8 ratchet would not be fun. Any resistance felt then back in a 1/4 turn the bolt went. Only had to back it in twice.

 

[JSFoster75]

I've read multiple threads about front body bolts breaking when installing sliders. Is this a likely issue, or a remote one?

I used an impact drill to remove all of mine after breaking the Loctite with a breaker bar, no issues for me.

 

[rickinAZ]

I ultimately paid $100 to the dealer to install my ACE rock rails. Best, and most stress-free, $100 that I ever spent.

On something like this I usually send an email to my three closest dealers. You'd be surprised at how inexpensive it can be using that approach.

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