LCG Build-up, 35s or 37s?

[JJSix]

I'm looking for some help on deciding whether I want to go with 35s or 37s while keeping a low center of gravity on my JLUR. My previous jeep was a 2012 JKU and I was running 35s on that with no lift by swapping out the fenders for the poison spyder tube fenders with no fender liners and it worked really well, just a touch of rub at full stuff. Loved both the look and the performance and I'm trying to do something similar now. My plan is to do the AAL fender chop kit and also go with the Artec liners front and back while keeping no lift (though might swap out the stock rubi shocks for Fox's and/or run a 3/4 inch spacer in the front for leveling). Has anyone done this build with 35s or 37s? This is going to be my DD as well as my weekend warrior for off-roading so I'm trying to get the best outta both sides.

My preference would be to go with the 37s but just worried that might be too big a size to go without a lift, not to mention the greater strain on the other driveline and brake components. Conversely, are 35s going to look too small once I do the AAL kit? Thanks!

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[rickinAZ]

I'm looking for some help on deciding whether I want to go with 35s or 37s while keeping a low center of gravity on my JLUR. My previous jeep was a 2012 JKU and I was running 35s on that with no lift by swapping out the fenders for the poison spyder tube fenders with no fender liners and it worked really well, just a touch of rub at full stuff. Loved both the look and the performance and I'm trying to do something similar now. My plan is to do the AAL fender chop kit and also go with the Artec liners front and back while keeping no lift (though might swap out the stock rubi shocks for Fox's and/or run a 3/4 inch spacer in the front for leveling). Has anyone done this build with 35s or 37s? This is going to be my DD as well as my weekend warrior for off-roading so I'm trying to get the best outta both sides.

My preference would be to go with the 37s but just worried that might be too big a size to go without a lift, not to mention the greater strain on the other driveline and brake components. Conversely, are 35s going to look too small once I do the AAL kit? Thanks!

Obviously this is almost all up to personal preference, but I am going with lift-less 35s on my new JLURD. The 37s, visually at least, need room to breathe in the wheel wells so they don't look jammed in - otherwise they look a little clownshoe-ish. 35s are a better fit proportionately. The thing that really put me off the 37s is while they do look badass (on a lifted JL), the weight hurts onroad performance, economy and are a bear to rotate (I'm an older guy).

 

[RV Wrench]

Stock height Rubicon with 35's works quite well. The rear part of the rear inner wheel well liners tend to catch under full compression, but a little work with a heat gun will help prevent that.

If you want 37's at stock height and stock bump stops, you really need some better inner wheel well liners. Under hard impact, the bump stop compression puts the wheel at almost exactly the rear wheel well body cutout. I currently have Rough Country inner rear liners, and they angle in, so my 35's contact under full bottoming-out at speed. I am searching for some good liners that allow a 37 to go all the way to the body line so I dont have to add bump stop spacers. Hopefully someone will chime in with a good recommendation.

37's are a better choice on this rig for extreme wheeling because the belly is so low.

 

[JJSix]

Stock height Rubicon with 35's works quite well. The rear part of the rear inner wheel well liners tend to catch under full compression, but a little work with a heat gun will help prevent that.

If you want 37's at stock height and stock bump stops, you really need some better inner wheel well liners. Under hard impact, the bump stop compression puts the wheel at almost exactly the rear wheel well body cutout. I currently have Rough Country inner rear liners, and they angle in, so my 35's contact under full bottoming-out at speed. I am searching for some good liners that allow a 37 to go all the way to the body line so I dont have to add bump stop spacers. Hopefully someone will chime in with a good recommendation.

37's are a better choice on this rig for extreme wheeling because the belly is so low.

I've enjoyed what I've done on the stock so far but definitely know the liners will have to go. I'm looking at the Artec liners or possibly the AAL ones, both seem really well reviewed and with a good increase in clearance. I doubt I'll get to extreme wheeling on it but the more I get out, the more I wanna try!

Honestly, I have never seen or heard of anyone running 36s before, totally unfamiliar with that size. That might be just what I was looking for and I'm a fan of both The Toyo Open Country as well as the Yokohoma G003s, both of which would be an option, thanks!

 

[LooselyHeldPlans]

I’m of the “nothing more than you need mentality”.

Even then, there’s compromises. If 35s are too low to keep your undercarriage safe, then maybe 35s with some skids would be a better option off and especially on road.

I’m an analytical guy, so I’ve made a weighted decision matrix for all my plans. X axis would be 35s on road, 35s off road, 37s on road, 37s off road. Y axis would be all your considerations, like stress on other parts, effect on center of gravity, weight, etc.

Each cell bets a score of how important it is to you, the percent of miles driven, and a relative “score”. Multiply everything in the cell the get the net cell score and then add all the cells in a column to get the overall score.

it’s tedious, but can help you avoid the bias of just tires.

 

[RV Wrench]

35's on stock Rubicon with belly armor will get you a whole lot of places.

 

[AnnDee4444]

35" Pros	37" Pros
OEM bump stops can be used on Rubicon	Bigger Edit: which means more clearance
OEM tire carrier can work (depens on weight)	Edit: Looks (subjective)
Edit: Most wheels can be used with no reduction in turning radius
No/minor trimming necessary with no lift
Edit: Closer to factory gearing
Less expensive tire
Edit: Easier on brakes, axles, drive-line, etc.

 

[Zandcwhite]

35" Pros	37" Pros
OEM bump stops can be used on Rubicon	Bigger
OEM tire carrier can work (depens on weight)
OEM wheels can be used with no reduction in turning radius
No/minor trimming necessary with no lift
No need to re-gear on Rubicon
Less expensive tire

37's on stock wheels with 1.5" spacers. Less belly dragging. No reduction in turning radius. More clearance. Look better. No need to regear, at least with the 2.0t. It'll still break the tires loose on hard acceleration. Holds 85 mph on the freeway no problem. I'm glad I went 37's over 35's personally.

 

[Headbarcode]

Just for visual reference, here's what 38x13.50's look like on a true 2" lift, that settled a bit below 2", with the full AAL package. As lcg as the 38's would allow, while maintaining off road abilities.

37's are usually more like 35.5". With chopped fenders and high clearance liners, it would probably have a very similar fender gap and flexibility.

 

[AnnDee4444]

37's on stock wheels with 1.5" spacers. Less belly dragging. No reduction in turning radius. More clearance. Look better. No need to regear, at least with the 2.0t. It'll still break the tires loose on hard acceleration. Holds 85 mph on the freeway no problem. I'm glad I went 37's over 35's personally.

In a straight line?

Also, I fixed it for you.

 

[Zandcwhite]

In a straight line?

Also, I fixed it for you.

Our jlu got a 2" spacer lift with the 37's, but as far as turning even before I put the lift on the only rubbing was on the front bumper lower skid. Unbolted it and trimmed the corners and I could turn lock to lock. Without the lift there was rubbing on fender liners, but replacing those would likely be all you would need to remain stock height on 37's.

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