Knock in rear with Dana 44

[Portmod7]

Interesting thread. On my 2020 Rubicon I just got done doing a 2.5" Metalcloak lift, 37" tires, and a 4.88 regear. I am noticing a very subtle clunk on deceleration at low MPH. Any ammount of throttle input makes it go away. I noticed it immediately on the first test drive, no mileage on the new parts. The Jeep had 2900 miles on it when I started the work.

I don't think I had it before, but maybe I'm just hyper aware right now because of all the work I just did to it. I did all the work myself, so I doubt I'll get anything out of Jeep on it.

I haven't read every post on this thread yet, but it sounds like you guys have narrowed it down to the LSD differential. I don't have the LSD, but it seems I'm getting the same issue. If I find a different solution, I'll let you all know. I am going to start by double checking my rear pinion angle and driveshaft.

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[BJG]

Interesting thread. On my 2020 Rubicon I just got done doing a 2.5" Metalcloak lift, 37" tires, and a 4.88 regear. I am noticing a very subtle clunk on deceleration at low MPH. Any ammount of throttle input makes it go away. I noticed it immediately on the first test drive, no mileage on the new parts. The Jeep had 2900 miles on it when I started the work.

I don't think I had it before, but maybe I'm just hyper aware right now because of all the work I just did to it. I did all the work myself, so I doubt I'll get anything out of Jeep on it.

I haven't read every post on this thread yet, but it sounds like you guys have narrowed it down to the LSD differential. I don't have the LSD, but it seems I'm getting the same issue. If I find a different solution, I'll let you all know. I am going to start by double checking my rear pinion angle and driveshaft.

This is pretty much exactly what I was experiencing. For the most part it's known to be the clutches in the LSD.

I am still shocked but pulling off my wheel spacers made it like I bought a new jeep. It's so smooth and quiet now. I plan to install a Rubicon suspension that my friend gifted me and go to 317/70 tires but I'm going to do one thing at a time to keep an eye out for this problem again.

 

[Portmod7]

This is pretty much exactly what I was experiencing. For the most part it's known to be the clutches in the LSD.

I am still shocked but pulling off my wheel spacers made it like I bought a new jeep. It's so smooth and quiet now. I plan to install a Rubicon suspension that my friend gifted me and go to 317/70 tires but I'm going to do one thing at a time to keep an eye out for this problem again.

Interesting. I just read one post where a guy said it made the problem much more pronounced with wheel spacers on. Maybe I ought to throw my stock wheels and tires back on, take it around the block, and see if it goes away. Maybe it's the offset in my new wheels. That would be crazy.

 

[BJG]

Interesting. I just read one post where a guy said it made the problem much more pronounced with wheel spacers on. Maybe I ought to throw my stock wheels and tires back on, take it around the block, and see if it goes away. Maybe it's the offset in my new wheels. That would be crazy.

If you do please update. I am not sure why the offset would cause the problem aside from the extra cantilever. But with the multiple bearing surfaces in the axel environment, it is doubtful that almost any extra load would be transferred into the differential.

I think the sound might be more local to one of the hubs. I never got around to mounting a microphone or action camera in multiple places down there.

 

[JeepCares]

Thank You! However, this morning I am at a loss for words. To avoid any issues during my appointment I removed my wheel spacers this morning.

When I took a test drive i did not hear the sound. I am pretty confused right now and I'm going to keep an eye on it today driving around.

If the sound stays away I might cancel my appointment. This is bizarre...

Thank you for the update, Brian! We're happy to hear this.
Alex
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[SpacemanJeep]

Fixed!

 

[BrntWS6]

Looks like still the same failing part number.

 

[Lou_JLU]

Looks like still the same failing part number.

You're right until a rev -AC unit comes out only repairs are being made no true fixes. Hard to imagine FCA continuing to let dealerships replace nearly everything in the drive line system to resolve a specific problem. Perhaps its cheaper in the long run (even with the crazy shotgun $$$$ parts replacements) to please a small percentage of owners who have interest in maintaining and keeping their vehicles then the larger population. This path is much cheaper than a TSB which covers 100% of the vehicles with -AB units. How many rev -AB units are out there? That would be an interesting number to know. Now that's expensive because to do it right labor hours are involved. Until a hard fix is introduced the problem will continue to be introduced into new model years.

My 2018 was repaired with 100% JeepCares help. I'm thankful for it and glad it was covered but I'm going to turn my back on the repair.

 

[YellowJL]

I have been following this for a while. Waiting for mine to exhibit the same problem. Trying to decide the best course of action.

• Replace it with open diff part carrier number 68401365AA ( https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-carrier-68401365aa )
• Let it fail and take to dealer to replace with same faulty part number, as long as I haven't added even slightly larger tires or anything (they will claim it was the reason for failure and deny warranty work)
• Replace with lockers (electric or arb)
• Trade in on a Rubicon (not an option for me at the moment)
• Purchase the Mopar extended warranty in case it occurs outside warranty period

With the first option or the third option, finding a reputable shop is a challenge I would imagine. If anyone has shop suggestions for Central Va I would appreciate it.

What seems the most logical? I keep going back and forth.

 

[SteadyC]

I’m planning to go option 3, lockers.

 

[Lou_JLU]

I have been following this for a while. Waiting for mine to exhibit the same problem. Trying to decide the best course of action.

• Replace it with open diff part carrier number 68401365AA ( https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-carrier-68401365aa )
• Let it fail and take to dealer to replace with same faulty part number, as long as I haven't added even slightly larger tires or anything (they will claim it was the reason for failure and deny warranty work)
• Replace with lockers (electric or arb)
• Trade in on a Rubicon (not an option for me at the moment)
• Purchase the Mopar extended warranty in case it occurs outside warranty period

With the first option or the third option, finding a reputable shop is a challenge I would imagine. If anyone has shop suggestions for Central Va I would appreciate it.

What seems the most logical? I keep going back and forth.

I'm waiting for the aftermarket LSD / gearing manufacturers to provide more options whether it's clutch pack base LSD's or gear driven. That'll be also my cue to re-gear. For my driving needs and with the select-trak lockers are not the best fit. It's only a matter of time until we are provided all the options that the JK owners now enjoy.

 

[UKCATS]

I have been following this for a while. Waiting for mine to exhibit the same problem. Trying to decide the best course of action.

• Replace it with open diff part carrier number 68401365AA ( https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-carrier-68401365aa )
• Let it fail and take to dealer to replace with same faulty part number, as long as I haven't added even slightly larger tires or anything (they will claim it was the reason for failure and deny warranty work)
• Replace with lockers (electric or arb)
• Trade in on a Rubicon (not an option for me at the moment)
• Purchase the Mopar extended warranty in case it occurs outside warranty period

With the first option or the third option, finding a reputable shop is a challenge I would imagine. If anyone has shop suggestions for Central Va I would appreciate it.

What seems the most logical? I keep going back and forth.

Are there a electric locker option available for the non Rubicon M220 axle?

 

[YellowJL]

Are there a electric locker option available for the non Rubicon M220 axle?

I "thought" I read on this forum there was, but I am not positive.

 

[SpookyXJ]

I have been following this for a while. Waiting for mine to exhibit the same problem. Trying to decide the best course of action.

• Replace it with open diff part carrier number 68401365AA ( https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-carrier-68401365aa )
• Let it fail and take to dealer to replace with same faulty part number, as long as I haven't added even slightly larger tires or anything (they will claim it was the reason for failure and deny warranty work)
• Replace with lockers (electric or arb)
• Trade in on a Rubicon (not an option for me at the moment)
• Purchase the Mopar extended warranty in case it occurs outside warranty period

With the first option or the third option, finding a reputable shop is a challenge I would imagine. If anyone has shop suggestions for Central Va I would appreciate it.

What seems the most logical? I keep going back and forth.

It depends on your use case. Mall crawler I'd go open diff if you like to play around off road ARB. I'd wait till it exhibits issues before worrying too much. This thread kinda freaked me out right after I bought my jl. I'm at 2400 miles no issues on 315/70r17's.

I'm going ARB when I regear but then again that was always my plan. I did not want the Trash-Lok to begin with. I've never been a fan of clutch based limited slips even when they work as designed but that was the only way to get the Dana 44 on an Auto Sport.

 

[StewieJL]

Hi fellow Jeepers,
I specifically signed up to this forum today to share my experience with this issue...
I have been experiencing the same knocking/clunking in the rear at very low speeds only when I decelerate around 15-25km/h as many of you on this forum. I took my Jeep in to the dealer on Nov 9th for them to have a look at it and directly first thing they said was I modified the tires and it is probably the reason why I hear a noise and simply told me nothing was wrong with the car...I drive on 33's BFGoodrich KO2.
I went back home and started doing my research and luckily stumbled upon this forum... I went back the next day and showed them that hundreds if not thousands of JL's had the same issue.
When he finally decided to look into it with care, he found that the drive shaft and rear transfer case had some issues, when he opened it SOLID BLACK OIL leaked out along with pieces of the gears, looked like small metal teeth if we can call it that... took them 3 weeks to order the parts as they were on back order and another 4 days to install them on the car... all in all a bit less than 5 weeks for me to fully recuperate my vehicle.
They changed the whole transfer case, rear drive shaft, replaced the oils and now the car is running smooth with no noise just like before.
I really hope that Jeep finds a solution to this issue as this is not a permanent fix... it is only patching up the wound with a newer/younger part.. the tech at Jeep told me that it is likely to happen again since we are only renewing the part and not changing the piece model itself for something compatible...If this is to happen again when the vehicle is no longer under warranty it will have to come out of our own pockets... This is insane for Brand new 2018-2020 JL's with barely 24,000km's on the car... makes no sense at all.
The good thing is that I was able to get it fixed, even though it took a long time...Now I am not sure what to do next as I feel it is a time ticking bomb until it breaks again...

Wish you all luck in this repair and I felt like I should post my experience as this forum helped me a lot getting my Jeep fixed, hope this will help new comers as well.
Cheers!

P.S I would post a picture of the 2 page repair sheet I got but everything is in french... I am from Montreal, QC

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