SH556JL

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WOW! looks awesome! I've searched around here as well as youtube, but couldn't find much installation details for our JL. Do you have any particular helpful resources? Mind sharing?
Seems everyone recommends a good hogring plier, there are so many choices on Amazon and I have no idea what would be good/helpful for this project. Would the bended one at 45 degree make this job easier?
Also any tips on removing that center console to install the switches?
Thanks you SO much!
Any of the red handle ones will work, it’s basically standard issue. I done way more seats then I care to admit to with them. The bent 45 degree pictured above, at that angle seems more annoying to me then anything. I recommend sticking with standard galvanized hog rings and a good set of dykes. If this is your first installation, you may not get the depth evenly at the seems and will need to cut the hog rings. Stainless steel would need to bend them to be removed.

If you want the Snap On of hog ring pliers, look into C.S. Osborne. But it isn’t needed for a one off job. I also like to sit the skins out in the hot sun before install.
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zyt

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The center console is fairly easy to remove, there are only a few bolts and the whole thing lifts out. When I did mind, I removed the seats first doing the leather, then did the console for the heated seat wiring which was easier, then reinstalled the seats. You’ll need to loosen the shifter boot too.

The smallest hog ring plier is the best, makes getting into small spaces easier. One trick - if you’re having a hard time getting a tight fit in an area, grab a zip tie, cinch it down, then use the hog ring. Also, start with the center of the seat first, then work outward.

Also, if you have a steamer, you can use this to ease install with the leather as this softens it a bit. Absent a steamer, put a tiny bit of hot water on a towel and rub the leather.
Super helpful. Thank you so much. Your post gives me a lot of confidence to do this project myself. How did you wire up the power and ground for the heated seat?
 

Whaler27

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Anyone have these installed?
I have the Katzkin leather in my Jeep. It’s my fifth set of Katzkin, but the first set in a Jeep. I replaced the worn leather in one super duty truck, one Ram truck, one Tundra, and my wife’s like new 2005 mustang GT (after I sat in her driver’s seat with a screwdriver in my back pocket…) :facepalm:

I‘m not fond of the quilted look, so I never ordered that. I also passed on the perforated leather, because the seats are virtually impossible to clean if you ever spill a drink and the liquid moves into the pores. Ask me how I know. :facepalm:
 

zyt

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Any of the red handle ones will work, it’s basically standard issue. I done way more seats then I care to admit to with them. The bent 45 degree pictured above, at that angle seems more annoying to me then anything. I recommend sticking with standard galvanized hog rings and a good set of dykes. If this is your first installation, you may not get the depth evenly at the seems and will need to cut the hog rings. Stainless steel would need to bend them to be removed.

If you want the Snap On of hog ring pliers, look into C.S. Osborne. But it isn’t needed for a one off job. I also like to sit the skins out in the hot sun before install.
Thank you for the feedback. I want to make sure I have proper tools before taking my seats out :)
I will be sure to pay extra attention at the seems and most importantly take my time.
 

CalPolyDM

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Super helpful. Thank you so much. Your post gives me a lot of confidence to do this project myself. How did you wire up the power and ground for the heated seat?
Can’t remember if I ran the ground to the factory ground under the console or back to the blue sea box by the battery, you’ll have to look to see if they want it to the battery or chassis. The pic below is from when I installed the dynamite and subs, but you can see the factory ground below the e-brake. The power was run to my block up by the battery. I used to be into boating, decided to use a marine fuse block from blue sea systems for my additional power connections.

5D799981-141B-47C1-AA84-7A54580211D2.jpeg


5B6D14FE-0D27-47FB-8E98-02CF7007EF85.jpeg
 

zyt

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I got all 5 headrests done last week and completed the 40% rear seat today. It really wasn't that bad. Patience is the key and also have a clear expectation that it will be a time consuming project. I don't want to do everything in one day, so I am purposely spreading this across multiple weeks and work on it whenever I have a couple hours of free time.
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Now need to work on some wrinkles on the side.
The seat release cover gave me a lot issues, I end up broking 2 clips but still couldn't get the last one out. I managed to work around it. Let's how long it would hold out. Anyone has suggestions on how to properly remove it?
 

oceanblue2019

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Can’t remember if I ran the ground to the factory ground under the console or back to the blue sea box by the battery, you’ll have to look to see if they want it to the battery or chassis. The pic below is from when I installed the dynamite and subs, but you can see the factory ground below the e-brake. The power was run to my block up by the battery. I used to be into boating, decided to use a marine fuse block from blue sea systems for my additional power connections.

5D799981-141B-47C1-AA84-7A54580211D2.jpeg


5B6D14FE-0D27-47FB-8E98-02CF7007EF85.jpeg
You do realize those fuse blocks are rated at 100A max for all circuits, and that input cable appears sized to carry far more than that?
 

TheRaven

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You do realize those fuse blocks are rated at 100A max for all circuits, and that input cable appears sized to carry far more than that?
There's no problem with that. Blocks should be sized for max draw, not max rating. Just like the breaker panel in your house - it's probably rated for 200A, but if you sum up the total ratings of all the breakers currently in use, you'll get a number closer to 400A.

A lot of circuits in 12V auto applications draw less than an amp, but will still be wired and fused for 5A...so you could have four circuits with a summed rating of 20A that actually draw a total of 0.8A.
 

Coolbaldguy

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Can anyone comment on the comfort of the seat covers? I have a 2019 Rubicon 2 door and the factory cloth seats with heat. The factory seats are not soft enough for my liking, and the lack of lumbar support on the passenger side makes my DW not want to go on long rides. I realize comfort is subjective and everyone is shaped differently, but have any of you done this upgrade strictly for the comfort factor? One last question, how do these covers affect the side impact air bad located in the backrest?
 
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