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Knock in rear with Dana 44

shadowmoto17

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Looks really bad, but not unexpected given the results others have posted. Choose a good synthetic and if you plan to tow increase the viscosity to 75W-140.
I put Royal Purple Synthetic in my axles after the gear install and finished my 500 mile break in gear. Would you say Amsoil is better? I saw a video between the two and the Amsoil seemed to last longer and run better than the Royal Purple. Long run I'm looking at replacing my d30/d44 ASD axles with Rubicon axles for the short run and after the Jeep is paid off putting D60's if I continue to build my Jeep. Thoughts?
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I put Royal Purple Synthetic in my axles after the gear install and finished my 500 mile break in gear. Would you say Amsoil is better? I saw a video between the two and the Amsoil seemed to last longer and run better than the Royal Purple. Long run I'm looking at replacing my d30/d44 ASD axles with Rubicon axles for the short run and after the Jeep is paid off putting D60's if I continue to build my Jeep. Thoughts?
I have used Amsoil religiously since 2010 in the axles in all of my vehicles and it has performed exceptionally well even when towing heavy loads in the mountains and in 117°F temperatures. I would recommend it over any other gear oil on the market as it is arguably the best one out there.

I recommend increasing the viscosity from 75W-90 to 75W-110 as a minimum. 75W-110 is the upper viscosity that 75W-90 used to be before the SAE J306 tables were updated some years ago.
 

shadowmoto17

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I have used Amsoil religiously since 2010 in the axles in all of my vehicles and it has performed exceptionally well even when towing heavy loads in the mountains and in 117°F temperatures. I would recommend it over any other gear oil on the market as it is arguably the best one out there.

I recommend increasing the viscosity from 75W-90 to 75W-110 as a minimum. 75W-110 is the upper viscosity that 75W-90 used to be before the SAE J306 tables were updated some years ago.
Yeah I looked up in the forum for what people were using for gear oil, and should've used the Amsoil. I will say that I've been wondering if I should throw some friction modifier in the rear even though the gear oil says on its label that it has it built in. I want to say I put 75W-140 in the rear versus what it said in the manual. I'd have to find the thread that said that since the manual came out there has been an update for what gear oil you should use if you have a D44 with LSD/ASD rear axle. Couldn't find any "Mopar Friction modifier", but bought another name brand if I start noticing a knocking sound, but I want to say that it might be to late.
 

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At this point I could damn near just flush it out and fill it back up with water from the garden hose, almost as effective as what I have in there now :CWL:
 

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Yeah I looked up in the forum for what people were using for gear oil, and should've used the Amsoil. I will say that I've been wondering if I should throw some friction modifier in the rear even though the gear oil says on its label that it has it built in. I want to say I put 75W-140 in the rear versus what it said in the manual. I'd have to find the thread that said that since the manual came out there has been an update for what gear oil you should use if you have a D44 with LSD/ASD rear axle. Couldn't find any "Mopar Friction modifier", but bought another name brand if I start noticing a knocking sound, but I want to say that it might be to late.
Note that most synthetic gear oils and some conventionals have FM already added to them--RP already has some in it if memory serves. The easiest way to tell if you need FM added to the oil is to get into an empty parking lot with the windows down and all accessories shut off (so that you can hear) and make several circles (both clockwise and counter-clockwise) and listen for any chattering (may sound like clicking).

If you hear it, add very small amounts of additional FM until the chattering stops, Be conservative with how much you add because too much will cause the clutches to slip too much and turn your LSD into an "open axle".

For the viscosity, I am running 75W-110 in the front and 75W-140 in the rear and have not thought twice about it. My Rubicon has the towing package which according to FCA should have 75W-140 in the rear axle,. but it came with 75W-85/90 in it.
 

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shadowmoto17

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Note that most synthetic gear oils and some conventionals have FM already added to them--RP already has some in it if memory serves. The easiest way to tell if you need FM added to the oil is to get into an empty parking lot with the windows down and all accessories shut off (so that you can hear) and make several circles (both clockwise and counter-clockwise) and listen for any chattering (may sound like clicking).

If you hear it, add very small amounts of additional FM until the chattering stops, Be conservative with how much you add because too much will cause the clutches to slip too much and turn your LSD into an "open axle".

For the viscosity, I am running 75W-110 in the front and 75W-140 in the rear and have not thought twice about it. My Rubicon has the towing package which according to FCA should have 75W-140 in the rear axle,. but it came with 75W-85/90 in it.
Ya I'm thinking I'm going to be watching for used Rubicon axles to swap on my Sport. Not only would I like to jump up to 37"s after I've run my current tire bald, but also I don't want to deal with one of the sport axles to give up on me, not saying a Rubicon is much better but I'd hope it would prolong my Jeep till I can get some D60's. I saw they averagely cost $16-18k just in parts.
 

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Ya I'm thinking I'm going to be watching for used Rubicon axles to swap on my Sport. Not only would I like to jump up to 37"s after I've run my current tire bald, but also I don't want to deal with one of the sport axles to give up on me, not saying a Rubicon is much better but I'd hope it would prolong my Jeep till I can get some D60's. I saw they averagely cost $16-18k just in parts.
The Rubicons would be D44 front and rear with electronic lockers so you would not have to worry about deteriorating clutch packs. The Rubicon axles **should be** more durable since they are larger than the D30/35 axles.

Another member shared this with me and you may find it interesting:

https://spicerparts.com/parts/axle/automotive/spicer-ring-and-pinion-gearing-for-jeep-wrangler-jl
 

shadowmoto17

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The Rubicons would be D44 front and rear with electronic lockers so you would not have to worry about deteriorating clutch packs. The Rubicon axles **should be** more durable since they are larger than the D30/35 axles.

Another member shared this with me and you may find it interesting:

https://spicerparts.com/parts/axle/automotive/spicer-ring-and-pinion-gearing-for-jeep-wrangler-jl
Ya I selected to watch this thread since I have a M220 ASD(Anti-Slip Diff) and from what I gathered the LSD/ASD deteriorate pretty quick regardless of gear change. So, my way to to try to avoid that from happening would be to do a Rubicon axle swap, which I'm watching another thread with his swap. My only problem is that I'm stationed out here in Hawaii and there aren't too many JL Rubicon's that have axle swapped out here(yet), so I was looking at maybe ordering from Mopar, or parts store the stock axles brand new. I might have to deal with whatever gears they come with but I'd have those axles versus dealing with a ticking per se bomb that Jeep/FCA didn't want to correct by having a recall of all the LSD/ASD rear axles.
 

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Ya I selected to watch this thread since I have a M220 ASD(Anti-Slip Diff) and from what I gathered the LSD/ASD deteriorate pretty quick regardless of gear change. So, my way to to try to avoid that from happening would be to do a Rubicon axle swap, which I'm watching another thread with his swap. My only problem is that I'm stationed out here in Hawaii and there aren't too many JL Rubicon's that have axle swapped out here(yet), so I was looking at maybe ordering from Mopar, or parts store the stock axles brand new. I might have to deal with whatever gears they come with but I'd have those axles versus dealing with a ticking per se bomb that Jeep/FCA didn't want to correct by having a recall of all the LSD/ASD rear axles.
I hear you! I have been to Hawai'i about 4 times and loved every bit of it. I can only imagine how hard it is to get parts and things.
 

shadowmoto17

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I hear you! I have been to Hawai'i about 4 times and loved every bit of it. I can only imagine how hard it is to get parts and things.
My parts guy has been having issues with warehouse personnel on the west coast since the pandemic started, so whatever parts you can get take even longer to get out here and he's on vacation right now(or at least I think he still is). I don't want to go to the dealership for any parts and the 4 wheel parts store here makes you pay extra for shipping out here. I can only imagine them shipping a axle out here by its weight alone would cost probably another $500 just in shipping.
 

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Anyone have a straight answer on the LSD additive / friction modifier?

It looks like the OEM Mopar gear oil doesn't have any added at all.

Seems all of the other manufacturers of synthetic gear oil have at least some amount of limited slip additive added, but none of them state exactly how much. Amsoil at least claims to still require an additional 2.7oz of the Mopar additive for the M220.

Ideally I need to get this done tomorrow, so the Amsoil may be ruled out just because I'm not sure I can source it locally in time.

Given how problematic these things are proving to be, I'm leaning towards getting the bare Mopar oil and the additive from the dealer to ensure the ratio is correct, considering so far (knock on wood) I don't have any issues and this is just preventative for me.
 

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Anyone have a straight answer on the LSD additive / friction modifier?

It looks like the OEM Mopar gear oil doesn't have any added at all.

Seems all of the other manufacturers of synthetic gear oil have at least some amount of limited slip additive added, but none of them state exactly how much. Amsoil at least claims to still require an additional 2.7oz of the Mopar additive for the M220.

Ideally I need to get this done tomorrow, so the Amsoil may be ruled out just because I'm not sure I can source it locally in time.

Given how problematic these things are proving to be, I'm leaning towards getting the bare Mopar oil and the additive from the dealer to ensure the ratio is correct, considering so far (knock on wood) I don't have any issues and this is just preventative for me.
As noted before most of the synthetic oils (Mobil 1, Valvoline, Castrol,) have FM already in the oil. I would only use a synthetic oil and have the FM on hand in case you need to add more. The only way to know you need more is if you experience chattering in the rear end. You could be very conservative and add 1 ounce before testing (drive in circles, both clockwise and counterclockwise) and listen for a clicking type sound from the axle and add a little more until it stops.
 

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Anyone have a straight answer on the LSD additive / friction modifier?

It looks like the OEM Mopar gear oil doesn't have any added at all.

Seems all of the other manufacturers of synthetic gear oil have at least some amount of limited slip additive added, but none of them state exactly how much. Amsoil at least claims to still require an additional 2.7oz of the Mopar additive for the M220.

Ideally I need to get this done tomorrow, so the Amsoil may be ruled out just because I'm not sure I can source it locally in time.

Given how problematic these things are proving to be, I'm leaning towards getting the bare Mopar oil and the additive from the dealer to ensure the ratio is correct, considering so far (knock on wood) I don't have any issues and this is just preventative for me.
As above, I used Valvoline and no FM (since it is already in the oil) with no problem. I've ran it about 7K miles since without issue.
 

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Update: My timeline has expanded because my trip got cancelled, so I ordered Red Line 75W90NS (no friction modifier) plus the Mopar additive from Amazon. The Red Line is much cheaper than the Mopar oil, and I can still dial it in the same. I'll change it out this weekend and report back after I pull the cover and inspect everything.
 

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Update: My timeline has expanded because my trip got cancelled, so I ordered Red Line 75W90NS (no friction modifier) plus the Mopar additive from Amazon. The Red Line is much cheaper than the Mopar oil, and I can still dial it in the same. I'll change it out this weekend and report back after I pull the cover and inspect everything.
Opened it up and cleaned everything out really well. The fluid was jet black but no major metal chunks or anything. Just some bits that looked like they were from the threads of the plugs or the diff cover bolts that fell out when I disassembled everything. Looking very closely at a paper towel with the fluid on it, it looks like a glitter bomb went off, but I think it's just clutch material. The gears all look in good shape and nothing seems to have any play.

rR2pwIt.jpg


The M220 rear takes about 1.5 qt of oil, and the Mopar additive says to use 2-5%, so I did 2.4 oz which is 5% of the 48 oz capacity. Runs fine, no noises while doing figure 8s.
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