Knock in rear with Dana 44

eck

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Update: My timeline has expanded because my trip got cancelled, so I ordered Red Line 75W90NS (no friction modifier) plus the Mopar additive from Amazon. The Red Line is much cheaper than the Mopar oil, and I can still dial it in the same. I'll change it out this weekend and report back after I pull the cover and inspect everything.





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eck

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Update: My timeline has expanded because my trip got cancelled, so I ordered Red Line 75W90NS (no friction modifier) plus the Mopar additive from Amazon. The Red Line is much cheaper than the Mopar oil, and I can still dial it in the same. I'll change it out this weekend and report back after I pull the cover and inspect everything.
Opened it up and cleaned everything out really well. The fluid was jet black but no major metal chunks or anything. Just some bits that looked like they were from the threads of the plugs or the diff cover bolts that fell out when I disassembled everything. Looking very closely at a paper towel with the fluid on it, it looks like a glitter bomb went off, but I think it's just clutch material. The gears all look in good shape and nothing seems to have any play.

rR2pwIt.jpg


The M220 rear takes about 1.5 qt of oil, and the Mopar additive says to use 2-5%, so I did 2.4 oz which is 5% of the 48 oz capacity. Runs fine, no noises while doing figure 8s.
 

shadowmoto17

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Opened it up and cleaned everything out really well. The fluid was jet black but no major metal chunks or anything. Just some bits that looked like they were from the threads of the plugs or the diff cover bolts that fell out when I disassembled everything. Looking very closely at a paper towel with the fluid on it, it looks like a glitter bomb went off, but I think it's just clutch material. The gears all look in good shape and nothing seems to have any play.

rR2pwIt.jpg


The M220 rear takes about 1.5 qt of oil, and the Mopar additive says to use 2-5%, so I did 2.4 oz which is 5% of the 48 oz capacity. Runs fine, no noises while doing figure 8s.
Is there a video you’d recommend that demonstrates that “noise” that would mean to put some FM to the rear diff?
 

eck

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Is there a video you’d recommend that demonstrates that “noise” that would mean to put some FM to the rear diff?
No clue, this is my first vehicle with a limited slip but I'm assuming it would be pretty obvious if the clutches are grabbing when they shouldn't be.
 

Valkyrie

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Update... As of Monday my Jeep is up and going again. I’ve got the New ProRock XD60’s in and after my 500 mile break in period we’ll see how they do. Hopefully, I’ll have no more axle problems. No ‘Thanks’ to Jeep. Now time to Jeep on!!!
 

shadowmoto17

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Update... As of Monday my Jeep is up and going again. I’ve got the New ProRock XD60’s in and after my 500 mile break in period we’ll see how they do. Hopefully, I’ll have no more axle problems. No ‘Thanks’ to Jeep. Now time to Jeep on!!!
How much did that cost you? I wish FCA/Jeep would own up and fix the issue. I haven't had any issues(yet) with my anti-slip rear diff, but trying to think ahead of the issue. Teraflex is coming out with their JL axles in the next couple months. I know I'll at least be looking to replace the d30 front axle, but on the back burner know that the rear may have to be replaced sooner rather than later.
Just curious, how much did it run you? Did you get some what of a deal? Does it have JK internals?
 

Valkyrie

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How much did that cost you? I wish FCA/Jeep would own up and fix the issue. I haven't had any issues(yet) with my anti-slip rear diff, but trying to think ahead of the issue. Teraflex is coming out with their JL axles in the next couple months. I know I'll at least be looking to replace the d30 front axle, but on the back burner know that the rear may have to be replaced sooner rather than later.
Just curious, how much did it run you? Did you get some what of a deal? Does it have JK internals?
It ran me right at 24K. The ProRock 60’s are made for the JL, they’re 1 ton axles. I went with 4.88 gears, ARB Lockers and Compressor, Heise Switches, C-Gussets and Trusses and Adams Driveshafts. I didn’t want to spend that kind of cash, but after waiting for Jeep to fix it for 4 1/2 months, I got tired of waiting. There were cheaper options, but I figured if I was going to do it, hell... just go all out.
 

shadowmoto17

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It ran me right at 24K. The ProRock 60’s are made for the JL, they’re 1 ton axles. I went with 4.88 gears, ARB Lockers and Compressor, Heise Switches, C-Gussets and Trusses and Adams Driveshafts. I didn’t want to spend that kind of cash, but after waiting for Jeep to fix it for 4 1/2 months, I got tired of waiting. There were cheaper options, but I figured if I was going to do it, hell... just go all out.
dam my wife would really kill me if I did that before i paid off the jeep. I know I'll want at least those gears, with ARB lockers. I have the compressor with the manifold, but would need to run the lines. I also have the 1310 Adams drive shafts but i don't know about c-gussets and trussing it. That's alot to throw down and I've probably put that much into much Jeep altogether but not on just one thing. Bet it feels good rolling down the road/trail. Wish i could throw that much money around.
 

Valkyrie

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dam my wife would really kill me if I did that before i paid off the jeep. I know I'll want at least those gears, with ARB lockers. I have the compressor with the manifold, but would need to run the lines. I also have the 1310 Adams drive shafts but i don't know about c-gussets and trussing it. That's alot to throw down and I've probably put that much into much Jeep altogether but not on just one thing. Bet it feels good rolling down the road/trail. Wish i could throw that much money around.
It will be worth it in the long run, plus it feels great to have my Jeep back up. I’d say, “Just go for it.” It’s better to ask for forgiveness, than for permission.
 

shadowmoto17

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It will be worth it in the long run, plus it feels great to have my Jeep back up. I’d say, “Just go for it.” It’s better to ask for forgiveness, than for permission.
lol, not $24k worth of forgiveness. would be easier to ask for it when the Jeep is paid off, but maybe in a year i can drop some significant change on it so i don't have to deal with FCA/Jeep's inadequacies to build the Jeep right, or fix what they didn't do right. As I've said eariler in this thread, I wish someone would start a case against FCA, and then maybe in the future(after being sued) they'll not do their consumers wrong.
 

Valkyrie

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lol, not $24k worth of forgiveness. would be easier to ask for it when the Jeep is paid off, but maybe in a year i can drop some significant change on it so i don't have to deal with FCA/Jeep's inadequacies to build the Jeep right, or fix what they didn't do right. As I've said eariler in this thread, I wish someone would start a case against FCA, and then maybe in the future(after being sued) they'll not do their consumers wrong.
I wish someone or something would make FCA/Jeep act right too. I didn’t want to have to spend the money to fix what they screwed up and couldn’t fix. I seriously thought about getting rid of my Jeep over this, but between negative equity or fixing my Jeep, either way I was going to be out some serious cash. My experience with FCA/Jeep has left me bitter.
 

shadowmoto17

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I wish someone or something would make FCA/Jeep act right too. I didn’t want to have to spend the money to fix what they screwed up and couldn’t fix. I seriously thought about getting rid of my Jeep over this, but between negative equity or fixing my Jeep, either way I was going to be out some serious cash. My experience with FCA/Jeep has left me bitter.
If I was in some of the people’s cases in this thread that have had actual issues with their rear diff/dealership, sorry to say there’s a new 4x4 on the horizon and I’d drop the Jeep if I had the issues, but also if I hadn’t already invested so much time and money into my Jeep. If you know what I’m talking about what are your first oppressions?
 

Jla93

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Just got mine fixed under warranty after after fighting for two months and visiting 3 different dealerships
 

NTX Black Moab

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We need a thread of dealerships willing to be pro-active about this or at least willing to listen.
 

Jla93

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Opened it up and cleaned everything out really well. The fluid was jet black but no major metal chunks or anything. Just some bits that looked like they were from the threads of the lugs or the diff cover bolts that fell out when I disassembled everything. Looking very closely at a paper towel with the fluid on it, it looks like a glitter bomb went off, but I think it's just clutch material. The gears all look in good shape and nothing seems to have any play.

rR2pwIt.jpg


The M220 rear takes about 1.5 qt of oil, and the Mopar additive says to use 2-5%, so I did 2.4 oz which is 5% of the 48 oz capacity. Runs fine, no noises while doing figure 8s.
That’s exactly how my oil looked
 

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