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Jeepin_OLB

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Nice man looks great! are those KM3 39s?

That soft top is sweet as well. I'm going to try the new @Bestop 2-door soft top this summer.
Thanks! Yes, 39" KM3 with Black Rhino Beadlocks. They were my step up from 37s without doing the full send to 40s. The trektop is great, just the lack of it being a full convertible is a letdown. I'm planning on buying the new version too.
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utahdesignfoundry

utahdesignfoundry

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Thanks! Yes, 39" KM3 with Black Rhino Beadlocks. They were my step up from 37s without doing the full send to 40s. The trektop is great, just the lack of it being a full convertible is a letdown. I'm planning on buying the new version too.
Nice! My KM3s were amazing. Would have went with them in a 39 instead of my 38s but they’re insanely expensive right now
 

BuyHold

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This 2 door build is pure madness. I love it. Thank you for sharing.

On related note, I think I saw your rig make a cameo appearance on a Canadian youtuber's channel whilst on the Rubicon. Recollection of "chipped ring gear on a 2 door", which you mentioned earlier in this thread, is what makes me wonder if same rig. That and you don't see 2 doors on 40s very often.
 
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utahdesignfoundry

utahdesignfoundry

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@utahdesignfoundry

This 2 door build is pure madness. I love it. Thank you for sharing.

On related note, I think I saw your rig make a cameo appearance on a Canadian youtuber's channel whilst on the Rubicon. Recollection of "chipped ring gear on a 2 door", which you mentioned earlier in this thread, is what makes me wonder if same rig. That and you don't see 2 doors on 40s very often.
Haha yes that was me with Casey250. Great guy
 

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utahdesignfoundry

utahdesignfoundry

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Towing my OGT camper with the 40s certainly was not ideal but man it looked badass going down the street. The 2 door tows surprisingly well, even very close to the legal weight limit.

A couple interesting tidbits about towing with the 2 door I'll throw in since many like to say it's impractical or impossible.

A tiny YJ or TJ are legally rated to tow the same weight as a JL, but the JL has far better brakes, width and wheelbase. In Australia, and a few other countries, the 2 Door JL is rated to tow 3300 pounds if the trailer is equipped with electric brakes opposed to the 2,000 pounds in the U.S. This leads me to believe, that for whatever bureaucratic reason, the rating was nerfed to err on the side of caution in the States.

My OGT weighs right around 2,000 pounds and I have had zero issues with sway, stopping etc. Feels very safe, and on 37s and below I can hardly tell its there. With 40s things got pretty sluggish and had me wanting 5.38s.

Screenshot 2024-02-06 at 5.07.37 PM.png
 
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utahdesignfoundry

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After the 40s I ran another set of 37s for a little bit, but those did not last long at all. I just couldn't get used to the size with my 4.5" lift. I will say, towing my camper was much better and gas mileage improved dramatically.

IMG_5126.JPG


Screenshot 2024-02-07 at 10.32.24 PM.png


Screenshot 2024-02-07 at 10.32.30 PM.png
 

beast40

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Sweet Jeep!
 

csharg

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Towing my OGT camper with the 40s certainly was not ideal but man it looked badass going down the street. The 2 door tows surprisingly well, even very close to the legal weight limit.

A couple interesting tidbits about towing with the 2 door I'll throw in since many like to say it's impractical or impossible.

A tiny YJ or TJ are legally rated to tow the same weight as a JL, but the JL has far better brakes, width and wheelbase. In Australia, and a few other countries, the 2 Door JL is rated to tow 3300 pounds if the trailer is equipped with electric brakes opposed to the 2,000 pounds in the U.S. This leads me to believe, that for whatever bureaucratic reason, the rating was nerfed to err on the side of caution in the States.

My OGT weighs right around 2,000 pounds and I have had zero issues with sway, stopping etc. Feels very safe, and on 37s and below I can hardly tell its there. With 40s things got pretty sluggish and had me wanting 5.38s.

Jeep Wrangler JL Lifted 2 Door JL Rubicon Build on 38s, 37s, 40s, 38s, 37s and 33s Screenshot 2024-02-07 at 10.32.30 PM
This is a sweet looking setup. I have been looking for towing/camping options with my 2 door and this looks like a great option.
 

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utahdesignfoundry

utahdesignfoundry

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This is a sweet looking setup. I have been looking for towing/camping options with my 2 door and this looks like a great option.
It works out great for me, I think this is about as many features and amenities that you can fit in a package that the 2 door can tow. I wouldn’t recommend any heavier
 

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Thanks! I appreciate the insight. Not planning on any off-road towing, but I may need the occasional Uhaul or flatbed trailer for larger items. Pros/cons of two door Jeep life I suppose...

I already have CV's up front from the full-time transfer case, but RCV's are planned with the 37's because the factory CV shafts aren't chromoly. The rear Dana chromoly shafts are super cheap compared to RCV's, so they might go on sooner than later - mostly for peace of mind because that's where I have seen the most twisting/damage reported.

I'm capable of all the work aside from gears and welding trusses, but depending on total labor costs, and what is already installed when I get to that point, I might let them do more of the work.

Something I keep floating around in my head is if it's really worth dumping all this coin into the OEM front 44, or if I would be better off just swapping to a UD44 or something else without the FAD and skip the truss? I'm not planning to go any larger than 37x12.50.
Thats exactly what I did on my build. This isnt my first rodeo and leaned a lot from my last JK build. Ultimate dana 44 with 513s and a rubicon crate rear axle I regeared to 513s. Running 37s
 

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Thats exactly what I did on my build. This isnt my first rodeo and leaned a lot from my last JK build. Ultimate dana 44 with 513s and a rubicon crate rear axle I regeared to 513s. Running 37s
Really my biggest hesitations with it are that I've heard the balljoints aren't much better than OEM, and I would rather have RCV's, so that bumps up the cost to swap both, and I still need knuckles.

I have the factory CV axles right now, and I love them for how smooth the power delivery is in 4Lo with the wheel turned. Looked at Fusion4x4 quite a bit to have it built with RCV's, and really the only "negative" is that I will be required to use an ARB locker with them. I know they perform better than OEM lockers, but it adds a bit of cost and complexity outside of adding a new axle. I already have the compressor.

I could also have Fusion build one with Reid knuckles, OEM unit bearings, Dynatrac ball joints, and have everything ready to go out of the crate, but then I'm looking at about $9k. For that money, I might as well upgrade to the Fusion Elite HD60 for an extra $400... and then I might as well get their semi-float 60 rear to match, and then maybe 40's because I have the axles for it! 😂

I am finding it incredibly easy to have this spiral out of control on me.
 
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RhinoJLU

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Really my biggest hesitations with it are that I've heard the balljoints aren't much better than OEM, and I would rather have RCV's, so that bumps up the cost to swap both, and I still need knuckles.

I have the factory CV axles right now, and I love them for how smooth the power delivery is in 4Lo with the wheel turned. Looked at Fusion4x4 quite a bit to have it built with RCV's, and really the only "negative" is that I will be required to use an ARB locker with them. I know they perform better than OEM lockers, but it adds a bit of cost and complexity outside of adding a new axle. I already have the compressor.

I could also have Fusion build one with Reid knuckles, OEM unit bearings, Dynatrac ball joints, and have everything ready to go out of the crate, but then I'm looking at about $9k. For that money, I might as well upgrade to the Fusion Elite HD60 for an extra $400... and then I might as well get their semi-float 60 rear to match, and then maybe 40's because I have the axles for it! 😂

I am finding it incredibly easy to have this spiral out of control on me.
The balljoints have 40k miles on them with no play and lots of black and some red trails on them. They are also greasable and metal on metal similar to synergys so I'm not too concerned about them. I've never been a rcv axle shaft guy just always used spicer sealed ujoints. The ujoints that come with these axles are huge (bigger than rubi ujoints) so breaking them on 37s is possible with some serious tire spin but not likely. The fusion one tons are in my future but not for another few years until we have a bigger shop thats why I went with a more mild build on 44s and 37s for now. Its already been 2 1/2 years on this set up with no issues. Theres no way i'm spending 9k per axle and not running 40s or 42s but thats just me
 

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The balljoints have 40k miles on them with no play and lots of black and some red trails on them. They are also greasable and metal on metal similar to synergys so I'm not too concerned about them. I've never been a rcv axle shaft guy just always used spicer sealed ujoints. The ujoints that come with these axles are huge (bigger than rubi ujoints) so breaking them on 37s is possible with some serious tire spin but not likely. The fusion one tons are in my future but not for another few years until we have a bigger shop thats why I went with a more mild build on 44s and 37s for now. Its already been 2 1/2 years on this set up with no issues. Theres no way i'm spending 9k per axle and not running 40s or 42s but thats just me
Good to know about the ball joints. If I swap axles, I could always run the Dana ball joints until they fail (if they fail), so I guess it's not really up-front cost to factor in. Just something I had in the back of my mind. And I wasn't a strong advocate for CV's until I had them on this Jeep with the full-time 4WD t-case.

And yeah, hard to justify the added weight and loss of clearance with 60's if you're not going big on the rubber as well. Definitely easy to snowball!
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