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[Jeep Generation]

I know you kind of answered this question for me already. But I need more clarity. I thought I had everything correct, but I have been told I am going to burn up my wiring. I do not understand wiring at all. My friend helped me wire it but I do not think it was done right now. I need a wiring for dummies explanation haha.

I have the factory aux switches. I have the gravity pro6 light bar hooked to Aux 1 40amp. I sliced up the wiring they sent me.

The green wire is hooked up to the aux 1 wire. The yellow is hooked up to the battery. The white is the wire hooked the light bar and I have the black to ground. It all runs through that relay that came with the light bar from KC. I was told to add in an inline 5amp in between the green wire and the aux 1 wire to fix the potential of the wires burning up. I was also told I could get rid of the relay from KC and take the black to ground and the white to the aux 1 wire but with an inline fuse of what ever that light bar specs at (which is usually 30amp for a light bar they said).

For my 2 flex lights on the a pillars, I wired those up to aux 2 40amp. I have no additional relays on those. Should I switch those to the aux 3 15amp? Do I need to add anything else to make it work?

Thanks!

Hi Taylor,

Here are a couple of videos above that might help you out. First one is a video from KC explaining how to use their wiring harness with the factory Mopar AUX Switches in their JT, it would be the same for your JL. Just make sure to change out to the correct size fuse, I'll explain further down. Second is a video that is time stamped at 11:40 where I explain the harness and different ways of setting it up.

If you have a fused relay controller like the Mopar Factory Switches or a Spod or Trigger System, you wont need the in-line fuse or relay that comes with the KC harness, unless you want to use a smaller fused output to control the higher amperage circuit.

The 8-Light Pro6 Bar comes with a 25 amp fuse with their harness, so you wouldn't want to go higher than that. All you would need to do to make it work with your Mopar 40 amp fused output, would be the following...

-1) Change out the 40 amp fuse to either a 20 or 25 amp fuse. I have mine on a 20 amp. You can drop the fuse size, but do not go higher. The harness is rated for 25 amps, so if you leave the 40 amp, the harness can burn up.
-2) Cut the white and black wire off of the relay. See picture below.

-3) The harness plug goes to the first Pro6 light on the bar.
-4) The white wire would go to your fused output (the new 20 or 25 amp from the 40, not the 15)
-5) The black wire goes to a ground connection or negative on battery.

For the Flex Lights, they have a 1 amp draw per light. Not sure what size fuse comes with the kit you got, but 2 Flex lights is way under 5 amps. So hook up these lights the same way as the other harness, but just to another fused output. Also make sure to drop the fuse down to match what is in the harness.

Just make sure that you have an equal or lower amp fuse than what the harness you are using comes with. And never use a higher fuse for the harness or what the controller output is rated at. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

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[DEVIL JL]

Hi Taylor,

Here are a couple of videos above that might help you out. First one is a video from KC explaining how to use their wiring harness with the factory Mopar AUX Switches in their JT, it would be the same for your JL. Just make sure to change out to the correct size fuse, I'll explain further down. Second is a video that is time stamped at 11:40 where I explain the harness and different ways of setting it up.

If you have a fused relay controller like the Mopar Factory Switches or a Spod or Trigger System, you wont need the in-line fuse or relay that comes with the KC harness, unless you want to use a smaller fused output to control the higher amperage circuit.

The 8-Light Pro6 Bar comes with a 25 amp fuse with their harness, so you wouldn't want to go higher than that. All you would need to do to make it work with your Mopar 40 amp fused output, would be the following...

-1) Change out the 40 amp fuse to either a 20 or 25 amp fuse. I have mine on a 20 amp. You can drop the fuse size, but do not go higher. The harness is rated for 25 amps, so if you leave the 40 amp, the harness can burn up.
-2) Cut the white and black wire off of the relay. See picture below.

-3) The harness plug goes to the first Pro6 light on the bar.
-4) The white wire would go to your fused output (the new 20 or 25 amp from the 40, not the 15)
-5) The black wire goes to a ground connection or negative on battery.

For the Flex Lights, they have a 1 amp draw per light. Not sure what size fuse comes with the kit you got, but 2 Flex lights is way under 5 amps. So hook up these lights the same way as the other harness, but just to another fused output. Also make sure to drop the fuse down to match what is in the harness.

Just make sure that you have an equal or lower amp fuse than what the harness you are using comes with. And never use a higher fuse for the harness or what the controller output is rated at. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks! I’ll show this to my friend that helped me.

When you say to change out the fuse, where are these fuses located? Am I literally pulling out the 40 and replacing It with a 20?

 

[Ricootje0311]

Thanks! They’re spots in white. I was afraid of floods reflecting too much off the white hood.

Do you perhaps a have night video or some photos of how far the light goes? I was looking to get a set of these for the a-pillar as well but I'm not sure if the light output will be enough.
They sure look great!

 

[JPAloha]

I added the under hood lights last week, they are pretty bright for the size of them......already have LED Daylighters up front and C3’s in the back....

 

[INCRHULK]

Today I learned about the Trigger Wireless system and I'm cursing the weekend attempt to wire the stock AUX switch panel.

 

[maddscot]

I added the under hood lights last week, they are pretty bright for the size of them......already have LED Daylighters up front and C3’s in the back....

Pardon the dumb questions as I am about to install my Gravity lights in front on the winch protector bar, but I like yours as they are lower (better for amber fogs). as well as the underhood lights

1. What mount are these for your daylighters up on the front?
2. How did you run the wiring in the Rubicon (I have a 19' JLUR) and secure?

Thanks!

 

[JPAloha]

Pardon the dumb questions as I am about to install my Gravity lights in front on the winch protector bar, but I like yours as they are lower (better for amber fogs). as well as the underhood lights

1. What mount are these for your daylighters up on the front?
2. How did you run the wiring in the Rubicon (I have a 19' JLUR) and secure?

Thanks!

The lights are mounted on a piece by Maximus3, I routed the wiring under the grille (following my winch wiring), up and along the fender to the aux. wiring near the battery.

 

[maddscot]

How did you route your underhood lights? Unlike the JL the Rubicon hood "vents" do not allow a pass through in the rib sections of the hood. Was going to install last week and removed the hood blanket. May simply run through slit wire conduit under the blanket. I am kinda OCD when it comes to stuff... thanks!

 

[Miloe]

Wanted to get some comments/thoughts on 6 vs 8 lights across the top light bar. My plan was to only run 6 (4 spots in the middle and 2 driving on the ends) but it kind of feels like Road Armor is pushing me to go for 8 lights. In the picture, I'm mocking things up using factory mounting holes in the light bar and spacing things out a bit across the bar. The mounting holes aren't really spaced out to mount 6 lights evenly spread across the bar, but the holes for 8 lights are evenly spaced across the bar.
Thoughts?

 

[Jeep Generation]

Thanks! I’ll show this to my friend that helped me.

When you say to change out the fuse, where are these fuses located? Am I literally pulling out the 40 and replacing It with a 20?

If you have the switches from factory, it would be in the fuse box next to the battery. If you added the switches after, they are in a separate fuse box that was added with the switches. I don't have these switches, but below should be the ones you are looking for with the switches from factory. You can pull the fuse to double check that the switch loses power. But yes, you would replace the 40 with a 20 or 25. The switch is rated at 40 and so is the wire you tie in to from factory, but you are hooking up smaller wire with the KC harness and it isn't rated for 40. So it would burn up before the fuse would pop.

F92	HD ACCY #2 — If Equipped	40 Amp Green	Cartridge
F93	HD ACCY #1 — If Equipped	40 Amp Green	Cartridge

F103

HD ACCY #3 — If Equipped

15 Amp Blue

Micro

F108

HD ACCY #4 — If Equipped

15 Amp Blue

Micro

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

[Jeep Generation]

Today I learned about the Trigger Wireless system and I'm cursing the weekend attempt to wire the stock AUX switch panel.

I have the Trigger System with the switches above my rear view mirror. Works great.

Let me know if you have any wiring questions.

 

[Jeep Generation]

Wanted to get some comments/thoughts on 6 vs 8 lights across the top light bar. My plan was to only run 6 (4 spots in the middle and 2 driving on the ends) but it kind of feels like Road Armor is pushing me to go for 8 lights. In the picture, I'm mocking things up using factory mounting holes in the light bar and spacing things out a bit across the bar. The mounting holes aren't really spaced out to mount 6 lights evenly spread across the bar, but the holes for 8 lights are evenly spaced across the bar.
Thoughts?

I would add a Wide-40 to each end to complete the full 8.
Wide-40, Driving, Spots, Driving, Wide-40.

 

[JPAloha]

How did you route your underhood lights? Unlike the JL the Rubicon hood "vents" do not allow a pass through in the rib sections of the hood. Was going to install last week and removed the hood blanket. May simply run through slit wire conduit under the blanket. I am kinda OCD when it comes to stuff... thanks!

For now, i.e. while I still have the hood blanket in place, I completely removed the front plastic plugs, drilled a mounting hole right next to them and ran the wiring through the small opening left by the plug - the light itself secures the blanket and hides most of the hole and wiring. Although it was a job I wanted to do “quickly” I wanted it be as neat as possible. If I remove the hood blanket I’ll find a way to run through the gap between the inner and outer sheet metal.

 

[JimLee]

 

[INCRHULK]

I have the Trigger System with the switches above my rear view mirror. Works great.

Let me know if you have any wiring questions.

Thanks, Trigger tells me the switches won't fit in my Sky One-Touch.

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