Lift / suspension suggestions? Mopar vs AEV vs.. ?

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SASQUATCH3000

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From what I have gathered

AEV:
Probably getting 3 inches
Only really needs a track bar
Can handle more weight.
Drives better than stock

Mopar:
Potently 3-3.5 inches
Will need a track bar and more geometry correction
Warranty is still valid
Drives as good as stock

I'm leaning towards the AEV as is sounds like less hassle. The only thing I am worried about it the warranty.
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The only hesitation I'd have towards AEV is the spring rate. Mopar gets my vote there. AEV kit + Mopar springs + adj track bar, assuming you're sticking to somewhat of a light setup.

It's really subjective at that point.

My 392 will likely get an AEV lift once it's available. I'm done with JJ's after my Gladiator. As much as I like them, I don't feel the additional flex is worth the trade off given how strong of an off roader the JL platform is without them -- the stock joints do OK and I don't wheel crazy hard often enough that it would cause a problem.
 
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SASQUATCH3000

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The only hesitation I'd have towards AEV is the spring rate. Mopar gets my vote there. AEV kit + Mopar springs + adj track bar, assuming you're sticking to somewhat of a light setup.

It's really subjective at that point.

My 392 will likely get an AEV lift once it's available. I'm done with JJ's after my Gladiator. As much as I like them, I don't feel the additional flex is worth the trade off given how strong of an off roader the JL platform is without them -- the stock joints do OK and I don't wheel crazy hard often enough that it would cause a problem.
Is that the rate that the springs compress? I assume the AEV are harder to compress?
 

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Ya pretty sure he’s saying AEV is stiffer. I hear they are but have no experience with the Mopar ones. But stiffer doesn’t necessarily mean bad. It’s all about intended use. My ride is not at all harsh but it’s not gonna run washboards full speed either.

I’d recommend you watch these if you haven’t already.

 

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Is that the rate that the springs compress? I assume the AEV are harder to compress?
Yes, they're firmer -- as advertised. My Fox 3.0 Shocks with EVO plush springs on my Gladiator also ride firmer than stock but it's great, even with no weight.

As others have suggested, the Trail Recon video is great!

Also, Dixie 4wd is a great shop! Great folks.
 
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SASQUATCH3000

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Ya pretty sure he’s saying AEV is stiffer. I hear they are but have no experience with the Mopar ones. But stiffer doesn’t necessarily mean bad. It’s all about intended use. My ride is not at all harsh but it’s not gonna run washboards full speed either.

I’d recommend you watch these if you haven’t already.

Wow that guy basically had everything one could ask for when decided between kits lol

AEV and track bars it is.

Would you happen to know what exactly is voided by the if I dont go with Mopar? Is that just suspension warranty? I don't want the engine going on me and them not helping because I put a lift kit on.

(Sorry for the stupid questions)
 

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Wow that guy basically had everything one could ask for when decided between kits lol

AEV and track bars it is.

Would you happen to know what exactly is voided by the if I dont go with Mopar? Is that just suspension warranty? I don't want the engine going on me and them not helping because I put a lift kit on.

(Sorry for the stupid questions)
I mean -- you wouldn't have an FCA warranty on the suspension but you know that. If there was a failure that could be determined to be fault of the lift, that part wouldn't be covered. For example, if your drive shaft failed and they said it was because of the lift (i.e., angles not within spec), then you're out of luck there. But yeah, they can't really void your engine warranty because of a lift. But some dealerships just don't want to work on modified Jeeps. I totally get it -- people put some crazy ass shit on their rigs. Some dealers are mod friendly others aren't. Do your homework there.

Some dealers are just bad. I had a Land Rover dealership once tell me that another Land Rover dealership installed non OEM brakes (lies), and then couldn't figure out how to properly change the oil the next time I took it there. I ended up going to an indy shop.
 

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I mean -- you wouldn't have an FCA warranty on the suspension but you know that. If there was a failure that could be determined to be fault of the lift, that part wouldn't be covered. For example, if your drive shaft failed and they said it was because of the lift (i.e., angles not within spec), then you're out of luck there. But yeah, they can't really void your engine warranty because of a lift. But some dealerships just don't want to work on modified Jeeps. I totally get it -- people put some crazy ass shit on their rigs. Some dealers are mod friendly others aren't. Do your homework there.

Some dealers are just bad. I had a Land Rover dealership once tell me that another Land Rover dealership installed non OEM brakes (lies), and then couldn't figure out how to properly change the oil the next time I took it there. I ended up going to an indy shop.
That's not so bad. Dealers are insane they just do anything to not be helpful or honest I swear. I know everything for them comes down to profit but give a guy a break.

That land rover situation sounds like something out of a bad dream.
 

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That's not so bad. Dealers are insane they just do anything to not be helpful or honest I swear. I know everything for them comes down to profit but give a guy a break.

That land rover situation sounds like something out of a bad dream.
I wanted the service history from a LR dealer. As you may or may not know, there's not a lot of them in each state. But that was worse. No competition. Indy it is. And yes, it was bad. Almost lost an engine.

Overall, it's about profit and FCA mismanages the manufacturer/dealership relationship and dealers mismanage their staff, and hire people that are willing to put up with profit over everything. The good ones leave.

Warranty is the SOLE reason I take my Jeep to a dealership (and only for warranty work). And even then -- sometimes I still won't, and pay out of pocket to fix something rather than get it fixed for free. After all, as it works in software development -- sometimes you get shit for free that you don't want!

Good techs are worth their weight in gold.
 

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I think compounding the problem is that there aren’t many younger folks that want to grow up to be a mechanic (or plumber, or carpenter, or anything that requires hard work or getting dirty).
 

guarnibl

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I think compounding the problem is that there aren’t many younger folks that want to grow up to be a mechanic (or plumber, or carpenter, or anything that requires hard work or getting dirty).
Oh man -- yeah, for sure. There's many reasons for that which would turn into a giant nested loop of a conversation.
 
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I think compounding the problem is that there aren’t many younger folks that want to grow up to be a mechanic (or plumber, or carpenter, or anything that requires hard work or getting dirty).
I have a younger brother that is more suited for a trade. I work a white collar corporate job and he looks up to me so he wanted to do that same. I told him recently "There's nothing wrong with being a plumber. It pays great and you'll always have a job. Everybody shits."
 

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I can’t decide between the two kits for my Rubicon Diesel I have on order.

Has anyone ran geometry correction brackets with the mopar kit? I liked the ride quality on my jk after installing them on there. I just like the idea on my control arms being more parallel to the ground.

I like that the mopar kit uses fox shocks and you can get a matching through shaft steering stabilizer. Have the fox shocks also been retuned for the diesel?

I would run a teraflex front and rear track bar, would probably get teraflex full control arm kit too. I don’t like the idea of flexing out on solid rubber bushings. If I went that far I would probably get their geometry correction brackets to help with on road manners.

I think the mopar kit is overpriced for what you get. They could have at least put the jack base extension in there.

Has any one replaced the upper control arms on the diesel? The videos I’ve seen you have to cut the upper rear passenger side bolt off because the exhaust system is to close to pull the bolt out. Then you have to reinstall a new bolt through the hole in the frame.
 

SalC

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I can’t decide between the two kits for my Rubicon Diesel I have on order.

Has anyone ran geometry correction brackets with the mopar kit? I liked the ride quality on my jk after installing them on there. I just like the idea on my control arms being more parallel to the ground.

I like that the mopar kit uses fox shocks and you can get a matching through shaft steering stabilizer. Have the fox shocks also been retuned for the diesel?

I would run a teraflex front and rear track bar, would probably get teraflex full control arm kit too. I don’t like the idea of flexing out on solid rubber bushings. If I went that far I would probably get their geometry correction brackets to help with on road manners.

I think the mopar kit is overpriced for what you get. They could have at least put the jack base extension in there.

Has any one replaced the upper control arms on the diesel? The videos I’ve seen you have to cut the upper rear passenger side bolt off because the exhaust system is to close to pull the bolt out. Then you have to reinstall a new bolt through the hole in the frame.
I just spent the night putting the AEV lift on my diesel Rubicon and I can confirm that you have to cut that bolt shorter to get it out. Fortunately I saved the bolts from the plastic bumper take-off and there was one in there to use as a replacement. The instructions say you might have to lower the exhaust to get it out, but I just couldn't see a way to get my hand in there to release the exhaust to get to to drop down. It literally was just hitting the top of the heat shield but it was enough to make it jam up.

Everything on the passenger side of the Jeep was a pain in the ass.

I ended up choosing the AEV lift mostly because I have a 200# winch and bumper on the front and the stock suspension was sagging almost 2". AEV is designed for both the diesel and the heavy steel bumpers. That wasn't just marketing, my Jeep now sits level and I regained the upward travel I lost with the bumper swap. I still have a mess of bolts to torque before I can take it for a test drive, let's hope it's as good as people say.
 
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