KIWI Master 9" JL LED LIghts

  1. Alex12213

    Alex12213 Member

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    I literally plugged the plug in and then ran the red wire to fuse 57
     
  2. Alex12213

    Alex12213 Member

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    I think the actual lights are wired wrong because the night lights are bright enough but don’t shoot far only wide. And the daytime shoot bright light far.
     
  3. Arterius2

    Arterius2 Well-Known Member

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  4. Alex12213

    Alex12213 Member

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    My hi beams aren’t on tho. Triple checked. I have a manual Jeep so maybe it is because of that. With stock lights the main halogen lights would come on dim with enbrake on. Maybe that’s it? My installation was as follows. Took old headlights off. Plugged new ones in to existing cable. Then connected my two red cables together and ran them to fuse 57.
     
  5. Kripas

    Kripas Well-Known Member

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    This is a plug and play . The red wire goes to #57. Either it is wired wrong or you have a faulty one
     
  6. Larock14

    Larock14 New Member

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    I purchased Version 3, have the DRL's wired to #57. Love the lights but ever since the install there is a lot of static coming from the radio when I have FM stations on. I have tried Ferrite Core EMI Noise Supressors, running shielded wire to fuse box, different antennas. Nothing seems to help. If I pull the fuse the static goes away. I have read LED's can cause this but has anyone else had static issues with these lights or did I get a bad set?
     
  7. JSFoster75

    JSFoster75 Well-Known Member

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    i’ve had static since I put in my a-pillar lights, as best I can recall, the LED headlights did not affect my static noise. I think it’s because the wires are running too close to the antenna in my situation. I’m going to go to a wireless solution.
     
  8. Arterius2

    Arterius2 Well-Known Member

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    No static here. What is a wireless solution?
     
  9. JSFoster75

    JSFoster75 Well-Known Member

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  10. TopsOff

    TopsOff Active Member

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    Just so I'm clear before ordering....

    -V1 has a cross DRL and excellent cutoff but NO adjustability built in. (have to use longer bolts with washers) cylindrical optics = more contained light spread.
    -V2 has halo DRL with adjustability but cutoff reportedly not as good - and round dome/optics scatters light more
    -V3 has halo DRL and the best cutoff of the 3 versions, but cutoffs will have 15 degree slants in cutoff per design and same scattered optics due to round optics as V2

    And has anyone run them in winter weather yet? Comments on ice/snow build up? Is there enough radiant heat on lense side to keep them clear?
     
  11. Chipe

    Chipe Well-Known Member

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    I have V2 with the cross design halo. Unbelievable cutoff, no optic scatter.
     
  12. TopsOff

    TopsOff Active Member

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    Ok so now I'm really confused. There's a V2 with cross halo? Maybe part of the confusion is on amazon anyways the seller breaks it down as Model1, Model2, Model3. Model 1 is cross, Models 2 and 3 are Halo. Is there a V1-V3 of each model?
     
  13. Chipe

    Chipe Well-Known Member

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    Ok, before I make an ass of myself, let me go to Amazon and give you the link to what I ordered. Although it wouldn't be the first time I made an ass of myself. :)
     
  14. Chipe

    Chipe Well-Known Member

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  15. TopsOff

    TopsOff Active Member

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    Ok, I'm starting to think that the mis-use of one simple word between Version and Model is really mucking this discussion up. There are 3 "MODELS" advertised on amazon - and it seems the seller might have 3 different upgrade versions across the model lineup? The way it's presented on amazon anyways is that even Model 1 "cross halo" now has adjustability.

    Edit: I just posted the question directly on the amazon listing to let the seller reply.
     
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