Let's talk fenders - Metal vs Plastic

[rkwfxd]

I'm researching fenders and I would like to know your experiences and opinions on metal vs plastic.

I really like the looks of the metal fenders from Nemisis and Motobilt and even MC. But I'm a bit concerned that if I bump or lean on a rock, not only will the metal fender bend but it might transfer force to the tub and damage that as well. Or will they help protect the tub? Have any of you crunched an aftermarket metal fender and been able to purchase and replace just one?

I also like the AAL fender chop but it seems like EVERYONE has that on their jeep. The Bushwackers and KDB(?) look good on the plastic side. Depending on how they are mounted, I believe the plastic fenders will either bend/flex or pop off or both so I don't think they will damage the tub but neither will they protect it at all.

I recently had a spotter tell me I was about to hit my BUMPER which is aftermarket and made to beat on so I had no concerns. What my spotter should have said was that I was about to crush my FENDER. Which I do care about a bit. So I scraped up the right rear fender and snapped the internal plastic support so new fenders have moved up a bit on my MPL (Modification Priority List). Never touched my bumper.

FWIW I have the factory LEDs so I'd like to get fenders that are plug and play and I'd love to keep a DLR and turn signal combination if that exists in the aftermarket.

I have a Rubicon with a clear marker light.

TIA

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[TX_Ovrlnd]

They make narrower metal fenders if you like the look, which would be easier to use when crawling. Any metal fender will absolutely transfer the impact into the Wrangler body. Plastic ones are made to bend, flex, and break off versus transferring most of the damage. If you have terrible spotters like that all the time you might want to keep with plastic.

 

[Jim1964]

I’m sticking with plastic for the aforementioned reason of limiting damage transfer.

I also never pay attention to any spotter I don’t personally know. I realize this isn’t for everyone but I’ve been doing this a long time and don’t want a spotter 99% of the time anyway. If it is that rare occasion I want another view then it’s going to be someone I’m traveling with.

 

[SH556JL]

I went with @Quake LED . I like that they are not AAL that everyone runs and AAL charges insane shipping fees (apparently you can call in and they say it’s a computer error and will often ship for free; I just don’t bother to do business with them if they don’t bother to correct it).

I chose to stay with plastic fenders, because I don’t mind the look. But also because they are cheap and can be found everywhere if needed replacement. Also I like the idea that if I hit something, they will just pop off and not push in like metal fenders. I also keep spare mopar white clips in the Jeep for field repairs.

These are plug and play, have DRL. I believe the plug is the same from halogen to led. My Jeep is originally halogen, but programed for LED and I never changed the program when I plugged these in. Works great... My only minor complaint, is the turn signal temperature is a bit warmer then when I was running aftermarket LEDs in my halogen housings. I feel Quake maybe a bit hard to see then what I originally had or I just have bad drivers in the area. I personally think it looks easy enough to see when walking around the front of the vehicle. Sometimes other’s don’t…

EDIT:
These are DOT legal if that’s important. The at least have DOT logos.

 

[GATORB8]

I think it definitely boils down to what kind of wheeling you do (and likelihood of damage). Also, I think my positive offset prevents my tire from protecting the fender.

Slick mud has been the killer for mine, on dry rock it's easier to take your time and make sure your line is right. Probably need a driver mod more than anything, but my passenger rear has been popped twice, once completely off. Both have been because of sliding left to right in a rut where I have a wall to the passenger side I'm close too.

It's really convenient to be able to pop the fender back on with a <$10 set of clips from Amazon.

Metalcloak has a fender chop as well. I do think the AAL's strip LED looks really good, though.

The Bushwacker Hyperform's would be on my short list if I was ditching the factory fenders.

 

[Five Seasons]

Another consideration is that plastic doesn't rust like metals will when exposed to certain environments.

 

[Twist]

IMO the black plastic ones are the way to go. Cheap, bendy, easy to replace or put back on. If they get banged up and scraped the still look decent.

 

[rkwfxd]

I went with @Quake LED . I like that they are not AAL that everyone runs and AAL charges insane shipping fees (apparently you can call in and they say it’s a computer error and will often ship for free; I just don’t bother to do business with them if they don’t bother to correct it).

I chose to stay with plastic fenders, because I don’t mind the look. But also because they are cheap and can be found everywhere if needed replacement. Also I like the idea that if I hit something, they will just pop off and not push in like metal fenders. I also keep spare mopar white clips in the Jeep for field repairs.

These are plug and play, have DRL. I believe the plug is the same from halogen to led. My Jeep is originally halogen, but programed for LED and I never changed the program when I plugged these in. Works great... My only minor complaint, is the turn signal temperature is a bit warmer then when I was running aftermarket LEDs in my halogen housings. I feel Quake maybe a bit hard to see then what I originally had or I just have bad drivers in the area. I personally think it looks easy enough to see when walking around the front of the vehicle. Sometimes other’s don’t…

EDIT:
These are DOT legal if that’s important. The at least have DOT logos.

Yeah I like the AAL but apparently so does everyone else.

 

[rkwfxd]

I think it definitely boils down to what kind of wheeling you do (and likelihood of damage). Also, I think my positive offset prevents my tire from protecting the fender.

Slick mud has been the killer for mine, on dry rock it's easier to take your time and make sure your line is right. Probably need a driver mod more than anything, but my passenger rear has been popped twice, once completely off. Both have been because of sliding left to right in a rut where I have a wall to the passenger side I'm close too.

It's really convenient to be able to pop the fender back on with a <$10 set of clips from Amazon.

Metalcloak has a fender chop as well. I do think the AAL's strip LED looks really good, though.

The Bushwacker Hyperform's would be on my short list if I was ditching the factory fenders.

Yes I carry spare clips as well. While my spotter misspoke, I think me bumping my fender on a rock is still 100% on me.

 

[rkwfxd]

Another consideration is that plastic doesn't rust like metals will when exposed to certain environments.

Great point. If I go metal, I'll probably get aluminum but still, great point.

 

[mferrara91]

I have the Paramount Automotive Hydro Series fenders on mine and love them. Made of steel to match the same texture as MOPAR steel bumpers and rock rails. I'm not as crazy off-road as I stick to easier trails, so I can't speak to any concerns with damage but they're definitely worth a look.

 

[JLUWillys]

I personally like plastic.. just because I lessen my chances of twisting it into the panels and creating more damage. I don't wheel stupid hard.. but I have misjudged a couple trees/rocks here and there..

I love the look of the tube stuff.. but unfortunately this lady living in my house.. hates them.. haha

 

[Oleg]

Hi,
Can someone explain me what the difference between both two items from Mopar store:
Looks similar but price is different.

https://www.moparbayarea.com/oem-parts/mopar-wheel-flare-molding-left-6ce71rxfag
https://www.moparbayarea.com/oem-parts/mopar-wheel-flare-molding-left-6ce73rxfag

 

[GATORB8]

Hi,
Can someone explain me what the difference between both two items from Mopar store:
Looks similar but price is different.

https://www.moparbayarea.com/oem-parts/mopar-wheel-flare-molding-left-6ce71rxfag
https://www.moparbayarea.com/oem-parts/mopar-wheel-flare-molding-left-6ce73rxfag

Probably black vs primed for paint.

 

[Whaler27]

I love the GenRight aluminum fenders on my brother’s Jeep. They‘re much narrower, so they‘re not a great solution for those of us who need better protection from flying mud and water, but they’re crazy strong, crazy light, and it’s a clean look.

On AAL: It’s a fantastic, veteran-owned company that’s suffering from some growing pains and the inability to keep up with rapidly growing demand. I’ve been buying stuff from them for more than two years now and they’ve always been responsive, quick to offer help, and apologetic when their popularity has resulted in my order being delayed, which it generally is, because they can’t keep anything in stock. Their products are first class and they stand behind them.

Their website purchase processing software is irritating, and they struggle with it. Software is not their area of expertise, but they are trying to get it fixed. For now, when their program charges me sales tax, which we don’t have in my state, they undo the charge and make it right. They always make EVERYTHING right.

I’m rooting for these people, because they’re veteran owned (Semper Fi!), they build first-class products, they design and build everything in the USA, they work their asses off, they stand behind everything they make 100%, they bend over backwards to accommodate any special needs, and they do what they say they are going to do.

When they innovate and build a superior product it becomes popular. That’s great. I would never avoid purchasing a superior product from a superior company just because many others have purchased the product. I can’t think of a dumber reason to avoid purchasing the best solution for my Jeep. Just my .02

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