KC HiLITES Flex Era 4 Wiring to AUX Switches

[Daffydnbugs]

pretty happy with the results

FE4? Looks good.

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[tampahoosier]

The amps draw wasn't the issue. The circuits can handle it. The Amber LED could burn out on the board if it was left on at the same time as the main white LEDs over time.

BUT...

I was just notified that this has been resolved in the latest revision of the Flex Era line. It was only an issue with the first launch of the FlexEra 3 and 4. So if you recently received a FE4, it will be fine. It is also a brighter Amber LED than the first launch Amber LED.

How do you know which version you have? I bought mine around late may last year. Ordered at Jeep Beach (end of April) and it took like 4 weeks to be drop shipped from KC.

 

[AZ Hella]

FE4? Looks good.

Yes FE4 thanks

 

[AZ Hella]

How do you know which version you have? I bought mine around late may last year. Ordered at Jeep Beach (end of April) and it took like 4 weeks to be drop shipped from KC.

Would also like to know how to tell the difference. I bought a used set “like new” from Amazon warehouse. How can we tell if they are updated or not?

 

[InVinoVeritasty]

I was just notified that this has been resolved in the latest revision of the Flex Era line. It was only an issue with the first launch of the FlexEra 3 and 4. So if you recently received a FE4, it will be fine. It is also a brighter Amber LED than the first launch Amber LED.

Hey, @KC HiLiTES How do I know which version I have?

 

[KC HiLiTES]

How do you know which version you have? I bought mine around late may last year. Ordered at Jeep Beach (end of April) and it took like 4 weeks to be drop shipped from KC.

Would also like to know how to tell the difference. I bought a used set “like new” from Amazon warehouse. How can we tell if they are updated or not?

Hey, @KC HiLiTES How do I know which version I have?

Hey Guys,

There's a Serial Number on the bottom of the lights, before the fins. Serial numbers of 8031 and below are the older LED chips that got replaced. 8032 and above are the newer ones. If you have any issues, please send me a private message.

 

[Dwightrerskine]

@Jeep Generation @KC HiLiTES or anyone else who's done this succesfully, I need some reinforced guidance please. I've read through all of this and watched the YT videos, but this electrical stuff is new to me. I need some reassurance please!

I'm going to run the FE4's off the Mopar switches. I think the wiring harness below is correct:

1. Red/Yellow to power the mains and connect to switch #1 or #2
2. White to power the ambers and connect to switch #3 or #4
3. Black to ground/negative.

I feel like my questions below have been answered in pieces, however I'm still slightly confused.

1. Does the black actually need to hook to the battery negative or can I use one of the ground posts?
2. Does the yellow / red need an inline fuse if the 40amp fuse for the Mopar switch is swapped for a 15?
3. Does the white need an inline fuse (I can add the other yellow inline from the harness if need be)? Or do I just need to swap out the 15 amp for a 3 on the Mopar switch?

Photo of how the harness is currently wired.

 

[XX4XEXX]

Yes you are correct. Fuses are for your pleasure but yes should be in place. I always run through my fuse not to it. Just make sure your AUXs can handle the apps I'd recommend not running the Flex Whites parallel ambers are ok, keep in ming wire size. Hope pic below helps

@Jeep Generation @KC HiLiTES or anyone else who's done this succesfully, I need some reinforced guidance please. I've read through all of this and watched the YT videos, but this electrical stuff is new to me. I need some reassurance please!

I'm going to run the FE4's off the Mopar switches. I think the wiring harness below is correct:

1. Red/Yellow to power the mains and connect to switch #1 or #2
2. White to power the ambers and connect to switch #3 or #4
3. Black to ground/negative.

I feel like my questions below have been answered in pieces, however I'm still slightly confused.

1. Does the black actually need to hook to the battery negative or can I use one of the ground posts?
2. Does the yellow / red need an inline fuse if the 40amp fuse for the Mopar switch is swapped for a 15?
3. Does the white need an inline fuse (I can add the other yellow inline from the harness if need be)? Or do I just need to swap out the 15 amp for a 3 on the Mopar switch?

Photo of how the harness is currently wired.

 

[Dwightrerskine]

Yes you are correct. Fuses are for your pleasure but yes should be in place. I always run through my fuse not to it. Just make sure your AUXs can handle the apps I'd recommend not running the Flex Whites parallel ambers are ok, keep in ming wire size. Hope pic below helps

Thanks for the reply! You said "yes your are correct.", but I asked quite a few questions. Are you bascially saying that, in the this scenario, in-line fuses are a good decision but NOT required?

 

[XX4XEXX]

1. Red/Yellow to power the mains and connect to switch #1 or #2
Yes

2. White to power the ambers and connect to switch #3 or #4
yes or together ambers all on 1 aux

3. Black to ground/negative.
yes doesn't need to be battery frame os ok

I feel like my questions below have been answered in pieces, however I'm still slightly confused.

1. Does the black actually need to hook to the battery negative or can I use one of the ground posts? no

2. Does the yellow / red need an inline fuse if the 40amp fuse for the Mopar switch is swapped for a 15? no but its a good idea

3. Does the white need an inline fuse (I can add the other yellow inline from the harness if need be)? Or do I just need to swap out the 15 amp for a 3 on the Mopar switch? See question 2, fuse rate per load x3%



Hope that helps

I used a Hella block potted with hot glue. A Dorman negative block. Heat shrink terminals and ran voltage through the fuse not to the fuse.

Thanks for the reply! You said "yes your are correct.", but I asked quite a few questions. Are you bascially saying that, in the this scenario, in-line fuses are a good decision but NOT required?

 

[Dwightrerskine]

1. Red/Yellow to power the mains and connect to switch #1 or #2
Yes

2. White to power the ambers and connect to switch #3 or #4
yes or together ambers all on 1 aux

3. Black to ground/negative.
yes doesn't need to be battery frame os ok

I feel like my questions below have been answered in pieces, however I'm still slightly confused.

1. Does the black actually need to hook to the battery negative or can I use one of the ground posts? no

2. Does the yellow / red need an inline fuse if the 40amp fuse for the Mopar switch is swapped for a 15? no but its a good idea

3. Does the white need an inline fuse (I can add the other yellow inline from the harness if need be)? Or do I just need to swap out the 15 amp for a 3 on the Mopar switch? See question 2, fuse rate per load x3%



Hope that helps

I used a Hella block potted with hot glue. A Dorman negative block. Heat shrink terminals and ran voltage through the fuse not to the fuse.

Thanks you! Let me know where to send you a beer.

 

[Dwightrerskine]

Thanks you! Let me know where to send you a beer.

Well… that didn’t work as I hoped.

I got everything wired up, turned the vehicle on, confirmed Aux 1 turned on the main FE4 lights, and then immediately started to smell something burning. I turned everything off, inspected everything and couldn’t pinpoint where the smell was coming from.

i had my neighbor come over while I repeated turning on the Jeep, press Aux 1 and then within 10 seconds we could both smell something burning.

I turned it off, cut the wires, turned it back on and the smell was gone.
Damn it. No idea what to do now.

 

[JasonInDLH]

Well… that didn’t work as I hoped.

I got everything wired up, turned the vehicle on, confirmed Aux 1 turned on the main FE4 lights, and then immediately started to smell something burning. I turned everything off, inspected everything and couldn’t pinpoint where the smell was coming from.

i had my neighbor come over while I repeated turning on the Jeep, press Aux 1 and then within 10 seconds we could both smell something burning.

I turned it off, cut the wires, turned it back on and the smell was gone.
Damn it. No idea what to do now.

Take a pic of the wire connections and post it up.

 

[Dwightrerskine]

Take a pic of the wire connections and post it up.

Good idea. I'll take some pics a little later this morning. In a moment of panic, I cut the wires yesterday. But I can lay them out to show how it was connected.

 

[KC HiLiTES]

@Jeep Generation @KC HiLiTES or anyone else who's done this succesfully, I need some reinforced guidance please. I've read through all of this and watched the YT videos, but this electrical stuff is new to me. I need some reassurance please!

I'm going to run the FE4's off the Mopar switches. I think the wiring harness below is correct:

1. Red/Yellow to power the mains and connect to switch #1 or #2
2. White to power the ambers and connect to switch #3 or #4
3. Black to ground/negative.

I feel like my questions below have been answered in pieces, however I'm still slightly confused.

1. Does the black actually need to hook to the battery negative or can I use one of the ground posts?
2. Does the yellow / red need an inline fuse if the 40amp fuse for the Mopar switch is swapped for a 15?
3. Does the white need an inline fuse (I can add the other yellow inline from the harness if need be)? Or do I just need to swap out the 15 amp for a 3 on the Mopar switch?

Photo of how the harness is currently wired.

Hello Dwight,
Please see comments below. Hope this helps. Sorry for the delay. We have been on the trail all weekend.

1. Red/Yellow to power the mains and connect to switch #1 or #2 - Yes, they are rated at 40amps, the draw for the two FE4s is about 14amps.
2. White to power the ambers and connect to switch #3 or #4 - Yes, they are rated at 15amps, the draw is less than 3amps for the Amber back light.
3. Black to ground/negative. - Correct.
-
1. Does the black actually need to hook to the battery negative or can I use one of the ground posts? - Technically it would work either way. There is a connection between the negative post of the battery and the chassis. But you will get a better direct path if you go straight to the battery negative post.
2. Does the yellow / red need an inline fuse if the 40amp fuse for the Mopar switch is swapped for a 15? - The KC harness is rated up to 25amps. So it needs to be protected at 25amps min. You can either swap out the 40amp cartridge fuse for a 25amp, or just make the switch connection with the inline fuse of 25amps. I would personally leave the 40amp cartridge fuse alone, they are harder to get, and just use the inline fuse of 20 or 25amps. Lower fuse would be better.
3. Does the white need an inline fuse (I can add the other yellow inline from the harness if need be)? Or do I just need to swap out the 15 amp for a 3 on the Mopar switch? Yes, same type of set up as the main light with the 25amp on the 40. Switches 3 and 4 are rated at 15 amps, but the back light is protected by a 3amp fuse. You can either swap out the 15 amps for a 3 amp, or simply add the inline 3amp fuse to protect it.

Hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have any other questions.

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