Just checked catch can and Wow!!!

[offcamber]

@PowerGuy

You'll learn .... Yup, there are a lot of mods you sure as hell should remove before a trip to the dealership.

SURE, you can leave them on. You will figure it out.... I have been there done that and know the drill, so to speak.

Yes, much depends on the dealer and such but when you have an issue, the first thing the dealer is going to do is cry foul ..... that the mod was the cause and FCA is........

.

You just need a relationship with your dealer. Stick with one service advisor. Find out what kind of liquor he likes or cigars, whatever. Every once in a while bring him a bottle or a few cigars. Goes a looonggg way towards making sure you are taken care of. I've had bent tie rods replaced under warranty. My WJ was on longarms on 35's and I never had a single issue getting any work done under warranty. I've had probably 8 brand new jeeps over the years, modded all of them and never had a single issue because of a mod. Hell our 2014 Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel is tuned with an EGR delete and it still goes in for warranty work...

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[Zazoh]

I don’t watch LiteBrite after their ‘Let’s get lit for the holidays’ video. Not my style. But I’ll take you at your word on the result.

I can relate. Quit watching when the whole episode was buggy’s being driven by drunk dudes rolling over.

 

[WXman]

I think one big issue that hasn't been addressed in this thread is the quality of the oil. Chrysler recommends a 0-20W oil by Pennzoil. Me personally, I would stay away from parafin (wax) based oils like Pennzoil and go fully synthetic like Mobil 1. Any parafin based oils will cause a brownish buildup on the metal surfaces.

I was under the impression that parafin based oils went out of style a LONG time ago. There are no name brand synthetic oils that are using parafin stocks now. At least, that's what I've been told.

 

[pablo_max3045]

I was under the impression that parafin based oils went out of style a LONG time ago. There are no name brand synthetic oils that are using parafin stocks now. At least, that's what I've been told.

As I understand it, there is no such thing as paraffin based oil as such. The wax is simply a byproduct of crude oil. The oil industry has had methods for a long, long time to remove waxes from consumer grade engine oils. Is there wax in none synthetic oil? Yup. However, the amount is so low in ppm, that it will not have an effect. Certainly not enough to cause the level of buildup which people try to pin to it.

The user manual does allow for full synthetic in the 3.6 and seems to require it's use for the 2.0T. Assuming you pick an oil which meets the referenced standards, you are fine. If not, then the manual also explicitly states that damage caused is not covered under warranty.

Just use what's in the manual and be done with it.

 

[TXJeepScientist]

I was under the impression that parafin based oils went out of style a LONG time ago. There are no name brand synthetic oils that are using parafin stocks now. At least, that's what I've been told.

A lot of companies may have, but I would still be wary of regular and synthetic blends.

 

[CoolTech]

How much oil is your engine using between oil change intervals? I suspect that this amount is VERY small, perhaps not even measurable? Anyway, for the fun of it, let's do some math....

Let's say that a given Wrangler uses 1/4 quart of oil over a 7500mi oil change interval. Further, let's assume avg fuel mileage over the same interval is 16mpg. 7,500 miles at 16mpg says that you consume 469 gallons of fuel. 469 gallons = 7504 cups. So, for each 7504 cups of fuel, the engine also ingests 1/4 quart (1 cup) of oil. 1/7504 = 0.0001332. That means if we look at the composition of combustion (on average), .013% of it is stuff you would prefer not to have. Isn't that a don't care? But what if your Wrangler is consuming 1/2 quart between intervals? Still a very, very, minuscule amount going through the engine.

 

[JEEPIDON]

The 3.6L is one of the few engines that doesn't burn ANY oil between changes. It's extremely easy on oil. Heck, after an oil change it takes a couple thousand miles before my oil even loses it's "honey" color. Which means that the EGR system in stock form is very efficient and is doing what it's designed to do. I'll leave mine as-is.

Sure, you can put a device in line to catch oil. You could also put a device in line to catch coolant. Or washer fluid. But why?

To catch coolant the vehicles come with the overflow tank which does just that. Why catch washer fluid when it's designed to be pumped out and replaced? Your analogy makes little sense.

I've used catch cans for years and currently have 4 mopars with catch cans, all serviced by the dealer and never a mention of any issues with the catch can. A catch can does nothing more than be placed in line of the breather hose to burn...the can simply catches the "condensate" basically. The only effect it has is to help keep things cleaner....and yes over the years I've proved that the inside of the intake stays cleaner. Anything in an engine that is cleaner is usually better! You polish head ports so that air does not catch on the smallest casting imperfections so keeping the inside of the intake cleaner has a similar effect.

There is no appreciable miles per gallon increase...that's just justifying the cost in your head.
These are not necessary but common sense tells you that it's better for the engine.

I speak from experience not conjecture of non-owners and folks that just want to argue about everything. Sorry there is nothing to fill in your life other than to complain and offer questionable speculation.

 

[word302]

Not an advocate for it either.

On sending the oil back it depends. That oil was already in the system. Sending it back into the pan I wouldn’t think would make a difference. If there was any contaminates in their then all the oil will also have the contimates also. This is all assuming more contaminates weren’t picked after the PCV.

I disagree. What you're getting with blow by is nothing that I'd want to put back in the pan.

 

[Twistedfab]

I disagree. What you're getting with blow by is nothing that I'd want to put back in the pan.

Everything that blows by the rings goes into the oil. So it’s the same. In the pan It probably gets watered down by the large amount of oil. Now I would like to see if the catch can oil analysis vs oil pan analysis to see if they are very similar in things contained.

 

[ECHO]

Sooo.. After reading many threads on this I am still scratching my head, I see the logic behind the theory.. but; don't see the problem based on the logic given. If it was that much of issue, They would install them at the factory years ago

 

[VNT]

I have them on my Hemis, 5.7 Overland and 6.4 SRT Challenger. The 5.7 is driven in winter and the can catches a lot of moisture in the winter so has to be emptied every 3-4 weeks, driven 75 miles a day. They do catch the oil vapor and keep the TB;s cleaner. Other than having to empty them, they are a passive device. I would assume over many miles would reduce the deposits in the intake and on the valves. On the Challenger forums just about everyone runs them.

My dealer is cool, a couple tech actually saw mine and went and purchased them for their own trucks. So no big deal warranty wise. if I had an issue would simply remove it but I am good friends with the service manager, owner and a couple techs, so I don't get any BS on anything.

 

[Sierra]

Would this VOID any Warranty???

 

[nerubi]

Sooo.. After reading many threads on this I am still scratching my head, I see the logic behind the theory.. but; don't see the problem based on the logic given. If it was that much of issue, They would install them at the factory years ago

Problem with manufacturer installing them on all vehicles is they have to be emptied frequently and most people don't know anything about their cars and would never empty them or want to empty them. Surprisingly (if you listen to the advocates of cans), millions and millions of engines have long lives without them and no problems.

 

[nerubi]

To catch coolant the vehicles come with the overflow tank which does just that. Why catch washer fluid when it's designed to be pumped out and replaced? Your analogy makes little sense.

I've used catch cans for years and currently have 4 mopars with catch cans, all serviced by the dealer and never a mention of any issues with the catch can. A catch can does nothing more than be placed in line of the breather hose to burn...the can simply catches the "condensate" basically. The only effect it has is to help keep things cleaner....and yes over the years I've proved that the inside of the intake stays cleaner. Anything in an engine that is cleaner is usually better! You polish head ports so that air does not catch on the smallest casting imperfections so keeping the inside of the intake cleaner has a similar effect.

There is no appreciable miles per gallon increase...that's just justifying the cost in your head.
These are not necessary but common sense tells you that it's better for the engine.

I speak from experience not conjecture of non-owners and folks that just want to argue about everything. Sorry there is nothing to fill in your life other than to complain and offer questionable speculation.

How do you know if it kept the inside of the intakes were kept cleaner compared to the exact same vehicle in the exact same condition that was less clean? You can't. If you had a few hundred exact same cars under exact controlled conditions you could make a reasoned conclusion.

 

[JEEPIDON]

How do you know if it kept the inside of the intakes were kept cleaner compared to the exact same vehicle in the exact same condition that was less clean? You can't. If you had a few hundred exact same cars under exact controlled conditions you could make a reasoned conclusion.

Fair question! However, the premise of having an "exact" controlled scientific experiment is unreasonable. As I stated, the research and cost to provide an exacting environment would have a negative ROI, you're not talking a very expensive piece. However, here's one example how I arrived at my conclusion: In 2015 I purchased two new JK's with the 3.6 engine and my friend next door bought one also within days. At the time of purchase I installed a catch can (I think it was the Dodge Challenger Kit so I had to make a bracket) on mine. I did not on my wife's car. At about 30,000 miles, my wife had a valve problem and we had to pull the intake and left head. I couldn't believe how dirty the intake was with an oil residue. At the time I decided to pull my intake and see if the catch can made any difference....a perfect opportunity to examine jeeps bought at the same time, had 1,000 miles difference and driven about the same. My intake was like new compared to hers. So for the price of a few gaskets and time with two mechanics working in my maintenance department at the time, very little cost incurred. As I was doing this I asked my buddy next door if he mind if we pull his intake and take a look. He agreed and guess what....very similar to my wife's and he had about 4,000 miles less.

Now I agree that you are not comparing the same exact car two different ways but comparing the three was enough to convince me and my staff that looked at these that the catch can kept things cleaner ..... I didn't scientifically obtain clean or dirt content, just organoleptic review.
If you disagree with the conclusion, I respect that but I didn't conclude the catch can results by guessing.

Thanks for a stimulating comment!

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