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WTFSoCal

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Hope they come out with something like the Flex Era 3 but bigger. I'd run a 5 or 6 light version on my front bumper!
Ill tell you what, that 5 led flex light is damn bright, and if you get the 10 light model it comes in a combo light pattern. its a huge amount of light... its what I run on my front bumper and its pretty killer!
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WTFSoCal

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I got some intel that running both at the same time my void the warranty, so I did not connect them to the DRL cicuit. Im waiting for more clarification before i do such.
I did order some amber covers as well as a new hat and a t shirt :)
Interadesting! Keep me posted when you get the clarification please!
OK, from the inside at KC....
(paraphrasing) "due to thermal extremes, it is not recommended to run both the backlights and the led white lights at the same time."

And as i noticed, when i tried it last evening, you cant see the amber backlights at all with the white lights on anyway, so there is no point to having them on at the same time.
thats my story and Im sticken to it... if you decide to test this, and something goes south for ya, well .... theres that.
 
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OK, from the inside at KC....
(paraphrasing) "due to thermal extremes, it is not recommended to run both the backlights and the led white lights at the same time."

And as i noticed, when i tried it last evening, you cant see the amber backlights at all with the white lights on anyway, so there is no point to having them on at the same time.
thats my story and Im sticken to it... if you decide to test this, and something goes south for ya, well .... theres that.
If someone wanted to power the Amber back light with a DRL, fog light circuit or another switch, you can run the Amber circuit through a Normally Closed relay that will kill power to the Amber back light when you turn on the White light. Just have the relay energized by the White light circuit. So if you turn on the White light, it will kill power to the Amber light. Then they wont be on at the same time. Or remember to turn off the Amber before turning on the White Light, Or use the KC switch that already does that.
 

WTFSoCal

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If someone wanted to power the Amber back light with a DRL, fog light circuit or another switch, you can run the Amber circuit through a Normally Closed relay that will kill power to the Amber back light when you turn on the White light. Just have the relay energized by the White light circuit. So if you turn on the White light, it will kill power to the Amber light. Then they wont be on at the same time. Or remember to turn off the Amber before turning on the White Light, Or use the KC switch that already does that.
I just bought a 4 pack of SPDT relays off amazon. I think I want to do the daytime running light thing, but I dont want to risk messing up the lights doing such. John from sPod suggested the same thing, I talked to him to see if there was a way to program my spod to do a reverse trigger but there isnt. So Im going the Relay route. If anyone wants to do the same, you will need a SPDT type relay for 12v at 20/30 , not sure if they make smaller ones, 20A is way over kill but it will get the job done.
 

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WTFSoCal

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INSTALL REPORT: KC ERA 3 Amber DRL Disconnect when main light is activated...

OK to keep things on the up and up with the spec - per KC, I have installed a SPDT relay to handle the issue to power off the amber back lights when the bright white lights are on. These connections are labeled to the terminal names of the relay ( they are all roughly the same if they are a spdt) As far as the connections, its pretty simple to figure out. the 78A terminal on the relay is naturally off and thus connected to terminal 30. when you apply power (turning on the white lights) it causes the relay to switch to terminal 87 and break the connection to 87A resulting in turning off the Ambers. Hope this helps
Jeep Wrangler JL KC HiLites - Pictures / Videos Post Here! CIRCUIT

Works like a champ !

Bonus: If you have a SPOD, you will connect 85 and 86 directly to the bantam or source along with your leads that go to your white lights to the ground and hot connections for that channel.
 

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INSTALL REPORT: KC ERA 3 Amber DRL Disconnect when main light is activated...

OK to keep things on the up and up with the spec - per KC, I have installed a SPDT relay to handle the issue to power off the amber back lights when the bright white lights are on. These connections are labeled to the terminal names of the relay ( they are all roughly the same if they are a spdt) As far as the connections, its pretty simple to figure out. the 78A terminal on the relay is naturally off and thus connected to terminal 30. when you apply power (turning on the white lights) it causes the relay to switch to terminal 87 and break the connection to 87A resulting in turning off the Ambers. Hope this helps
Jeep Wrangler JL KC HiLites - Pictures / Videos Post Here! CIRCUIT

Works like a champ !

Bonus: If you have a SPOD, you will connect 85 and 86 directly to the bantam or source along with your leads that go to your white lights to the ground and hot connections for that channel.
Hi John, this makes sense to me "on paper" but I'm having a hard time picturing it as installed. Any chance you would be able to post some pictures of how this is connected/wired in your rig? I don't have an SPOD yet and will be using 2 Aux Switches on my JL. I think it would make sense to do what you did to prevent both from operating at the same time. Thanks so much!!
 

WTFSoCal

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Hi John, this makes sense to me "on paper" but I'm having a hard time picturing it as installed. Any chance you would be able to post some pictures of how this is connected/wired in your rig? I don't have an SPOD yet and will be using 2 Aux Switches on my JL. I think it would make sense to do what you did to prevent both from operating at the same time. Thanks so much!!
Not sure you would want to run each of the lights(amber and white) both independently from their own switch. but it is possible. Do understand that when you run then as you suggest that the switch that you select to use for the ambers will not power off, or turn off using this method, but rather the power it provides will simply be disconnected from the ambers. the switch will still indicate (by the light on the face of it) it is still delivering power.
It will be hard for me to take pictures, as all my wiring is wrapped up pretty tight in wire loom, and i kinda want to leave it that way. tool a long time to make it nice and organized and pretty looking :)
I feel like if you want the ambers to be on all the time when the car is either in ACC or Run you are better off connecting to an always-on/when the accessory circuits are on. I did it this way and power the amber using a blade connector inserted into the fuse box that runs the 12 cigarette lighter style plug in the back by the door latch. that position in the fuse box allows selecting either always on or on if ACC or Run is on. I use always-on for that plug, so the Acc/Run was available. I stabbed the connector into that 2nd position fuse socket and use it to power the ambers.
I will take a picture of that, and get the fuse block number as well as draw up a schematic of what I have.
Im in the middle of a remodel and need to get some stuff done for that this morning, but I will circle back and get you some more info ASAP.
hang tight.
 

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Pointnshoot

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Not sure you would want to run each of the lights(amber and white) both independently from their own switch. but it is possible. Do understand that when you run then as you suggest that the switch that you select to use for the ambers will not power off, or turn off using this method, but rather the power it provides will simply be disconnected from the ambers. the switch will still indicate (by the light on the face of it) it is still delivering power.
It will be hard for me to take pictures, as all my wiring is wrapped up pretty tight in wire loom, and i kinda want to leave it that way. tool a long time to make it nice and organized and pretty looking :)
I feel like if you want the ambers to be on all the time when the car is either in ACC or Run you are better off connecting to an always-on/when the accessory circuits are on. I did it this way and power the amber using a blade connector inserted into the fuse box that runs the 12 cigarette lighter style plug in the back by the door latch. that position in the fuse box allows selecting either always on or on if ACC or Run is on. I use always-on for that plug, so the Acc/Run was available. I stabbed the connector into that 2nd position fuse socket and use it to power the ambers.
I will take a picture of that, and get the fuse block number as well as draw up a schematic of what I have.
Im in the middle of a remodel and need to get some stuff done for that this morning, but I will circle back and get you some more info ASAP.
hang tight.
Not sure you would want to run each of the lights(amber and white) both independently from their own switch. but it is possible. Do understand that when you run then as you suggest that the switch that you select to use for the ambers will not power off, or turn off using this method, but rather the power it provides will simply be disconnected from the ambers. the switch will still indicate (by the light on the face of it) it is still delivering power.
It will be hard for me to take pictures, as all my wiring is wrapped up pretty tight in wire loom, and i kinda want to leave it that way. tool a long time to make it nice and organized and pretty looking :)
I feel like if you want the ambers to be on all the time when the car is either in ACC or Run you are better off connecting to an always-on/when the accessory circuits are on. I did it this way and power the amber using a blade connector inserted into the fuse box that runs the 12 cigarette lighter style plug in the back by the door latch. that position in the fuse box allows selecting either always on or on if ACC or Run is on. I use always-on for that plug, so the Acc/Run was available. I stabbed the connector into that 2nd position fuse socket and use it to power the ambers.
I will take a picture of that, and get the fuse block number as well as draw up a schematic of what I have.
Im in the middle of a remodel and need to get some stuff done for that this morning, but I will circle back and get you some more info ASAP.
hang tight.
That makes sense and I didn't even think about connecting the ambers that way with a relay. I was going to connect to two switches and just manually turn on and off. With the relay you used it absolutely makes sense to not use two switches. Would love to see pics of your fuse box connection and a schematic if you have a chance. Know you are busy and appreciate the response! I'm in process of installing and this is really helpful! Also, not knowing a ton about relays is there a part number for the relay you used? Thanks so much!
 
 



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