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KC HiLITES Flex Era 4 Wiring to AUX Switches

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You are looking at around 35 amp with 5 of those FE4 for the white light. The amber is a different feed than the white light. So if the 40 amp blows, it wouldn't effect the amber light. That diagram you linked doesn't show using any relays, it uses the mopar internal relay for the factory switches. You mentioned you had relays installed, so that could be where the issue is coming from. Excessive heat can cause that relay to blow early also. I will send you a private message. See if I can help you figure this out. Can you send me some pictures of your install and where and how you have the relays installed?
Got it!!! Thanks for reaching out!!
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I am wiring up two Flex Era 4’s. I have another two on back order. I asked KC if I could wire all 4 to the 40 Amp Aux 1 and they said that shouldn’t be a problem but I couldn’t add the 5th like I originally wanted.

my question is should I change the fuse’? Four amber on 3 Amp fuse or something else? Electrical is not my strength....
1615814258041.png

I'm not sure what the Amber back light pulls. It is going to be less than the cyclones though. The cyclones only pull .42 amps. If you had 5 of them that is 2.1 amps. So the 3 amp should cover it.

The main white light pulls 6.7 amps each light. If you had 5 of them, that is 33.5 amps. So the 40 amp switch should work. BUT, I would not daisy chain them together. The KC harness is only rated at 25 amps. If you want them all to be on the same switch. I would run the 25 amp in-line fuse on the 3 sets of runs. 2 on one, 2 on the other, and the 5th on the last. Then tie all of the 25amp in-line fuses to your 40amp switch leg. The 40 amp would cover the the load of all 5 and the in-line fuses would cover its own circuit. You can drop the fuses also if you want it to equal 40. It doesn't matter though.
Jeep Wrangler JL KC HiLITES Flex Era 4 Wiring to AUX Switches 1646259810792


Here is another option to reduce the load on the switch. Also to add the amber back light shut off for a DRL set up.
 

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auxswitches.png
Jeep-Wrangler-JL-2017-2020_en1-fuse-box-diagram.jpg


Here are some pictures of the KC harness and info on the Mopar Switches with Fuse locations.

The 2 legs going to the actual FE4 lights each have 3 wires in them. Red, Black and White.

The Blacks need to go to your battery negative for best connection.

The Whites are the Amber back light. If you want to use a AUX Switch, I would recommend Switch #3 or #4. They are 15 amps max. To match the KC wiring, you should swap out that 15 amp Micro Fuse for a 3 amp to match what they are using to safe off that wire to the light. They want it to pop at 3 amps, not 15.

The Reds are the Main White Light. I would recommend to use with Switch #1 or #2 as they are rated at 40 amps max. Now I would recommend swapping out the 40 amp Cartridge Fuse for a 25 amp to match the KC wiring. They want it to pop at 25, not 40. By the time it reaches 40 amps, something could burn up. If it is hard to find the Cartridge Fuse (not a common fuse), you would also use the KC 25 amp inline fuse between the Mopar Switch leg and the KC Red wires.

Note that KC did not intend for both White and Amber to be on at the same time. So make sure to turn off the Amber before turning on the White.

Hope this helps. Let me know if anyone has any questions.
Dear jeep generation,

Here are 3 options of wiring the harness to the jeep JL aux system. Please check which one would be the best option to go with. I would prefer to go with fog-light set up which is option 1 or 2, the wires are not yet joint or installed in the vehicle.

Jeep Wrangler JL KC HiLITES Flex Era 4 Wiring to AUX Switches WhatsApp Image 2022-04-27 at 2.11.32 PM


Jeep Wrangler JL KC HiLITES Flex Era 4 Wiring to AUX Switches WhatsApp Image 2022-04-27 at 2.11.33 PM (1)


WhatsApp Image 2022-04-27 at 2.11.32 PM (1).jpeg
 

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Dear jeep generation,

Here are 3 options of wiring the harness to the jeep JL aux system. Please check which one would be the best option to go with. I would prefer to go with fog-light set up which is option 1 or 2, the wires are not yet joint or installed in the vehicle.

Jeep Wrangler JL KC HiLITES Flex Era 4 Wiring to AUX Switches WhatsApp Image 2022-04-27 at 2.11.32 PM (1)


Jeep Wrangler JL KC HiLITES Flex Era 4 Wiring to AUX Switches WhatsApp Image 2022-04-27 at 2.11.32 PM (1)


Jeep Wrangler JL KC HiLITES Flex Era 4 Wiring to AUX Switches WhatsApp Image 2022-04-27 at 2.11.32 PM (1)


Option 3 would be the best if you control it with just two separate switches and don't plan to switch out your factory fuses. Make sure to not have both the main light and back light on at the same time. Otherwise you can do Option 2 if you swap out the factory fuses to match the KC harness inline fuses. Not sure how it would work with Fog lights, I never tested it. In theory it should work, but it "could" cause hyper flash issues. Not sure without testing it. If you have an auto on, like a DRL or Fogs, you should add in a kill relay for when the White light comes on. I have a video showing that in the above video.
 

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Option 3 would be the best if you control it with just two separate switches and don't plan to switch out your factory fuses. Make sure to not have both the main light and back light on at the same time. Otherwise you can do Option 2 if you swap out the factory fuses to match the KC harness inline fuses. Not sure how it would work with Fog lights, I never tested it. In theory it should work, but it "could" cause hyper flash issues. Not sure without testing it. If you have an auto on, like a DRL or Fogs, you should add in a kill relay for when the White light comes on. I have a video showing that in the above video.
I just got my Flex Era 4 lights this week. While chatting with @KC HiLiTES support last week I was told that newer versions of the Flex Era 4 lights have an internal cut off for the Amber. They said that now, if the amber back light is on and you switch power on to the lights the amber will automatically cut off. If i recall, he said the change happened late last year at some point. Maybe @KC HiLiTES can confirm this.

If that is the case, I just want to run my amber lights on as DRLs/Running lights. So on during the day and one when lights are on at night. Where should my white wire tap into?
 

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I just got my Flex Era 4 lights this week. While chatting with @KC HiLiTES support last week I was told that newer versions of the Flex Era 4 lights have an internal cut off for the Amber. They said that now, if the amber back light is on and you switch power on to the lights the amber will automatically cut off. If i recall, he said the change happened late last year at some point. Maybe @KC HiLiTES can confirm this.

If that is the case, I just want to run my amber lights on as DRLs/Running lights. So on during the day and one when lights are on at night. Where should my white wire tap into?
Hello,
Sorry if there was some confusion. There was talks to try and accomplish this. But currently, the FE4 does not have a hierarchy on the back light and main light. They will both light up. I just confirmed with out engineers.
 

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Hello,
Sorry if there was some confusion. There was talks to try and accomplish this. But currently, the FE4 does not have a hierarchy on the back light and main light. They will both light up. I just confirmed with out engineers.
I’m glad you confirmed that, the tech I spoke with was sure it was implemented back in the fall. Sounds like he never followed up on that, thank you!
 

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I’m glad you confirmed that, the tech I spoke with was sure it was implemented back in the fall. Sounds like he never followed up on that, thank you!
Sorry about that. I Just sent them all a heads up about this conversation.
 

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Can anyone inform why you can not run the amber with the high power lights?
 

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I called tech a few weeks back and landed in India I believe. The rep told me yes they could but I forgot to ask I want to run amber as drl diff power supply (acc/on) and whites on switch via aux (Lasfit). I don't see an issue with both on the amps of the amber's is minimal like .3 or so, but impeedance, interference, back feed power from acc/on source..... I guess i should of tested myself then posted. Any info would be great.
 

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Can anyone inform why you can not run the amber with the high power lights?
That’s actually a great question! @KC HiLiTES is there a reason both can’t be in at once?


We do not recommend running the Amber Back Light at the same time as the Main White Light. It can cause damage to the Amber LED. The switch that we provide prevents them both from being on at the same time. If a auto function is going to be used, such as a running light, then a relay would need to be added to kill power to the amber when the white comes on. Above is a video showing this, and attached is a PDF showing an example also.
 

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Yet again not to bash KC but. For a 600+$ light one would think you can run a .3 amp amber or whatever and a 6.7 amp white whatever at the same time. That's about 7 amps x 2 on a most common 40 amp ckt (switched). Just saying guys.....
 

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That’s actually a great question! @KC HiLiTES is there a reason both can’t be in at once?
Yet again not to bash KC but. For a 600+$ light one would think you can run a .3 amp amber or whatever and a 6.7 amp white whatever at the same time. That's about 7 amps x 2 on a most common 40 amp ckt (switched). Just saying guys.....
The amps draw wasn't the issue. The circuits can handle it. The Amber LED could burn out on the board if it was left on at the same time as the main white LEDs over time.

BUT...

I was just notified that this has been resolved in the latest revision of the Flex Era line. It was only an issue with the first launch of the FlexEra 3 and 4. So if you recently received a FE4, it will be fine. It is also a brighter Amber LED than the first launch Amber LED.
 
 



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